Captain_Darcy
Member since Sep 2015 • Last active Jul 2016Most recent activity
-
-
Have thought about that actually.
I don't like the idea that the mudguard can't be taken off without affecting the wire itself - the wire would have to be glued or crimped to the inside of the mudguard. A quick release connector after leaving the shell- for instance Supernova QR Gold Connector Set - could remedy this. But I feel it could create a possible weak link. Now the wire is one piece. Much more reliable for sure, and I can unplug the wire from the rear light to remove the mudguard if I need to.
-
Update! Some work done.
Decided to use tektro straddle wire hangers instead of mafac.
Two coax wires: one from the hub dynamo to head light and one from head light to rear light. Together in wire mesh guard...
... tied to the front rack...
... each going its own direction at the inside of the fork blade.
Wire guided under fork crown, entering downtube with a grommet.
Wire leaving left chainstay ( also a grommet ), tied to mudguard stay...
... and into to the rear light.
Tektro cable hanger, modified to adjust cable length.
Decaleur for the front bag. -
-
-
-
-
At the moment only the front brake is working, rear brake and shifting cables are yet to be installed. The front pads have to dialed in as well. So I can't share any real world experiences at the moment. However, I have ridden one of the framebuilder's bicycles with brazed on Mafac Racers, and braking was on par with dual pivots.
I might have to play with the straddle cable length to find the right balance in leverage / obtain the same performance. Setup of dual pivots is much easier.