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There's a special tool that would be handy for building up the wheel from the bead side but it's not essential. Once the nipples are on the spokes, a standard spoke wrench works fine for tensioning on the exposed square drive.
For the build up, I pushed the torx head into a piece of thin PVC tubing which enabled me to get the nipples through the rim and started. Or you could screw a spoke into the torx side a couple of threads to get it positioned.
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The 511 makes a nice stiff wheel. I've recently built a 20h front with the rim braked 511, intended for windy day duathlon use this winter. But its also going to live on the Paddy Wagon when I get the rear built.
A 23mm Conti GP4000 comes up to 25.6mm and handles cross or gusty winds really well. I can't comment on durability as I've only done 150km on it but it's a stiff rim which was flat and round out the box and the wheel hasn't needed any re-truieng after some pothole bashing. There no sign of the weld joint area, either visually or when trueing, on the brake track, so you would never find it with a disc rim.
Alloy prolock Squorx nipples and reinforcement washers are supplied. The nipples thread on quite a long way, so there's plenty of thread through the seat which should stop any breakages. Here's a DT 14mm brass nipple and 15mm squorx both fully threaded onto a spoke.
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Thanks Tom.
Yes I could have got a set of singlespeed cranks. Although looking on the transmission database thread showed the Shimano 600 cranks as a viable option.
So shimano 600 FC-6207 double chairing cranks, mounted onto a 103mm Token carbon BB. With a single velosport chairing as the outer ring, I've got a chain line of 41.60mm
259g lighter than the FSA cranks and BB. That's also going from 42t to 44t
Has anyone entered the ballot for the Hoka Highland Fling race. Or got a place on a relay team?