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is it really still widely available? At the moment I looked for it on the different places I bought it before (here example of Bike24) which is why I asked if there was any recommended alternative, but I noted the Token ones so thanks :)

Hello @mjef, the two big pockets for tubes are designed for 700C tubes or 650B tubes? or both could work?

out of curiosity @gbj_tester I think I saw that my BB of choice BB-UN55 (that you recommended also) has been discontinued, what would be your recommendation?

when I searched I did not come across the Shimano documentation, but I wasn't looking for it either as the manufacturer of my crankset isn't Shimano. But as I've seen you mention quite a lot there is a ton of available doc by Shimano so should have thouht about it!

I'll try the thin grease film then, thanks too!

That was my thought. Many thanks!

Thanks, that is interesting.

I contacted the crankset manufacturer directly that handed me a document where it states "left arm (shim) 12 to 15Nm", I suspected it was for hollow BB and not square for the mention of left arm only and much lower torque compared to what I came across from Parktool or other sources (which seem similar to what you posted, around 35 Nm), but when I raised the interrogation on is it really 12 to 15 Nm, manufacturer did not answer back.
35 Nm seem to be a value that is recommended on several places so I guess this will have to do...!
thank you for the help

I am not sure I understand the answer, so maybe I did not formulate correctly but if anyone have an an idea of the recommended torque for the M8 bolts to install a crankset on a square taper BB, could they tell what is the recommended value?

Did not seem to have an answer on another thread so trying my luck here:
Does anyone have an idea of the recommended torque to install a crankset on a square taper BB?
Install it by feel usually but seem to have overtorqued the last one as crank arm is more engaged on one side so after a reference value for next installation.

What is the usual torque recommended to install a crankset on a square taper BB?
Came across 35 to 45 Nm from parktool spreadsheet, 35 Nm from Probikeshop recommendation, and some sources also for around 35 Nm.

Contacted the manufacturer directly that handed me a document where it states "left arm (shim) 12 to 15Nm", suspected it was for hollow BB and not square for the mention of left arm only and much lower torque compared to what I came across, but when I raised the interrogation they did not answer back.

So anyone got a usual torque recommendation for these? And please do not describe how you install it by feel, I am after a reference value because I am already doing it by feel but would like to install the next one properly as much as possible.

Anyone with technical advices such as @gbj_tester for example :)?

might not be the best place to ask, but thought it was the thread that have the best visibility for this.
I am trying to think about a potential modification of an existing geometry.

• frame 1 is head tube angle 75°, fork rake 45mm => trail 42mm and chainstay length + front distance =935mm
  
• frame 2 is head tube angle 73.5°, fork rake 54mm => trail 42mm and chainstay length + front distance=960mm
  
  

First proposition will be more compact (smaller wheelbase), but second will avoid much more toe overlap, but overall handling will feel the same because trail is identical, or am I completely wrong?
or is there any other element than trail to take into consideration for the bike handling and behavior?

calling the geometry experts and frame builders of the forum!

nothing matches when it is clean and close one to another on the workshop table but once assembled and ridden I am sure this won't be noticeable and will look cool nonetheless! stunning build

fork is inspired directly from here but sure is cool :)!

@_nico nice one!

Haha you're right! Apologies in advance for the shit pics due to bad phone.

Basic idea was a kind of "do-it-all" bike for my usage, which means 650B fixed with geometry based on a current 700C road frameset that I had converted to 650B fixed and felt comfortable with, wanted the same measurements, but some slight adjustments: mudguards eyelets, track dropouts but 130mm rear spacing for current WI hub (ENO eccentric, converted to standard now), raised bottom bracket.
Some cool features like segmented fork with initials inspired by one of @Hulsroy 's build, small Orlowski logos engraved, etc.

A new chain or some links (old one was a bit short, hacked an additional link but pin is very tight so not moving well) and stainless mudguards (will probably purchase GB) away being finished.

Just finished building a custom frame I had Jacek make, communication was good and everything went very well so I can't recommend you enough if you are currently considering Orlowski for your next custom frameset!

Was looking for threaded, and foud it since then, but thanks

late for the party but are these from this store?

Also considering it as a gift for a few mates and wondered how they were in terms of build quality and if they UV protect at all

will do definitely, I just wanted to know if anyone did/does something similar. thanks

During lockdown, I was using a no knead bread recipe, and usually let it rest around 18 hours at room temperature: prepared it around 3 PM and baked it next morning around 9 AM.
Due to being back at regular work hours, I can not let it rest for 18 hours as I am not at home. I will probably try, but would it provide a similar result to let it rest 12 hours at room temperature and then another 12 hours in the fridge and then bake it? This would make 24 hours in total but it would be much more convenient with work hours

Thanks for the feedback. Probably the best and cheapest solution to my case is to source an 6mm allen key and keeping it with the spare tube in the saddle bag haha.

Out of curiosity, why chosing to switch from QR to bolt? Is it because you can't tighten enough with QR, or purely for aero or weight reasons?

I have different things in my spare box, but no QR ha ha! I am based in France so with postage etc. depending on prices I find it could still be interesting, I will probably PM you at some stage.

I know it might sound weird to want to switch bolts to QR for fixed gear rear hub but I tend to carry my bike in the car and it does fit in the trunk only with both wheels removed

no indeed as long as it is enclosed cam and works properly. Any recommendation?

And before searching this, I found fixed review on quick release rear hub for fixed gear use. Is anyone using this set-up or have a recommendation on go for it/avoid it, like @gbj_tester ?

I have this Shimano 105 HB-R7000 front hub with traditional quick release. I have a different rear hub with bolt on, but I found a conversion kit so I would need just an individual quick release, similar to my front hub (with enclosed cam). Rear spacing is 130mm.
I searched quickly on Bike24 but I couldn't find the indivual quick release mechanism without the hub for the matching rear hub FH-R7000 ; dDoes anyone have a recommendation on where to find it?

EDIT: found it on SJS but it seems a bit harsh 25£, I guess I'll stay with my bolt on hub

Initially the grille for BMW was also a feature for cooling as it was supposed to direct airflow to help cooling the radiator I think, maybe it had to be made bigger as the engines are more powerful and with turbos etc. (thus running hotter)?

true, I recommend cleaning them with a rag and some spray glass cleaner, first time I did I was amazed by the amount of crap on the rag tbh wipers hold a lot of grime etc.
a good clean with this method @cyclotron3k and you'll be surprised how well the wipe again (and for the next pair of wiper if you replace, it takes only a couple of minutes to do but is worth it)