Search results for:

This is tremendous. Not a bad line on it.

Thanks for the tips. Making sure everything is nice and tight (but not, I hope, too tight) seems to have solved the problem.

It doesn't seem to be. Or at least, overtightening the headset slightly seems to have fixed the problem, so if one of the cups is loose then I'm not seeing it. But thanks for the pointer!

This seems to have done the trick. I've tightened the top race a bit more than usual, and it seems to be working, even with both locknuts still in place. Fingers crossed it doesn't just loosen itself again!

Huh! That's another interesting idea. The locknuts do both look like they belong with the headset, but it may be that someone before me has frankesteined it together.

I'll try overtightening the top race before tightening up the locknuts to see if that works (although it's hard to get it really tight enough without being able to use a spanner). If not, I'll try dropping a locknut. Thanks!

Ah, that's interesting. The canti hanger is taller than the washer that was originally on there, and maybe that means the top nut has fewer threads to grab onto. I'll try swapping it out for a thinner steel hanger.

Thanks!

Thanks for the tip. The play is still there if I turn the bars through 90 degrees and do the same test, which I think rules out any play in the brake. The wheel bearings also seem to be solid. Is there anything else it could be other than the headset?

Hi all - I have a threaded headset with a knurled top race and then two locknuts above it. There's a keyed canti hanger between the locknuts. When I grab the front brake and rock the bike forwards and back, I can feel the fork shifting slightly in the headset.

If I loosen the locknuts and tighten the top race by hand, the fork no longer rocks back and forth. If I then snug the bottom locknut up to the race and tighten the top locknut onto it, using a pair of c-wrenches, the play seems to creep back into the system. It's as if by tightening the locknuts the top race is being moved out of alignment or is otherwise deforming itself.

Has anyone else had this problem? Am I doing something wrong, or is the headset just not working properly? Thanks in advance!

Fair enough. I managed to get an old Weinmann for a fiver from my LBS, but I'll still need a cable hanger and new pads. This sort of thing is never as easy or as cheap as it could be!

I've got a similar problem with a Hamax child seat and I'm looking at using a centre pull brake caliper instead, which doesn't have the protruding arm. Dia Compe do some quite nice ones.

Edit: although looking again at your brake, even that might not give you enough clearance.

Maybe this? https://restrap.com/products/bumper-bar

Edit: although maybe not great with cantis.

Thanks!

Nice! What bars are those?

Thanks!

Nice! What's the fork?

Thanks. I pushed the levers up as far as I felt I could, but I'll maybe revisit next time I rewrap the bars.

It's not a great picture, but can I get a BDHU opinion on this?

Nice. Interested to see where you go, bdhu-wise, on the brifters.

I've used a longer bolt with a small spring between the bridge and the mudguard. The spring gives you a bit of room to push the mudguard forward when taking the wheel out.

This is lovely!

So I'm getting this right: bars should be down here, but hoods are okay?

GT Timberline with basket bag by @user71349. Really enjoying this bike! It'd be nice to get some klunker bars, but not sure I can justify the expense.

If this chart is right, you can get away with up to 50mm: https://images.app.goo.gl/J97oSj3bUgzJXJ769. I managed 2" tyres on an older bike (Schwalbe G-One Speeds on Mavic XM317s), and it was fine.

I don't make the rules (https://www.renehersecycles.com/aerodynamics-rando-vs-racer/)

It's aero, apparently (https://www.renehersecycles.com/a-rene-herse-for-the-outback/).