-
-
-
I think the insert - whatever it is, riv nut or otherwise - has broken. If you screw a bolt into it, it rattles about.
Luckily my dads a mechanical engineer and general wizard with stuff like this so I'm sure he'll have a solution. I was just curious how you fixed yours as the info might come in handy when the time comes to sort mine out.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Wrist ache usually means a combination of bars too low & poor core strength meaning you're having to support your upper body with your arms and your wrists take the brunt. Saddles are designed to be level, if you're having to tilt it back to get comfy - something else is wrong.
I'd say most likely solution would be raise your bars, try that with your current saddle angle - you'll probably feel like you're going to fall off the back of it, then try it level, it will probably feel better.
-
-
Wheels? http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cosine-32mm-alloy-clincher-road-wheelset/
-deep, wide, light
-tubeless
-affordableI should definitely be getting commission from wiggle... The only reason I don't own these is because I bought other wheels just before they released these :(
-
I just wish they weren't so ruddy long. I'd probably have bought one by now but even the 50cm has a reach of nearly 400mm which is just fucking daft. Most bikes equivalent size have a reach in the ballpark of 375mm, they managed it with the TC1, size 50 has a TT of 515mm, reach of about 374mm. Shame they didn't get that right on the pre cursa.
-
This is true, to be honest, how many cheap wheels are crap these days though? Cheap usually just means slightly overbuilt and heavy. If you look at all shimano/fulcrum etc. cheap offerings, they're all relatively bombproof. I guess the main thing is if the build/tension is all over the place or the bearings just disintegrate.
First ever review, beginning of last year:
"For the money these wheels are great. Strong and versatile, they have withstood the punishment I have thrown at them these last 3 weeks. So far, I cannot fault them. The rims are made well, rear hub is almost silent and they roll well over the tarmac.
This weekend looks like it will be the first time I've used them in the dry, so I can safely say they perform well in wet conditions and even when cycling through flooded roads even when 6 inches deep. Also they are still true and that's after hitting various small pot-holes hidden by the water and when clipping stones and large bits of debris in the lanes.
A great choice if requiring a spare set or like me needed a new set for Winter training. As said, strong, versatile, light enough for my training bike and giving great performance. One other point, the Cosine label at the valve hole makes it quick to locate too. Fitted a set of Lifeline Essential road tyres (25c) also without any punctures to date. They have gone through the same conditions as the wheels.
Would be good to have some spares listed though like bearings etc." -
If it helps I believe at least one person in my club has them, ridden in all weathers and I'm pretty sure they've given them no trouble. Not exactly a thorough review I know but at £60... especially with Wiggles track record on customer service - if they do go wrong they probably just send you another pair!
Personally if I needed cheap wheels I'd definitely give them a go. I'm pretty sure even if they went wrong - as long as you hadn't obviously battered them - Wiggle would probably sort you out.
-
-
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cosine-24mm-alloy-clincher-road-wheelset/
-1/3 the price
-same depth, 1mm less internal width
-not tubeless
-100g heavier, give or takehttp://www.wiggle.co.uk/cosine-32mm-alloy-clincher-road-wheelset/
-deeper, very slightly narrower
-marginally cheaper
-tubeless
-over 300g lighter if the weights are to be believedTake your pick. If it's wider you want, something built with a Kinlin XR31t?
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Anyone bought any foakleys reecently? lost mine today! Best place to buy? or is it still the classic aliexpress.com and find the one that looks least likely to be a bag of shite?