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Had exactly the same sounding issue, a lonnnnng time ago on a brand new Cannondale. Nasty cracking sound, bolts loosening, really annoying. Cannondale mechs at a bike meet offered to swap the cranks out and - problem instantly solved. The tiny amount of damage on the splines where they weren't precisely compatible with the BB was the culprit, as they couldn't meet-up snuggly when tightened in.
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Ok, have a pretty good condition pair of these, as follows:
- 120 / 126OLN (had them sat on a 126OLN frame but not used)
- Hollow axles, flip/flop hub
- All threads excellent, bearings likewise
- Rear weights 1208g, front is 1142g
- Both look like they've not been braked, surfaces are really good
- Bit of surface tarnish to spokes but they're still black, see pics, but not to rims or hubs and no scratches here
- Rim tape in great condition as well.
Bought them for a fixed-wheel project but never used, so would like to sell - £70+p&p (or maybe deliver, depends how near to Reading you are); and do let me know if I'm wayyyy out on the price :-).
Or... swap em.
Looking for a set of road bike wheels with QR's. Frame is a c.1983 126OLN rear but would be able to cold-set to take 130's. Maybe some Mavic GP4's, but happy to consider things.
Thanks for viewing!
- 120 / 126OLN (had them sat on a 126OLN frame but not used)
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Right, so after a quick trip to ToolStation, £4.56 (for the turnbuckle and some threaded rod), assembled a 'tool' this morning that I've now unflattened the rim with. Marvelous. Well, almost. The wheel's still a bit shonky, despite my ministrations to true it (not really got the patience...), but it'll get me by until something better turns up. Had to replace a spoke as well.
Clearly this kind of thing's well beyond the bounds or warranty's, so would only ride on this myself and never sell it on.
You can see in the pics how I made an 'end' with some washes and a bit of old Ikea (from memory) curved bracket. This end sat on the hub. The hook end then wedged and tightened into the rim, which was a gift as the concave meant it sat snuggly in place.
Did all this with the wheel sat in a old fork, held in a vice.
Of course, it helps to have a. shed, b. with a old bench, c. with a big old vice, d. a pair of mole-grips, e. an old fork and f. some determination. Whichever, really pleased I had a go. And really pleased to have stumbled on the forum :-)
BTW, if anyone wants to a lend of my new 'Rim-Tru-Errr', just let me know. -
@schnelly and @gios78, appreciate the help. Will hopefully find a bargain at the Sheffield Cycle Jumble...
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...now with the details!
7005 ali ('Quattro Alu') inc. rear triangle (not the carbon version, sorry). c.50cm CTC, 130 OLN, all black, with matching carbon fork, Monoc pantographed seat post clamp, Cane Creek Aheadset, Prolite stem and some odd-bendy anatomic (if that's a thing?) size 44 cm bars (bit gummy from tape but otherwise looks clean.)
Actual sizing is:
A. Steering tube - 150mm
B. Drop from top of seat post stem to top of top tube - 45mm (NB: Measured with the seat post clamp removed, so dims are from the frame material)
C. Down tube - 500mm to the centre of the BB
D. Top of the rear mech bracket to the centre of the BB - 165mm (If that's a useful measurement!)
E. Width of the BB tube - 70mm (lateral width, if that makes sense?).
Virtual top tube is 540mm.Bolt-on front mech fitting, all external cable routing (inc. top gear cable ferrules.
BB shell stamped "MONOC 2(next no. obscured by the cable guide)941"Frame has scuffs and scratches but no dents I can see and it looks true. I've not ridden it, bought this without wheels or chain set. Just saying.
Bottom bracket removed by last owner, threads look ok but haven't tested them with anything.
Might make a cheap TT / second / Winter bike, it's quite light - frame comes in at a smidge under 1530g, fork at 612g.
Yours for £50. Could deliver between Reading-ish and Oxford-ish for free or will find out the cost of DHL-ing. Wrapped, boxed and ready to ship.
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Morning... Have one flat spot on an otherwise perfectly good(enough) Weinmann concave front wheel. It's off a c.1983 Raleigh Quasar, so have a matching black pair with Malliard hubs and a 6-speed helio-thingy freewheel.
Must have been quite a kerb-stop to make the dent, but was wondering if anyone had one of those tools that you put in between the hub and the rim and them 'untighten' to push the flat area back out?
Have seen the tool on google-searches but a. they're as rare as and b. all my LBS's tell me not to bother / they don't have one.
Would like to save the wheel set and get it back on the bike. Have advertised to find another wheel but again, no luck... -
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Have a pair of Wienmanns - see my ad - if you still need?