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Why incorrect? is it not the ERTRO system designation?

Huge thanks for the tip, used a ratchet socket key with an extender for disassembling all of the hose clips, went really well!
Starting to reassemble slowly (after office work hours so a bit slow), for now it is going well I haven't broke anything yet but I was amazed about the simplicity of some of the stuff, the radiator/expansion tank unit is literally held on the car with big rubber grommets and two bolts only, once the hoses are removed it takes literally thirty seconds to get out of the car.
Grateful to start working on a somewhat older/simpler car as I have the feeling more recent cars do not have huge room in the engine bay to work with

Thanks for the reply! not really anything to do with saving money as the first intention is to try understand better how it works (and why it is not working sometimes), being able to react on my own when there is something occuring and being able to repair.
All clamps/hoses were ordered directly from BMW online with the support of an exploded view of the cooling system (the website is very detailed and handy).
I believe there are only screw clamps so there should not be any crimping involved ; just for peace of mind and while I am at it I ordered also some of the small housings bolted to the block because I thought as I fresh up the system why not, will definitely be careful with the bolts during disassembly etc.
Made some research online before, have bought a RTA (french book for repairs, parts references etc.) and studied a bit but was pissed off when I got it back from the garage last time with same problem (coolant leak) than when I dropped it there (probably not their fault but still) and decided to take the leap and try to do it myself.
Will probably do it this week or next week

I am about to take a huge leap (for me at least) as I am about to start working on my car myself as I want to learn to fix and maintain it myself and really want to start learning about practical mechanics (I only know the theory for now if it makes sense).
The first thing I am about to do is replacing all the hoses and clamps (and some of the housings bolted to the block) of the cooling system on my E30 ; found an exploded view and ordered all of the relevant parts directly on BMW classic website (very useful by the way), and waiting for a jack and jackstands to arrive.
Just to know, it might be a dumb question, but is there any specific thing to know when fitting clamps and rubber hoses, like about tightness for example? I believe there shouldn't be too tight to damage the rubber of the hose, but how tight then?
I also assume that cleaning the surface on which the hoses fit is required, what can be used for that? Sandpaper, metallic brush (when in fitting is aluminium), etc.?
I will of course empty the coolant etc.
Any particular comment would be appreciated :) thanks in advance!

Not sure I understand correctly but with Outlook (which should be the platform to run office 365 e-mail I guess) at work we can select in an option the amount of e-mails downloaded with the date for example no e-mails further than two weeks ago

Ah, should have precised that it would need shipping to France as it is where I am based. Thanks anyway!

Might be interested in buying an All-City dropout if anyone have one laying around.

Probably in size small

Thanks!

EDIT:

Those sound some interesting (but hard to come by) options! thanks

Definitely, when I visited back in 2010 people stopped by in shops on a scooter leaving the key and their helmet on the machine, our guide left her purse on the panier of her bike parked outside while accompanying us inside a building, etc. We where absolutely stunned down here in France it is impossible to think of anything similar

Not sure it is the relevant place to ask, but what would be the options as an alternative to Brooklyn Machine Works frameset?
Not interested in the brand in particular or anything, just digging the look of "kind of" fixed gear fresstyle with a little less tire clearance if it makes sense

I think Jason Cammisa made either a post or a story (can't remember) with a grill comparison between an E30 and a current BMW - the above pictures might be closer to reality than one would think ahah

EDIT: https://www.instagram.com/p/ByajkktgvsA/

Discovered it only recently so I was able to binge watch it but really curious to see it finish!! The retropower series on Gordon Murray's Escort is also really really good but different

I have had a "similar" problem with my E30, suddenly one day the idle dropped down to almost stalling (annoying vibration etc.). Opened the hood and one of the air vacuum hose was disconnected and it is too old to stay in place so ziptied it for now and waiting for a new one from my local garage so might be worth checking vacuum hoses for a leak

@slothy & @hugo7 thanks that was I was most "worried" about, I think I came across Tiagra 4700 that offers rear derrailleur and flat bar shifter that should work for what I want I guess, thanks to both of you!

Sorry, probably dump question here, but I am building a bike for my girlfriend for cruising and riding together on short trips. Would the mix-and-match components below work together, or do I need to replace something?

