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Had received a pair of plastic SKS bluemels with the rear bent around the chainstay bridge mounting point, and the website is sending out another part. Would it be possible to re-shape the damaged ones with a heat gun or something similar or is it impossible? Would be nice as it would mean two pair for the price of one

Looking for ideas to replace my tires since I had a huge puncture today (branch went straight through the tire).
Specs wanted if it exists:

• 650x35B (or any big 33 wide 650B tire, 35 is the max so ideally the target),
  
• mostly for road (very very occasional light off-road)
  
• with "reasonable" pucture protection (i.e. not a marathon but still with protection)
  
• black or tanwall and ideally not too expensive (please do not recommend compass or anything similar)
  Current tire were Michelin Wild Run'r and despite some mixed reviews they were okay.
  If you have any recommendation please share!
  

Yes from 700, brakes are Tektro R559 with koolstop pads!

Came across this thread after a clean-up, time to recap current stable of my builds:

1. Yellow 650B conversion
   

2. Green Road fixed
   

3. Weird ass parts bin special retro MTB fixed
   

4. Girlfriend's 1x
   

I thought it would be a good way to illustrate but if it is better that way, I think I could indeed lift the back if I apply the front. Will test.
Anyway, thanks for the answer, indeed it was because it is described as almost nonfunctional that I was a bit surprised!

Just for my personal knowledge:
When using a short reach caliper, it is better to have a "road" cable pull to avoid (in theory) pulling to much cable and bottoming out the lever before applying pressure to the rim correct?
So when using a longer reach caliper, supposedly having more cable pull i.e. an MTB should be better?
It works for the use I have it for but it is just to try and understand

That is what I read indeed, but having used it I can confirm you that it is functioning with what appears to me to be adequate force because I was able to lock the rear wheel anytime and without particular trouble/effort.
That is why I raises the question here because I can't seem to find a correlation between what I read and what I experienced, which is causing my mind some troubles haha

That is what I also suspect, what was making me think is that I thought V-brake levers were not supposed to work with caliper brakes (which is then the current set-up on my gf bike and which is working totally fine). Nevermind, thanks for pointing towards the FL740!

A bit of questioning this morning.
I have a set of Tektro CL740 installed on my gf's bike associated with Tektro R539 calipers.
Previously I used these levers on my own bike with Shimano 105 calipers also.

Did not notice anything odd at all ; however planning on changing the brakes on a family bike, I was looking at these levers because I like their look and feel, and came across something odd:

• On the french website that I bought from those I have, they are advertised as caliper/canti levers
  
• on bike24, they are advertised as V-brake levers
  
• on Tektro website, they are advertised as "linear pull brake levers" (i.e. V-brakes if I am correct)
  
• on the same Tektro website page, the installation instruction linked is for caliper or canti brake lever
  
  

Since I already installed them and they seem to work fine with calipers, I do not have any problem in using them again, just wondered what was going on and also wanted to satisfy my curiosity.
Anyone came across these types of case?

requested some pictures of the inside of the rims, well they show quite a lot of balance weights ==> off they go! thanks for the tip ;)

Anyone ever used Eta Beta alloy wheels?
Currently having an eye on alpina-style Eta Beta wheels that apparently were made in 1983 and have been restored+repainted. Any advice on purchasing old allow wheels?

Yes me too, not a fan of the murex but it is very convenient with plate removability and it is in 26mm clamp which is perfect for compact bars. I have a SimWorks by Nitto stem on another bike that I love, might go for that or for a VO stem later but I agree with your point!

Frameset purchased from @Kalkhoff a few days ago - components waited a long times to find the right frame!

