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It physically hurt to watch Raikkonen limp home to 2nd. An unbelievable drive, but there was no way he was going to win that race after Vettel fucked it on the first lap and he was left to right both mercs on his own.

Really solid drives from the Mercedes boys too, as much as I hate to see them running away with the championship.

Second dibs on the pair with the cleats pls

The title says it all really, I could do with a cycle computer with the ability to read maps/navigate for an upcoming trip.

I like the look of the Bolt because of the supposedly huge battery life compared to alternatives, but I'm not fussy. Heartrate/cadence/speed sensors would be nice but not having them isn't a dealbreaker tbh.

ta

Cheers for the explanation, now I understand why the thread immediately descended into memery haha

What's the story with this guy? Looking at his history he seems to be selling a constant stream of vaguely overpriced bikes that are 2-3 years old

Interested in the Hy/Rds and the TRP rotors if you're happy posting, not sure if I'm being a fool but I can only see a pic of tyres in your photos link?

Pretty tempted, interested if this is still about when you're back in September

This here is the main thing that turns me off doing an event like this. Close passes scare the shit out of me on normal roads, let alone thousands of kms into a multi-week race a long way from home.

Stay safe mate, do whatever you think you need to do.

It pains me that this frame is too small for me.. glws

Done. Pretty pleased with how it came out. I'm running it in fixed mode for the summer with accompanying shitty components, and once I've got a bit more money I intend to build a nice wheelset and get some old campagnolo derailleurs

Beautiful

Just finishing off the taiga green. It always looks weirdly light in the shade compared to how it looks in sunlight. I'll leave that to harden up for a few days, mask up the head and seat tubes, and do the rest of the frame in Chamonix white.

Can't decide whether or not to line the lugs in dark green like I did with the forks. Looks a bit naff up close.

That thread is nuts! It's a small world

Cheers man, good to know that there are more people out there who aren't obsessed with overly restoring stuff. I see it all the time with classic cars that have the soul ripped out of them by making them better than new, it breaks my heart.

Regarding that thread, I know my bike is newer than that as it's got a Worksop badge, So it's basically a Carlton/Raleigh. The frame number is Bxxxx (I can't remember the numbers off the top of my head), and I couldn't match it to any frame numbering conventions that I could find for Sun/Raleigh/Carlton. So it's age has remained a mystery!

Cheers guys - I'm aiming to be done by the end of the month so I'll post moar pics then

A close-up to show that the paint is far from perfect

Proper update: sent to frame to Argos, they brazed on a new seat clamp and re-tracked the slightly wonky rear end. Sorted.

Onto the painting. I've decided to paint it myself with the intention of making the bike look "old". I'm using old cellulose BMW paint to get that flatter look that old paint has, and I'm deliberately not being too fussy with my spray painting. If I get wrinkling, I just flat it off and the resulting blemish becomes patina.

I've just finished the forks and I'm pretty pleased with them. My colours of choice may be divisive...

I think I'll pass then cheers!

I'm interested in the cranks but do they work with a standard crank puller? I remember reading somewhere that TA cranks had a weird proprietary thread like old stronglight cranks.

Don't torture yourself mate, try this stuff. To be honest, I think the people who hate nitromors etc are just used to how paint strippers used to be and don't have the patience for the modern stuff. I've stripped 2 bikes down to bare metal with this stuff. It's slow, but it's infinitely quicker and easier than dry sanding and inhaling all that sweet sweet paint dust.

Just give the paint a quick skim over with a rough grit to break up the surface, and then slather this shit on. Repeat each time it absorbs, then scrape the paint off with a knife. If you're patient and give it a good few hours to absorb, the paint will peel straight off.

Agreed, but this particular specimen is very beaten up. I bought the full group off some guy in Bristol for £100 after he'd used it on a commuter since new. It's woeful compared to the 5800 on my CAAD 8.

Cheers! I'm rather proud of it.

I've been running it with 33s because it gives me mental mud clearance, but I reckon you could go up to 45s for drier riding. Maybe even 50s if I put on 650B/26" wheels.

Joining the club. Picked up this frameset for a ridiculous price over the winter as a Christmas present for myself. Currently running it with shitty 10 speed 105 and cheap wheels as I'm a poor student, but in the long run I aim to upgrade virtually everything on the bike.

It's my first CX bike and probably the most fun to ride of any bike that I own. People do a double-take when I ride past down the local MTB trails on what looks like a Look road bike :P

Mini update: checked the frame into Argos, they're going to fix the ovalised seat tube, grind off the mangled seat clamp and braze a new one solid one onto the lug that should hopefully stop the problem from happening again.

With paintwork etc, what I'm going to do is clearcoat the frame and run it as a ratty fixed gear pub bike for the summer to see how I like it. After that once I've got some money and I'll set about properly restoring it.

I'll post pics of the repairs when I've got the frame back in a few weeks time!

Silvabronz in Alton, they'll electroplate virtually anything. I say they're cheap, I just know that they're cheaper than some of the insane quotes that I've seen from frame builders for chrome work. I intend to get a quote from them for re-doing the stays and forks and let you know what it comes to.