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Why not use externally fitted film?

Why should I have?
I honestly didn't know that was a thing, but I imagine it's more likely to become scratched or start to peel.

Why not get solar control glass?

If I was replacing all the units, I may have done. But that would have nearly doubled the cost of the units. £81 to £155

I only planned to replace one out of four units. However with that one cracked, it's now going to be two.

It was a double. Being an old window from 1990, the units were only 16mm thick (4mm low E / 9mm spacer /3mm toughened clear ) . It was the inner 4mm that had the film on that cracked.

https://www.abodewindowfilms.co.uk/product/light-reflective-silver-window-film

It definitely blocks a noticeable amount of light when comparing the windows with/without. However I don't think this will be an issue in practice

A warning to anyone considering fitting any solar film onto a Velux window with genuine velux glass. Velux units have a history with cracking for no reason except varying temperatures

This unit is about 5 years old and decided to crack across the top third of the unit, on a fairly sunny day, only 3 days after adding the film. I think its highly possible the extra heating of the glass caused the failure. However the film worked well to keep the failed inner pane in one piece.

Fortunately I was planning on replacing another 34 year old original unit and adding the film, so i had already ordered a non genuine unit with 4mm Toughened glass inside and out.

No qualms about adding the film again onto this non velux unit as it definitely makes a difference to the rooms

Disappointingly it returned, but a week without it was rather nice.

Kingston coastal defences

Having high pitched ringing for the past 3-4 years, which had recently become more and more unbearable. Tried sleeping with earphones playing different white noise tracks which somewhat helped sleeping.

But recently tried a couple of hypnosis tracks and OMFG this one seems to have been successful to some degree for me... listened Saturday lunch and had the rest of Saturday virtually free. Listened Sunday morning and again this morning 10pm Monday evening and it's been quite all day except for a squeak that lasted a few seconds!

https://youtu.be/RgOfFf6M3hs?si=XkGqnsNhayKPX833

About 5 minutes in, shows the previous days haul of scrap, from two of them fishing a short section of river!
https://youtu.be/Ud5TEL-dJ0w?si=VIfJjpzvDjOVRpFi

Somewhat inconveniently my employer, despite making me redundant, refused to consider releasing me from the non-compete clause in my contract - which gave me a first possible start date of 1st (well, probably 2nd) of September.

That's a shitty move. We don't want you, but we don't want anyone else to have you either! Effectively taking away your means of earning a living, which is probably unenforceable unless the clause is very specific and your looking at roles which directly compete with your old roll.

From what it looks like, they are keeping all the scrap and hopefully disposing of it responsibly rather than lobbing it back in at the end of the day.

@Jonny69
We watch Northhants magnet fishing and they used to regularly meet up with Peaky Dippers. The scrap gets collected by a scrap merchants and the profits went into a charity. Yes they find an occasional treasure and they do keep some stuff. Other bits have been returned to the owners, handed in to police, blown up by the bomb squad.

The tiny amount of history your losing VS the huge amount of trash cleaned up would be like bitching about a street sweeper pocketing 10p

Pop the plastic trim, measure the glass frame and buy a replacement. Slide new unit in.

There may be mastic and some spacers but it's not rocket science.

A glazer may have faster access to a replacement panel

Edit: @HatBeard

In this instance, the window looks to be externally glazed and there's no wedge gasket showing around the inside edge.

So the glass may be stuck down onto security tape (double sided foam tape). Or there may be security clips which will need cutting or a tool to release from inside once the beads are removed.

Pecos Hank.
Storm chasing without the theatrics and stupidity of some channels

https://youtu.be/RWXRDg5SpkQ?si=z2arkMhGRdcxZnsK

Dry it on tissue before capping and store with the wetted end downward.

It's just a salt stick, so will absorb any moisture and turn to mush given half a chance.

There's roll on styptic pens

Am I right in thinking that I can use just putty without beading?

https://www.slenderpane.com/slim-double-glazed-units/glazing-methods

Sealed units are priced per Square meter. However there's usually a minium charge equivalent to 0.3sqm. 8x Toughened low-u units will eating the economic viability.

