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I think I asked already (but not 100% sure), anyone have good car-related podcasts in mind? I have been enjoying the Collecting Cars podcast width Lovett/Harris, I will try the Smoking Tire, but welcome for any recommendations!

there is indeed probably an explanation. most sensible one would be something is preventing the headset to operate 100% correctly (ovalized headtude, bad facing, misalignment, etc.); I just had limited tools or means to control what is wrong.
But if it rides okay and you won't go down a mountain with the bike full of luggage, I'd say live with it ha ha ha

Had a similar issue with a frame. Tried 2 different forks, 3 different headsets, and all the combinations of both components, never got rid of the tigh point on one side. head tube doesn't seem to be damaged or anything but I'm no expert.
Riding it as it is, not causing any significant problem, can ride it also no-handed (but feels not 100% stable to be fair), but never understood the cause and drove me crazy

Looking for a black chris King headset, 1" threaded (Gripnut or 2Nut indifferently).

Preferably black writing, not worried about cosmetic condition as long as it is 100% mechanically good.

Shoot me a PM if you have one!

Hmmm I see didn't think of that one, that could be quite neat and that's a great idea! I'll see if I can propose to framebuilding company or see what they suggest. Thanks!

Yes that is a completely stupid design IMO as it is "destructive" but it is like it is.
Hmm interesting idea, post is 26.0 so maybe with a 25.4 seatpost, that leaves room for a shim of 0.3mm thickness.
Maybe even a stem shim (as 25.4 to 26 is quite common for stem/bars) could work to reinforce? Since the shim is already split in two parts that plays the role of the relief panel maybe?

Obviously having the frame modified would be much neater and much more robust (despite the paint destroy), I would prefer that, but I can't see how the framebuilder could slot the seattube and add a thread clamp thing considering the low amount of seat tube protruding of the top tube, Or maybe by adding a sleeve within that protrude higher and then do the slot/clamp thing?

Yes indeed, that is why I was a bit worried as the screw is "pinching" (not sure the term is correct, I think it would be a grub screw in english) directly the seatpost, I didn't want to destroy the seatpost (it leaves quite some marks as the seatpost is in aluminium and the screw in steel). Therefore the idea would be to have a less destructive design haha
This clamp design was vastly used here in France on MBK frames ; the one I have was a specific paintjob for a pro team back in the 90's (MBK Vetta or Chazal, can't remember exactly and I'm no expert) I've just changed the fork for a straight one
EDIT: base model name for this design was "MBK Mirage", and it has funny aspects like the top tube that changes shape towards seat tube.
With OG fork it kind of looked like that (in less better conditions)

Any recommended tire in 650B format, 35 mm width, that rolls acceptably and have decent puncture protection?
Currently have Michelin Wild Run'r but would like an upgrade ; have the Rivendells Nifty Swifty on another bike, but they are 34 mm wide and they "feel" a little small, but 35 is the limit.
What would anyone recommend? Purchase another set of Rivendells Nifty Swifty?

Not quite sure the place is the right one to ask, but i'll try my luck.
I have a frameset that have a clamp of the seatpost that probably not the most robust design:

There is a screw at the end of the top tube that lock the seatpost in place.
A closer look:

I was afraid to overtighten it, and at the end of a ride it slipped and the seatpost went down the seat tube (hopefully, it was at the end of the ride near my place). I re-set the height and tighten the screw quite a bit more, and it hasn't moved since (but I've not rode it much).

Is there any solution to this? I have a framebuilding company not far, so I'll probably ask them but as it is on appointment only and with a 45mn drive, I reckoned it was interesting to ask on here before.

What would be the potential solutions to have a better seatpost holding solution?
Change the complete seat tube (but would be a pain I believe since it go through the top tube)?
Manufacture a seatpost with an expander (like a stem)?
Buy a steel seatpost (if that's even a thing), tighten the screw hard and not worry about it?

Thanks in advance for any ideas!

A not so nice pic but I think it qualifies!

Maybe possible through people you know to hire a couple of professional removal mans "on the side" for a week-end job, pay them cash, they should be able to do the job in half an hour or so? I'm in France and my brother in law is a removal man, he does "on the side" jobs during weekends for people and has loads of demands!

