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Hijacking but how is the chain tensioned? I guess it is a ebb but which type?

Same question for your Jones @mf

the "tapered" transition from the headtube to the cups is stunning!! love it

Terrific bike. Indeed looks like a good option to pick from the lot to start the day commuting ✌🏻

Yes, I requested to Jacek the paint to be RAL1002 (sand yellow), which in reality ils a lovely beige/very light brown. You might find more representative pictures than mine on the web 😊

Fully agree, played a couple of times, hell on earth already with 2x7mns 😂

Normally yes, they even send of someone intentionally sending the ball away after a whistle from the ref to prevent quick play usually, but maybe there are some adjustments to rules as well for olympics?
And from memory a final was 2 10mns periods before, now seems to be 2 7mns as per other games. Makes more sens as the game is brutal already lol

so much this

not really used to two-pice cranks like hollowtech, and I was wondering if there was any safe possibility to play a bit with chainline? For example let's say with a SG75 DD, would adding spacer each side allow to widen a bit the chainline without compromising the link between the left arm and the spindle? intuitively I would say it is not a good idea, but just wanted to have other opinions on it!

asked in the any question answered thread, but might be more relevant here:
Would anyone have a recommendation for a good silver tubeless ready rim in 650B with an inner width of 20-25mm (for 47 wide tire)?
So far only thought about Pacenti Brevet (I think they are tubeless ready from memory) but any other good option?

Very cool!! Out of pure curiosity, would you know the dubes diameter of the top tube, downtube and seat tube? And the width of the chainstays and seatstays?

Would anyone have a recommendation for a good silver tubeless ready rim in 650B with an inner width of 20-25mm (for 47 wide tire)?
So far only thought avout Pacenti Brevet (I think they are tubeless ready from memory) but any other good option?

think it's "Stolen garage" from Paris ; I think the reason from the name is the motto "Ride like it's stolen"

10,000 times yes!! excellent idea

Have you tried going to a shop to have them try to re-thread? I had a bike some time ago where I thought the threads were fucked as a bb installation went bad, lived with a threadless bb for a while that unscrewed a couple of time, got fed up took it to a shop they used a tap and said the threads were in perfect condition. They didn’t even charge for it, worth a try. Worst case scenario is they will charge a tenner maybe?
(Sorry if bb damage is different and my reply irrelevant)

Now qualifies better with the mudguards! Had to bend the stays on the front but thankfully they were long enough
Maybe an upgrade to dynamo hub and middleburn cranks next year ✌🏻

Can anyone that has a frame with Paragon Rocker dropouts or sliding dropouts and 12x142 on the rear measure the total width of the rear end at both extreme points?
Rough estimate from my side would be 142mm for the hub, then around 10mm each side for the rocker/sliding plates, then 10mm each side for actual dropouts so around 185mm give or take.
I wanted to have a bit more precise value to see if my plan to have a 385mm long chainstay bike with rocker or sliding dropout would be fine without any heel clearance issue

That’s a good point, that’s something I will check on my frameset today to see how much « room » I have

I have a single speed bike, steel frameset that take regular wheels with bolt-in 100m front and 130mm back (track rear dropouts) and have V-brake posts.
Toying with the idea of handing it to a framebuilder to have it converted to TA (12x100 front and 12x142 back), and disc brakes (post mount).

The fork has a unusual design, so should be either pretty straightforward or not possible to do at all, so let's leave it on the side for now).
What I struggle with figuring out is the rear end ; I would probably ask to replace the whole rear triangle to improve tyre clearance and convert to through axle, but it is the method for single speed chain tension that I have a hard time figuring out.
For me, there are the following choices:

• rocker dropouts, although almost not considerable because I need the brake caliper to be outside rear triangle above seatsay to avoid heel catch when pedalling (rear end is very short) even if it would be me preferred aesthetic design, unless there is a rocker dropout with caliper placement outside the rear triangle?
  
• sliding dropouts, which would be the best option probably for the caliper placement outside the rear triangle, but I like a bit less the aesthetic compared to rocker dropout
  
• fixed rear dropout (e.g. like syntace x-12 for example), placed at exact chainstay length for magic gear with the ratio I am using, with a potential derailleur hanger to add a tensioner if magic gear doesn't work, but seems like the less clever solution if magic gear doesn't work out and I would very much like to have no tensioner aesthetically
  
  

Not a fan of EBB as a solution, I don't see any other one.
I think the most reasonable would be sliding dropouts, even if not my first aesthetical choice.
Any opinions on this?
Edit: of course cost is also a factor, the lower the better as usual

Normally if drawing has been followed both should have 55mm rake 😊

Thank you 😊 still a couple tweaks to add but very satisfied!

Result has landed and been assembled ; still pending a test ride. A quick snap of the pair:

Just out of curiosity, what is the recommendation from on here on chainline acceptable « tolerance » for ss?
I currently have a ss with 47.5mm chainline front and back (theoretical at least), and my other wheelset is designed for 43.5mm chainline. Might use one or the other wheelset, still undecided, and unsure if it is worth changing bb if I change wheelset.

my feeling is that being within +/- 5mm of the front chainline would be ok for ss use but wondering what are the recommendations/habits of people here

That’s a valid point! So in the end as others mentioned by experience there shouldnt be any issue. Cheers

Probably a stupid idea, but what are the potential issues with mixing two different headsets, meaning lower part (cup+crown race) from brand A and upper part (cup+top+top cap) from brand B? Apart from the preload requirement that might be too different between the two to able to preload correctly?

It is for 1 1/8 straight external ahead headset, nothing particularly weird

cheers! still very much totally in love with it ; so much so that I requested Jacek to build another similar but geared with disc brakes :D