Beside the thickness of the unit, you'll also need to allow for some way of sealing the unit into the frame. Be that putty or dry glazing tape.

Is there enough height to the bead/rebates to hide the spacer bar and sealant around the edge of a sealed unit?

If you can still get it at your local screwfix, the No Nonsense cleaner has been my go to. A light scrub with a paintbrush to get into any seams and corners then wipe off with a microfiber.

If there's only the new Essentials stuff, a bowl of hot soapy water will be just as good!

Besides the top cap being loose, what needs fixing with them. That apparently can't be fixed?

If you undo the two screws that are partly hidden by the edge of the door, the front cover can be slid across and removed. Use an Allen key to adjust the door across if required.

These are available in caramel colour, but not gold like yours were originally.
Hopefully enough measurements here to determine if they may be a good match

I don't recognise that particular shape. They may be obsolete.
However, these maybe based on yours with a slightly different shape.

Open the door and there will be a screw securing the cover onto the flag.
Let's have a look at the adjuster inside.

Given it’s both hot and cold, what else could it be? An airlock?

Twisted liner inside the hose to the shower head?

It looks like there's a parting line around the edge. I bet the inner plate rotates slightly to unlock it. There's at least 2 but probably 3 holes which may locate springy bits to stop it coming unlocked.

I've had several years of using a Muhle safety razor and been relatively happy with the swap from multi blade cartridges.

After seeing advert videos of the Henson razors I decided to give one a try. Went with the AL13. With the last of my usual blades fitted in it, the shave is a nicer experience, with less pulling and less nicks. I think a slightly closer shave too. Shave No3 was definitely better than I'm used to as the Muhle normally feels to be quite blunt by then.

Edit. Now gone
If anyone fancies the Muhle (wooden handled one), for the price of postage, it will save it being stashed away unused. I'll put in a 5 pack of RX blades

22.0g in, 22.1-22.2g out. But I don't think that tells me very much. The grinder can't retain grounds forever - there's only so much space inside, so on average once all the nooks and crannies are filled I'm always going to get 22.0g on average. Question is how much of the 22.1g that came out is from the previous coffee?

Questions are.
How accurate are the scales. Was that 22.00g in, or somewhere within the rounding up/down between 21.05 and 22.05

Does 0.5% to 1% deviation in weight actually matter when the beans aren't all identical, so the ratios of dust/skin/centre will be ever so slightly different with every scoop

Most units seem to be fairly standard 4mm thick glass on either side, so take 8mm off the total thickness and you've got the width of the spacer bar.

16mm, 20mm, 24mm overall thickness are historic standards and 28mm has been the thickest double glazed unit for the past 10-15 years at least.
4-8-4
4-12-4
4-16-4
4-20-4

Width and height measurements are edge to edge of the unit, including the spacer bar and edge sealant. So larger than the visible sight line size. Measuring from the bead/frame joint across to the bead/frame joint and subtracting 10mm to allow for frame packers, should save removing each unit to measure.

Some beads are very easy to remove and others can be a right pain. A sharp glazing chisel or knife (or 2) makes parting the beads easier.

If you order from a glazier, the units will be supplied as just that. A bare unit with no packaging. So factor in collecting without damaging them. If you measured it wrong or scratch it, it's yours.

The units are priced per Sqm and the price wil be depndent on the type of glass required.
Clear/Float (plain clear glass)
Low-U (generic low energy coating)
Pilkington KS (well known name brand low energy)
Patterned/obscure glass
Toughened options on the above
Small units will be charged as 0.3Sqm
Shapes, Georgian bar inserts and leadwork will add 25- 50% to the cost

Spacer bars between the glass used to be aluminium and were usually anodised silver or gold. More energy efficient plastic spacers (Swiss spacers) probably wont cost extra and are a better option unless you need a replacement to match an adjacent unit. The silver and gold options are a matt finish. Black Swiss blends in with the seals and looks better imo.

There's probably gaps around the pipework, or old holes through the wall if pipes have moved. Gap between wall and floor where skirting has been cut out to fit the cabinet.
Plugging them would be better, but more work moving the cabinet.

Over the distances involved, I doubt the flow rate needed by the machine would be near the limit of the 1/4" pipe.