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(Edit- did not look at time stamp when I wrote this reply, probably moot now!)

Not at all.

I’d you don’t need the big door there’s no reason not to. Just make sure you put some kind of membrane/dpm between the door and whatever you build as you don’t want condensation (which you may well get on the back of the door in winter, especially once you cover it and remove any ventilation) on the back of your stud wall. Plus it’s just a stud wall, if you decide you want the roller door back you can take it down.

The one thing I came here to say was insulate it! But sounds like you’re doing that. Obviously walls/ceiling is most important but you could do a floating floor very easily. Even 25mm PIR board with T&G floorboards on would make a hell of a difference.

These are the best kind of DIY projects. At some point I’ve got to build a climbing frame for the kids! Where did you get the hand/foot holds?

In some ways my biggest knowledge gap is where to start, had some advice to the tune of; get a property valuation, and get an estimate valuation with 2 added bedrooms from the same agents. Go to a couple of big all-in “loft” type companies and get some big quotes, take that to mortgage broker with a view to securing the funds for the conversion via a remortgage and then take said funds and go conversion ourselves, more or less the way you’ve done, get it shelled and watertight by the builders and book trades / do the rest ourselves. Does that sound realistic? Guessing as an architect you’ve got a fair bit of knowledge / experience of this sort of thing.

Keep up the good work!

That’s some fairly rapid progress, great work.

So you’re managing it all yourself and just booking trades to do the bits you haven’t really got the time to do yourself essentially? Any tips!?

We’re considering a loft conversion in the medium term and want to do a similar thing. Although it’ll probably involve re-roofing the place so we’ll have to get it shelled and then I can take over and do the fit out - much the same as you’re doing.

You'd have to be going some to overload a 13A socket if you're only running one tool at a time. Unless you're running a 2/3kw heater plus tools, then you could manage it fairly easily.

Easy to work out.

Current (Amps) = Watts of whatever you're powering / Voltage (nominally 230 in the UK, often closer to 240 but safer to use 230 for calcs)

e.g. a 3kw heater = 3000 Watts / 230 Volts = 13Amp

This is why you'll never see anything over 3kw with a domestic 13A plug on it, and why things like kettles and immersion heaters are very often 3kw, or close to it.

So if you had a 1500w table saw and a 1000w extractor, you'd still be comfortably under the 13A, but you might find the spike from the table saw starting up is enough to trip an MCB/RCBO.

Nice shed thread!

Are you thinking/planning to insulate? or are you going to see how it fares over winter and go from there? or is it not something you're worried about?

I'm a sound engineer for a living and got asked in a WhatsApp group the other day by a very prominent and well connected audio/comms tech.

"Anyone free for a one mic corporate job from Oct 10-26, message for more info"

My immediate thought was - sounds like an election campaign.

My advice, whilst you’re doing this, is make the loft hatch as big as you sensibly can.

Once you’ve got that space, believe me, You’ll find all sorts you want to store up there. Best case you’re able to store something that you otherwise wouldn’t have been able to, worst case you just make your life getting shit up/down a bit easier. Given that the hatch will (I presume) be a bit of ply/mdf cut to size you can make it any size you like.

Also, I don’t know what you’re overall plan is (and sorry if I’m teaching granny to suck eggs) but I would double up the timbers around the opening e.g if you’re framing it out with 4x2, double them so it’s effectively a 4x4. That opening takes a lot more stress that then rest of the ceiling.

Last thing! Don’t forget to account for trim (architrave probably in this case), where you’ve cut back the ceiling on the right of the last picture looks like it’s right upto the wall.

Motors are more efficient (as I understand brushless only draws what power it needs from the battery, brushed draws max power regardless). Because of this, the motors can be made more powerful and still achieve good battery life. In theory you get a more powerful tool AND the battery can last longer.

Plus no brushes to change! (Not that it’s generally an issue for us DIYers)

Bit of a dredge, but tuppence on saws is CORDLESS circular saw (go brushless if you can), 240v track saw.

Cordless for rough work / construction / when you need to cut something quickly or in an awkward / precarious place.

240v track saw because half the point of a track saw is dust extraction, if you’re spending out on track saw, spend £50-80 on a shop vac with power take off. If you’ve got a hose connected might as well just plug it in and start the vac every time you start the saw.

I’ve literally just had 6.5kw of panels, a solis inverter and 10kw of puredrive batteries installed. If you’ve got any burning questions I’ll do my best to answer them.

