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Yeh I think I’m leaning towards the new updated version of the classic. Not quite as convenient as the Sage but I like the fact it seems to be build to near commercial standards - I tend to be hard on stuff so being overbuilt is always a bonus - and it’s going do everything I’ll ever need from a machine.

Plus I’m a huge fan of stuff that’s designed to be user serviceable / repairable.

I’ll be completely honest, I just want a machine that will pull a cracking double shot, I’m probably unlikely to be doing any crazy stuff with if. I mostly drink Americanos, but if I had a proper machine with a steam wand I’d definitely start trying my hand at some milk coffees.

I’ve also just noticed that Gaggia have just updated the ubiquitous ‘Classic’ model this year, the full set with the grinder and knock box is only £100 more than the Sage.. I’m guessing its got a good reputation for a reason, don’t know if the updated model is worth it over the previous model though, or if it’s been out long enough to be well proven.

I’ll have a look at 9barista, re: lever machines - if it were just me I’d consider it for sure, but it’s probably a bit too much aggro / effort for my other half and ideally I’d like her to be able to use whatever we buy as well. That is one thing that drew me toward the sage to start with.

Recommendations needed. My 30th is coming up and can’t think of anything I want / need more than a nice espresso maker (have dipped my toe with a cheap machine we got gifted, am now ready for a proper one).

I’ve been looking at the Sage Barista Express, looks like a decent machine with handy features.

Any other recommendations in the sub £500 category? Could be similar to the sage or just a ‘dumb’ espresso maker, I’m not decided one way or the other yet. Cheers!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152639344385

These are good, loads of adjustment, the only downside being because of the design the cage sits 5mm or so proud of where it would otherwise.

The best advice I’ve been given (although I’m yet to test it but it makes complete sense) is once you’ve seated the tyre and added sealant as you’ve done so far. Give the week a good shake and ideally a quick ride up the road and back to distribute the sealant around the tyre, then place the wheel horizontally on something like a bucket or a bowl that will allow it to lay perfectly level and let the sealant sit and get right into the bead all the way around the tyre, leave it for 30-60 minutes then flip it and repeat. I’ve been told - albeit only anecdotally - that this all but eliminates the usual ‘overnight loss of pressure’ tyre problems that sometimes occur.

I’ll be trying to the next time I set up a set of tubeless tyres - would be good to hear if anyone else has tried it.

It has been lacking purple.

This explains the hubs on the wheels I bought 😬

A bracket utilising the lower brake caliper mounting would be more permanent / less of an arse when removing the wheel, but possibly slightly less elegant.

Any idea of the width / length?

The shape looks quite similar to my preferred charge knife, just trying to gauge how similar it is.

put some more splatters on there in a second colour

+1 but it looks great regardless, nice work!

I did wonder that myself... if he did it pro-bono just to be able to make the video...

If not, you’d have to imagine given the man hours involved, what Hambini would have charged would be more than the ruddy frame’s worth..

Get a wall adapter with multiple USB’s, and maybe even a small dry bag or something so you can put your battery bank, computer and phone all in one thing and they can just plug one charger into the wall.

If you want a cheaper alternative check out the ‘velocharger’ (spa sell them here) I’ve got one and although I’ve not put it through the ringer, it seems well made and reliable. I spoke to the guy that designed them quite a bit before I bought it and he seemed very confident in it, he said they hadn’t had an failures at the time. I guess he’s got a vested interest but he was ‘just a guy’ as opposed to a company and seemed genuine and down to earth. As ever, YMMV.

It seems wahoo keep the mAh of their batteries very close to their chest.. but if we take the battery replacement kits for the Garmin 820 - which are 600 mAh - as a rough ballpark figure, a 10k battery pack should do upwards of 10 full charges.

Non-dynamo solutions are basically solar, which I’m not sure how good/viable it is or charging strategically at stops, which with a big enough battery Bank is probably do-able.

Had the ball end of a hex key snap off inside Thompson H3 bolt :(

What’s the best way to approach removal? Try drilling the ball end out first? Or just go for removing the whole bolt? If so how...

3W is pretty much standard for hub dynamos and is ample to power any front/rear light combo and in most cases (at average road speeds) a charger too. Some 1.5w models do exist (shimano make a 1.5w XT model) that will power lights only, the advantage being lower resistance.

The vast majority of dynamos/lights are built to be plug & play so you don't really have to worry too much about power outputs. Any light from supernova, B&M, exposure etc. should play nice with that hub, feel free to check first though.

@wildwest,roberts|953 pista,Type1
@Thrasher,ISEN logo,Type3
@velo101,something,Type2
@andyfallsoff, talbot, Type 4
@ThePeginator,SHUT UP|LEGS,Type3 (x3)

For around £500 you could get LB rims, plus some inexpensive hubs (bitex/novatec/miche) and double butted spokes. If you laced them yourself and got someone to tension/true them for you wouldn’t be far off that budget I wouldn’t have thought, it’s more effort though.

Anything shimano, you can get a set of hydro discs for buttons.

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/ Malcom does plenty of Kinlin stuff, drop him a line.

Edit- didn’t see how old that post was, and looks like Malcolm beat me to it.

See tubeless thread, but, generally tape that’s a few mm wider than the rim is ideal as you’ll lose some width where the tape dips into the well of the rim and you want it to come up the walls slightly.

You want this stuff: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162354590164

Same as Stans but a fraction of the price.

If I’m not mistaken 44mm external headset’s are generally for tapered forks (EC44/40), for 1-1/8” forks you use a ZS44/30 which doesn’t have the external cup as it isn’t needed.

If you want the external cup and to use a straight steerer you’ll need to use the EC44/40 cup - usually designated for tapered steerers - and a 1-1/8” to 1.5” crown race adapter (such as the Hope HS136)

Modern cordless stuff is completely self contained isn’t it? Just need the gun w/ battery and the appropriate nails.

Pm’d Re pizza rack.