Most shrill sounds are associated with belts, might be caused by different things: slippage due to exposure to liquids (coolant leaks, etc.), over or under-tension, etc. Cheapest option would be to change the accessory belt and see if it does make any difference.
In my opinion, water pump bearing failure is caused either by too old pump (and the rest of the components, e.g. the belts are likely to be as worn or break before that happen), or by incorrect belt tension so unlikely to be that. it could be the water pump that leaks and cause exposure of coolant on the belt so worth checking the water pump if possible. Alternator pulley is a "complex" part and not always sold separately from the alternator, but I'm not sure it is associated with failure usually so I would check the accessory belt first. What's the car/engine?

Errr no, was running it 10 speed (must have to read correctly next time, my bad)! Is there a noticeable difference in chain width between 10 and 11 speed making the use of 10sp chainring with 11sp chain impossible?
EDIT: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=135901 , considering Sram price, worth a try maybe?

Usually shop on Probikeshop (but i'm in France so I don't know if convenient for the UK),
Black
Silver
But your link seems to be the same!

Don't know the difference in quality with Sram but did not have any issue with Stronglight before (but I'm not riding thousands of miles), but it is affordable at least and they have an interesting range

Alternatively, you've got Stronglight that does make 110 bcd outer chainring on various tooth count (not sure up to 52) in either black or silver for around 20€ if it's of any help

Exactly! And I understand all the purist thing and everything, for example some of the complete modifications that alter a car and send it miles away from how it was when it went out of the factory, with total nonsense on performances and some technical aspects etc. But I am beginning to lean towards agreement with his mindset of if you will build something, you should build it as you want it and not how others tell you to.
Moreover, they are doing it with considerations to how it was done then (with the example of rear suspension setup), so it keeps the Porsche vibe.
I believe the fact that if there is a problem he can bring his car directly to its shop to fix it so it does help to not feel any culpability driving the car, but I must say he seem to drive like regardless of the value of the car (and push it a bit beyond limits haha) which is great.

I had quite a few pages to catch, came across your comment with the Rennsport 911 wtf loved the attitude of the guy! driving like he stole it ha ha ha

I was just installing the tester approved chain and noticed the weight difference with the chain on my 10 speed equipped bike and was wondering if there would be any resistance problem or anything. mostly curiosity! thanks for the answer

Might sound a bit odd, but running fixed with a 3/32" chain for now, a classic 7 speed chain ; wondered if using a 10 speed chain (the ones that are lighter like this one with a quick link would be alright?
I am not doing any skids as I have a brake on, and not using it as a track bike either so I am not putting it through important constrain, but I still climb a bit with it. Anyone tried this?

Considering newer cars are more and more causing the impression of not feeling anything (except if driving like a mad man), would the newer golf R (despite higher power) not be as "boring" as your MKVI Gti because it is more recent, has more driving aids and has AWD?

If your GTi is in perfect condition and paid for, your wife's car is upgraded, and you are not struggling right now without AWD (i.e. it would be nice to have but not mandatory), why not picking a totally separate/additional car, "fun oriented", older, with a shorter budget?

For example, old BMWs like the E30, E36, E46, or old Mercedes come in as 4 door (and are less searched for than 2doors), most are RWD even some of them with AWD, have lower power than current models but still reasonable, you get more involved and feel more than in newer cars (i.e. you can have more fun at lower speed, so lower danger to get caught and mostly to hurt yourself). I suspect compared to a newer golf R budget, buying a one in good nick and insuring/maintaining it should be really reasonable?

Will probably support fine in my case then! thanks for the help

recommended good price/quality rim brake 650B rim? Seen the Ryde Andra 40, any good? currently have the velocity atlas on one wheelset and pleased about it (despite nmsw)
EDIT: must be quite bombproof if possible, would be for a fixed wheelset with 32h

I am not sure they are completely the same category, but I believe the BLB / Squid tracklocross that is quite recently proposed would fall into the same category (and not too far pricewise), so not sure BLB is wanting to have frames that similar maybe?

Don't know if it helps, but Decathlon have a very interesting range of sunglasses for around 20 euros I think ; one of my mate bought a pair an is genuinely enthusiastic about these, might worth having a look if you have access to one nearby (we have lot down here in France)!

Previous Youtube shows recommendations from here based on shows I alreadt watched such as project Binky, Murray MK1 by retropower were quite good (homebuiltbyjeff, soupclassicmotoring, etc.).

Wondered if anyone had good cars podcast to recommend? Came across Collecting Cars podcast and quite like it, any similar recommendation?