I’m reference to your actual question, when you say a “self heating battery”, is that the same as a “solar battery” - which to all intents and purposes is a hot water tank with an immersion heater in.

We already have a hot water tank with 2 immersion heaters, so I bought a box called a Solic - which basically takes any excess solar that you would otherwise be exporting to the grid, and instead diverts it to the immersion heater, giving you free hot water. So it basically turns our hot water tank into a “solar battery”, for £200. It certainly works, water has been noticeably more plentiful and red hot since installing!

Did you do a sip floor on your block piers? Or timber floor with sips on top? Presumably if you used a SIP floor you used timbers as joiners rather than splines?

Interesting about the gripfill! I’m not a fan of gripfill but I’ll do some more digging.

Glad to hear you had a good experience, I assume you had help installing the panels? Mine are all just big standard 8x4s and I’ll be doing all the “manufacturing” myself. They’re f*cking heavy though so install will be a 2 man job for sure.

Noted about the design side, I think I’ve already got that firmed up but I will definitely make sure it’s finalised before starting in earnest!

I’ll bullet point these, any answers would be appreciated!

• What kind of base/foundation did you go for? Would you do it again or different? (Realise this is pretty subjective based on location etc)

• What did you join the panels with in terms of adhesive? Seen everything from pu glue, foam, specialist sip mastics (in the states). PU glue seems to be the go to in the UK? Obviously the adhesive is crucial as it’s what really joins the panels and provides the air sealing.

• Have you had any problems? Either on install or long term? Seems the general consensus is sips are great if done right but crap if done badly.

• What would you do different, if anything?

• Any tips?

Sorry for the many questions! Any answers appreciated.

Thought I’d put this here in the first instance - apologies if it’s already been asked / answered, it’s a big thread and the search function shows nowt!

Question: has anyone on here built anything with sips? I have questions!

Bump price drop to £40?

Shimano XC5, EU42, VGC, boxed. Ended up buying the same in 43 and these have say unused for well over a year.

Don’t really know what the going rate is so £40 posted? Or I’m in London for work this week so make me a sensible offer if you can meet in central.

Price drop to £40

I’m convinced half the time they just get put about to rope people in and don’t even work..

Coolio thanks all.

I just checked and that code didn’t work with the model I ordered - it already had £90 off so I think that’s why. We tried a load of my wife’s NHS discount codes and they didn’t work either. Did get a 27” monitor for £85 though, down to £100 for buying it with the laptop and 15% off NHS discount. 👍🏻

Went for an Inspiron with an i5 they had an offer of.

I’m going to upgrade the storage immediately to save fading later transferring data, what’s the deal these days with windows? I presume I’ll have to create an installer usb key but then how do you verify windows, will it come with a code with the laptop?

I’m a Mac w*nker and it’s been so long since I’ve actually installed windows on a machine I’ve no idea how Microsoft deals with this anymore..

Wife needs a new laptop to replace ancient Sony.

It’s primarily for working from home, so office apps and lots of stuff running at once, but nothing taxing. It would be nice if it could do a bit of a photoshop as she’s into her photography too.

Any ideas? Was looking at Ryzen 3500 laptops?

Cheers, I’ll give them a look.

Thomson stem bolts.

Does anyone have any idea where you can buy them, ideally from a fasteners merchant rather than a bike shop, annoyingly they’re rather specific.

M3 HEX head X M5 x .8 THREAD X 18MM BOLTS

Also, any thoughts generally on car bike racks, tow bar seems like the obvious way to go if you have one (I do), much easier than getting bikes on/off the roof and no where near as much danger of forgetting they’re there whilst entering car parks and the like. Any recommendations? Or is it just Thule > everything else like with most things..

Little bit obscure, does anyone happen to know if the windshield for the Thule ride along mini will also fit on the mount for the Yepp mini?

Recently picked up a Yepp mini 2nd hand and there’s currently a very cheap windshield for the ride along on eBay, but I’m guessing they’re incompatible, just wondering if anyone has both or has experience of both? Ta!

Forgotten how much I wanted one of these. Was looking for a 29er SS one when I found my Niner instead.

For me the quintessential inbred has always been SS and rigid.

Been looking into child seats recently and it occurred to me it must be one of the few things there isn’t a thread for, bikes for carrying little’ns! (Unless there is? I couldn’t find it)

Post your child transporters, including model of child seat if applicable (and if it’s any good!) - there must be loads on here.