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Maybe! But seeing our gas use go over £10/day, if it does make things more efficient it should pay itself back over winter.

Yep, a regular Worcester Bosch thing.

Yeah the black one, for heating and hot water. I just didn't connect any wires to the HW side as I don't have any to connect, and it hasn't complained.

I've just replaced our Hive with a Tado + Automation subscription. £99 from Screwfix plus £25/year subscription. The price made it worth doing, as I don't think the Hive was making the best use of our gas.

I like that the app turns the heating off when we go out, has some actual data in it, and can modulate the boiler output rather than just on/off.

I liked the idea of an electric shower in the en suite so there's a working shower if the boiler ever goes down or needs work. The main bathroom runs off the boiler as it's in the cupboard next door, but the ensuite at the other end of the house has an electric one. It's also one less thing running off of gas in our current gas-reliant configuration.

With regard to the actual shower, it's good, but I was a bit disappointed with a £400 Mira not really feeling any more premium than the £100, aside a different colour.

Thanks for your advice on this. I've put a meter across the light with the light connected and on, and got 13.42v. Does that sound right? The light I'd like requires 12v exactly, not a range like some others. https://supernova-lights.com/en-en/products/mini-2-pro

That's good to know, thanks. I tend to top the battery up after each commute, so I don't think the shut off to keep the lights on will ever really be an issue.

Annoyingly, my current light says 6-12v, rather than a specific number, so I guess I need to dig a bit deeper.

My ebike (a Gazelle Medeo T10) came with a light wired in to its Bosch Performance Line motor. I'd like to fit a better light. Do I just buy a new light (and Bosch harness) and plug it in, or will it also need a Bosch shop to do something too?

For fixing a towel radiator to a tiled plasterboard wall, Fischer Duopower okay or do I need something chunky?

Any luck sticking it back together? I took mine apart this afternoon and both the seals for the front and rear crumbled. I was planning on measuring the voltage within, but didn't get that far.

I have another bike with a B&M light and Shimano hub so I was able to swap bits around and verify my dynamo is fine and it's the light that failed.

My light died on Wednesday, no rain, about 10ºc, so not the kind of weather I'd expect to tip it over the edge. I don't know if it contributed, but I noticed my bar bag droops on to the light slightly, and I wonder if that made it overheat.

IQ-X, you lasted three years of commuting, now to be replaced with the Edelux II I've ordered.

My IQ-X has just died. It was fine on the way to work (daylight, but a colleague commented on my lights when I arrived so I know they were on), but when I left in the evening (dark) no lights.

Dynamo is reading 18v AC when I spin the wheel with the bike on the stand. Rear light tails get 0.3v (AC, but I wonder if that should be measured DC). Doing the button doesn't seem to do anything.

Time to order a new light? Or is something up with the dynamo and it's killed the light?

Thanks @user74931 that looks good. I tried an oversized spacer behind my cassette, to the point I could only just screw the screw it together, and there was no play around the cassette so what remains must be from the free hub.

Thanks both. I finally managed to get out to the garage. The smallest sprocket is definitely sitting properly, but it still took adding a slim spacer behind the cassette to remove that play that allowed the cassette to split.

With it all back together, both on the bench and with the wheel in the frame, I now see a bit of play which I think is coming from the free hub body, as the cassette is now moving as one. Does that look right? Tricky to video as everything seems to move, but hopefully it is visible.

https://youtu.be/KEs1p60Bqao

I'll take it apart again when i get home today and double check that. The cassette has 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 in two groups, the singles for the rest. All the midway spacers are present and correct.

I did manage to get a 1mm spacer from my LBS at lunch time today, so if checking the smallest cog doesn't prove to be the issue, I'll try rebuilding it with that spacer and see where that gets me.

Hey,

I noticed a bit of a clunk when coming back on to the pedals after coasting the other day. This is a bike I haven't ridden much since I built it, but I don't remember it from when I fitted the cassette. I've taken it all apart and nothing looks damaged, and all parts are present.

Gripping the cassette, I can wobble it. There's only a very slight wobble on the free hub when the cassette is removed, and no discernible play if I wobble the wheel while in the frame.

Cassette is a CS-M8000 11 speed Deore XT, on a FH-M8010 rear hub. Both mountain bike parts, so no spacer required like it would with a road hub, but it feels like I need another spacer in there.

Anything else I should check? Or, if I go down the additional spacer route, what do I need?

Thanks.

https://youtu.be/vN4FzrE5P8I

Space, mostly. It currently finishes about 20cm below that new door, then minus the joist height, set on slab pillars, with a membrane of some sort to stop anything growing.

That looks just the thing for that gap. Pretty sure something like that went in when the walls were repaired, but the floor was left like that.

I chopped out a window to create a door. Doors now fitted, but I have some internal gaps to make good.

What product do I need do make that little transition on to the bricks smooth? Something that doesn't mind being laid thin? Would be good if I can use the same thing for the bigger hole that was once the cavity.

My place wants all staff back in as of the 19th, but with 50% WFH allowance going forward. I've liked working from home, and we had the best financial year to date while everyone was wfh, so the company definitely still operates.

Arrived yesterday, thank you very much @SideshowBob.

Still available? After yesterday's run, I could really do with a hat, and reusing is good!

Not sure if this is a question for here or the kitchen/bathrooms thread, but...

I'd like to fit something like https://www.directwoodflooring.co.uk/evocore-essentials-herringbone-champagne-oak.html in our en-suite. The shower tray is about 35mm tall, and the laminate 5mm tall.

What's the best way to finish the edge of the laminate that's against the shower tray? The default for an exposed edge would be a scotia, but is there anything else I should be considering?

I wrapped after a couple of hours of stall. I really wanted to get it done by 6pm so I could get the burnt ends done in time for dinner.

I've spoken to the butcher since and he said to take in a photo of what I want and he'll sort it out for me. From what he described, it sounds like he can supply something more like an American brisket, in shape at least.

That pork looks great!

Thanks, I'll give that a go. Too much yeast, owing too the small amounts needed, and a too warm kitchen are both real possibilities. It rose a lot!

Caputo blue pizzeria, added salt, then activated yeast (in water) then the rest of the water. Mixed by hand, then kneaded for 10 mins or so, until it felt right. Wasn't especially sticky at the end of that.

I let it prove for about 20 hours at room temp, at which it got sticky and was hard to get out of the bowl. Balled and left for another 4 hours, when it was still sticky to shape.

I've just changed my Ooni to run on gas, so will hopefully be retrying the 63% this weekend.