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Wow, not much of a fork crown there...
I always thought that DA crank and BB was the duck's guts, with the hollow forgings and the needle bearings, but the set I have isn't even anodised; it's just poxy old clearcoat! WTF Shimano.
Hey, why does it look like a steel copy of an old Cannondale?
...Hey hey, doesn't that pair of Gatorskins demote it to GBP?
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very pricy
Cheaper than replacing a steerer...
And even if you've got 1" threadless, I doubt there's a 31.8 stem you won't need a shim for.
Looks fine on aluminium, but yeah, pushing it on steel... But if that's what you're doing, this is the thread you'll be looking at.
The Thomson X2 is kinda flush, but pretty bulky- it's not a suggestion, this pic is just to illustrate a 9/8" stem on a 1" steerer...
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Sounds like you've just ridden shit or badly set up discs, hydraulics
are pretty much fit and forget. If you're just doing roady/fixie shit
then a good rim brake is plenty good enough, just not as good.No, I don't have any bikes with discs. Worked on plenty as a mechanic though, during their introduction to road bikes. Some of what I witnessed would've been down to teething issues, but the rest just goes with discs.
Some folks will never experience a single issue for sure, but when you do get an issue it can be a proper PITA, unlike with rim brakes where just about any drama is a piece of piss to sort, if dramas with rim brakes were even a thing.
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I honestly think that thinness is something that generates a lot of noise in the comments sections but probably doesn't affect overall sales all that much.
Seems weird to me... If I wear an ordinary watch I'm often annoyed by it interacting with my sleeve; I'd've thought that would be a common experience that would have a lot of folks looking for stuff on the thinner side, but apparently not... Although for what it's worth, this regularly gets compliments when I wear it. (6.5mm, and the non-chrono Skin is 4mm!)
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Not into discs at all, despite their advantages. Do not like. Don't like squeals, sensitivity to contamination, hydraulic hassles or constant cable adjustment (although hybrid is a great compromise on that score), pad rub at the drop of a hat, otherwise unnecessary and asymmetric frameset reinforcement, front wheel dish and minimum 24h, fugly rotors and hydro levers.
That's a longer list of cons than consumable rims, limited wet braking and possibly inferior modulation, although those are admittedly bigger cons. I like the purity, but not an absolutist since I'm down with Di2.
And yeah, not interested in QRs, but allen head or anti theft skewers are a lovely way to secure a wheel (even though I do feel it's a bit light-on).
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Not so sure about that; while through axles are a thing because discs, ye olde QR interface is a bit on the undercooked side.
When folks talk about how a road bike handles, they might say stuff like, 'the tapered steerer makes it a more confident descender than the previous model' or whatever - which is about having flex where it's intended and rigidity where it isn't - controlled movement.
The QR interface became a thing when everything involved was made of steel. Like HG splines, I question whether moving away from steel is appropriate for that interface, or rather, if moving away from steel is a given, whether you should continue with that interface.
Sure, it's a relatively tiny improvement I'm talking for a whole lot of faff and incompatibility, but if it wasn't for that lock-in issue, IMO it'd be a no-brainer like the countersunk pedal interface Jobst Brandt advocated (which also never got anywhere despite actually having an upgrade path).
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Whoah 😃