One problem to be aware of though, a lot of old french bikes have on the rear brake mount a vertical mount whereas today brakes mount with a bolt that go through horizontally (if it makes sense). Just in case you were planning SS with brakes or anything similar
EDIT: also quill stems on old french bikes are 22 mm diam (instead of traditional 22.2mm)
EDIT2: aaaand the threads will be in French standard (BB and headset), seatpost very small (diameters as low as 24, etc.) etc. etc. etc. you get the point

Honestly for MOT I can't say, we have a sticker on the windshield to guarantee validity of it etc. here, but for foreign car, no idea how it is supposed to work... if you can, doesn't cost much to print it and add it to the insurance certificate just in case I guess!
Well, our lovely France and the paperwork... no comment!

that is what I meant by "I do not know many people that carry them at all time", after a bit of thought I know probably at max two persons that carry a fire extinguisher.
And my dad was the only person I know that had a first aid kit in a car... because it was in it when he purchased it ha ha ha

I believe we are suppose to carry at all time (for french vehicles at least):

• insurance sticker on windshield
  
• insurance certificate
  
• MOT sticker on windshield (don't know how it works for a foreign cars)
  
• car registration certificate ("carte grise" in France)
  
• fluro vest + warning triangle
  
• bulb kit
  EDIT:
  
• test for alcohol level (but no fine if not present - stupid to mention it probably then)
  
• spare wheel (or kit for flat tire I believe)
  
  

Now that you mention it, first aid box and fire extinguisher might even be mandatory in France but I believe there is tolerance because I do not know many people that carry them at all time.

The beam deflectors is to regulate the difference of lights between right hand drive and left wheel drive cars (for my personal information)?

Being French, I doubt that in case you are stopped by the police for a control an electronic copy would be enough because here we are supposed to have the little green-paper square on the windshield at all time, as well as the paper from the insurance in the car at all time also.
Even if you might be perfectly square with insurance and all, might be a good idea to print it somewhere

Purchased a frame from @Kalkhoff, all questions answered, took additional pics on request with wheels and tires to see clearance, and on top of all he sent the frame (to France!) 2 days after payment. Frame well packed, protected, etc. Highly recommend!

100% agree and they are right to be intolerant on this front if it is a potential threat to air traffic control! thanks for the tip

On all countries? Did not know that! I am spot on at 108.00 which is reachable through standard radios of cars so I believe it is unlikely to be occupied by other things but who knows. Thanks for the tip - will have a look for another channel ; supposedly should be okay with the first channel available also at the other end (87.5 or something similar)

I have got this one https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32787177031.html and it runs really really well and it is dead cheap. I am in france though so not sure for UK stations to pick up best but I use the highest channel possible empty of any radio (108.00 in france) and it runs great.

Ah, think I misread the conversation above, I understand your point now haha sorry!

Why incorrect? is it not the ERTRO system designation?

Huge thanks for the tip, used a ratchet socket key with an extender for disassembling all of the hose clips, went really well!
Starting to reassemble slowly (after office work hours so a bit slow), for now it is going well I haven't broke anything yet but I was amazed about the simplicity of some of the stuff, the radiator/expansion tank unit is literally held on the car with big rubber grommets and two bolts only, once the hoses are removed it takes literally thirty seconds to get out of the car.
Grateful to start working on a somewhat older/simpler car as I have the feeling more recent cars do not have huge room in the engine bay to work with

Thanks for the reply! not really anything to do with saving money as the first intention is to try understand better how it works (and why it is not working sometimes), being able to react on my own when there is something occuring and being able to repair.
All clamps/hoses were ordered directly from BMW online with the support of an exploded view of the cooling system (the website is very detailed and handy).
I believe there are only screw clamps so there should not be any crimping involved ; just for peace of mind and while I am at it I ordered also some of the small housings bolted to the block because I thought as I fresh up the system why not, will definitely be careful with the bolts during disassembly etc.
Made some research online before, have bought a RTA (french book for repairs, parts references etc.) and studied a bit but was pissed off when I got it back from the garage last time with same problem (coolant leak) than when I dropped it there (probably not their fault but still) and decided to take the leap and try to do it myself.
Will probably do it this week or next week