• Crankset 10/11sp FSA VERO PRO Mono 40
  
• Rear derailleur Shimano 105 RD-5701-GS medium
  
• Shimano CS-HG500-10 Cassette 10-speed
  
• Mavic askium 10sp
  
• Shifter Shimano Deore SL-M6000
  

My knowledge is related to bearings used in automotive engine as idler pulleys so might not be relevant.
Not sure "press-fit" would be entirely adequate as I do not know the translation of the word I have for this, but I meant C3 is more for assembly that requires a machine press tool (hydraulic press, etc.) with important assembly force if it makes sense.
For bearing pressed by hand or with a "light tool" (hammer etc.), in my opinion C3 would not be necessary and with the application I thank a standard bearing should be perfectly fine

C3 if I am correct is the clearance advised for press-fit assembly in a metal parts, that way the clearance is reduced once assembled to a more acceptable value (e.g. in idlers with metal pulley).
If you managed to extract them with simple tool ("light" press-fit with hammer for example), I reckon the standard ones should be alright but @mdcc_tester will probably be more useful than me

ah - that is what I thought. Sorry then! Is it happening when cornering in both directions ore in one only?

Maybe some of the rubber bushings of the rear suspension are worn out or the shocks are blown causing this "springy" feeling?

I think when I will come back to discuss with the garage, I thought also to ask about a potential suspension components change (tie rod ends, ball joints, control arms etc.) alongside the rubber mounts replacement.
However regarding the shocks, I am not sure I would agree ; as I said, I do not want to lower the car, Bilstein B6 are designed to work at stock height with the same travel as the original damper, just stiffer.
In my point of view, shocks design (travel distance, etc.) and shocks stiffness are two different things and I think with this setup I could have a little stiffer shocks (i.e. better handling) without loosing the comfort and practicality of stock height setup (clearance of bumps, etc.)

thanks, my english needs some tinkering too I reckon!

Very kind for the offer for borrowing tools but I'm based in France so it might not be that easy haha.
I agree with the fact that I should buy the "generic" tools for maintenance (i.e. jack and stands at minimum) that way I could progress and learn to do some myself. This is also part of why I purchased the car as I thought on this type of car it is reasonable to think that some of the maintenance can be done by myself with a little bit of research.
From what I came across, changing shocks might be something within my reach with the proper tools but I will make more research first.
By the way, what does "tlc" in "the car is worth the tlc" means?

I am not sure I said it but of course my thinking was a suspension refresh on all four corners.
I mentioned shocks and suspension strut bearings but indeed there also might be other suspension components to look at which would make the bill climb even more.
As I said, I don't think the shocks are toasted or anything, but I am also aware that almost 30 y.o. shocks are obviously not ideal even if of relatively low mileage (if the mileage is true of course, that is another problem).
I do not want to lower or anything the car as I wanted to keep the original look - I am more leaning toward a "OEM" spec car with reasonable and coherent upgrades to make it not faster, but driving better if it makes any sense.
Car is a 1990 318i (E30), which is why I even if I pretty much have no competence in car mechanics, thought I could maybe pick up the right tools for the job (jack, jack stands, spring compressor, ball joint extractor), and source the parts/mount them myself and rely upon the garage only for rubber mounts and geometry/alignment (and check my work haha) since the car is a little more "mechanically accessible" than more recent ones

Essentially, I do not think my shocks are in a bad state at all, at least from "very basic" testing I did and from driving.
It was just the opportunity of being forced to perform alignments etc. again that raised the wonder.

"Problem" is, garage estimated around 350€ for front suspension rubber mounts replacement (all included: parts, labour, alignment etc.).

When I searched for potential new shocks options (I thought if I go through changing the shocks I might as well pick good ones and slightly "upgraded") I found the Bilstein B6 set for around 500 euros. Plus suspension bearings, tools I do need (spring compressor, extractor for tie rods, etc.) so maybe 700€ for all parts and tools if I source them myself.
Parts might cost more from the garage, plus the labour so it could reach a really good amount of money.
Another solution would be to order the parts and tools myself and perform everything except the rubber mounts replacement, have it and alignment performed by the garage but my mechanical competence are very limited but I came across quite a few tutorials etc. online so I don't know.

Maybe a good idea to have different quotes from the garage (rubber mounts replacement and alignment only, rubber mounts/shocks/etc. replacement plus alignment, etc.) and compare with what I can do myself, or at least, what I think I can manage to do myself.

Thanks for the reply ; the car is my daily driver, and after last inspection in the garage they told me that the rubber mounts of the front suspension were starting to show signs of wear and will probably need a replacement in a more or less close future. The thing is, since they will need to drop the front suspension to replace them, I wondered if it would not be a good opportunity to have new shocks on all four corners since they will have to perform alignment etc. afterwards anyway.
However, the bill will start to rise pretty quicky with shocks+strut bearings+front suspension rubber mounts (and if the front is showing signs of wear, what about the rear? etc. etc.) and I am afraid of the thinking approach of "while I am here..." haha