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No problem!
My guess would be "not well".
I can't imagine that the CE11 derailleur is indexing perfectly, though, so it might be acceptable ... but I'd strongly doubt it'd be spot on - the amount the derailleur moves vs the amount of cable that the lever pulls in / releases is not correct. -
Your left and right levers might look a bit mis-matched, depending on which model 10s you have.
I just checked (we are a Campagnolo Service Centre) and ex-works, 10s cassettes are all still available (see image).
Centaur 10s 12-27 and 14-23 are also still available.
If you want to future proof, you really need to go to 12s.
Shimano 11 will work OK-ish on 12-up cassettes with a Campagnolo 11s lever and mech but 11 up, the CA spacing is very slightly different (the CA cassette is 0.3mm wider than Shimano when 11-up) and the SH cassette tends to be noisy (compound angle that the chain meets the sprockets) and the shift from the 13 to the 12 and 12 to the 11 can be laggy, if that bothers you.
It (the lagginess) is worse of you are thinking to repurpose a 2012 onwards Veloce 10s RD as 11s - it will work because the geometry is the same as 2009-2015 11s but the spring rates are lower in Veloce 10s than in most of the 11s mechs, which increases shift delay.
Assuming your Veloce 10s is PowerShift (post 2012) lever, the lever body you will need is EC-AT400C, if you go down this avenue. You can just swap the hood, clip and brake lever across.
It's generally OK when everything is new but as wear and tear sets in, there's more fettling required to keep the shift sweet. That's the reason (well, a lot of the reason, anyway) that the factory don't recommend hybridising 10 & 11s systems.
As an alternative you could go with a RH Centaur 11 lever body and a Centaur 11 RD plus 11s cassette and chain - the Centaur 11 rear shift is standalone in the Campagnolo universe (different to Athena, Potenza, Chorus, Record, Super Record) so the RD and the RH lever need to be used together.
Poor front shift in terms of chain drop (and the possibility for the chain to jam more easily in the RD if you are using a 10s RD) are additional reasons to avoid hybridising 10 and 11s.
That's aside from the commercial reasons, obviously ...
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You will need both ProTech cups and ProTech bearings - the bearings are different - but yes, the Ekar ProTech bearings will fit in place of the SR bearings and will then mate correctly with the ProTech cups.
You will have slightly higher rotational resistance because SR bearings are CULT system and run on an oil film, wheras Ekar uses a standard steel-on-steel bearing with grease lubrication, plus the additional seals can drag more initially, than the lip seals used in the standard UT arrangement.
The sealing on ProTech is certainly more robust but it's arguable whether in road applications, compared to the standard SR arrangement, that is of great advantage because the CULT bearing system is extremely wear resistant (albeit at a cost ...)
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Unfortunately, that screw isn't available as a spare part and simply replacing it won't necessarily put your RD back into working condition, in any case - part of the reason it isn't available, even to us, as one of the two Campagnolo Appointed Service Centres in the UK.
At the top of that screw is a crown gear that engages a bevel gear, which changes the spring tension at the top pivot bolt as the RD tracks across the cassette (the "Embrace" gear). If the crown gear and the bevel gear fall out of synch or alignment, either the Embrace system doesn't work properly or the gear develops one or more "sticky patches" in it's travel and doesn't index correctly. Once that screw is out, there's nothing keeping the crown and bevel gears aligned / synched.
I have to say, this is the first time in the 7 years of the Potenza group's presence in the market, I've ever seen that screw come out. The head is deliberately made so that a mechanic or final user can't easily remove it, for the reason given above.
If the gear is still within it's 3 year warranty period, you are the original owner and you have a proof of purchase, you could submit a warranty claim, either directly with us or via Chicken Cycle Kit - that's probably going to be your best course of action.
If you need to carry this further with us, please either use the technical help emailing system at
https://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/contact_us
And check the "End User" and "Technical" notes in the email form dropdowns. It'll be forwarded to me at Velotech, or answered directly by the factory (far more likely it'll come to me though).
Alternatively, please mail me direct at velotechcycling"at"aim"dot"com -
Looking at the image of the hanger on your bike, in your image, the material of the hanger doesn't look as if it is actually thick enough, at the point where it is bolted to the inside of the hanger, it's maybe half the thickness it should be.
It's as if this hanger was made for a dropout of similar shape when seen from the "side" but with a shallower recess for the hanger to bolt into. As others have said, maybe a near match, maybe cut to suit, maybe for a later version (or an earlier one) of the same dropout.
The best plan is to contact ZyroFisher, as the current importer of Look - and see if they can source a hanger for you.
BETD or some other third party might also list the correct item.
If you really don't (for whatever reason) want to go down that avenue, you could make a flat plate the right size and with drillings in the right places and asndwich that between the hanger and the inside surface of the dropout to bulk out the inner surface. You'd need longer screws of course. There are risks to this approach- the threaded part that the screws are engaged into will be a long way from the heads of the screws - so they will be a big potential turning moment on them, especially when you are cross-chained. You'd need (at a minimum) to keep a close eye on the tightness of the hanger bolts over time ...
Having said all of that, I know I've built and worked on 595s in the dim and distant past with CA10 and 11 (same spec for smallest sprocket position) and not had a problem that I can recall, so I am pretty sure this is the wrong hanger. It just "looks" wrong (no pun intended), apart from anything else.
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Because we get a lot of email about this at the Service Centre and just for clarity ref. the above:
Potenza is stand-alone, where shift levers and derailleurs are concerned, in the Campag range.
Centaur 11s is also stand-alone in these respects.Shift levers and derailleurs 11s CH, RE and SR are interchangeable pre-2015.
Shift levers and derailleurs 11s CH, RE and SR are interchangeable post 2015.There is no interchangeability in shift levers or / and derailleurs "across" the 2015 cable-pull ratio change (so you can't run a pre 2015 lever, say, with a post 2015 mech and get to-spec shifting).
Campagnolo 11s cassettes, chains and brakes are fully interchangeable across all 11s groups so long as derailleur capacities are respected.
There are some particular requirements around 11s cranksets.
- In 2015 with the change to 4-arm, chainring spacing changed and that gives "OK" shifting with pre 2015 levers / mechs but it is not optimal.
- In order to correctly optimise for 135mm back end / to change chainline, Campagnolo changed the chainring spacing again in 11s HO cranksets, so HO series cranksets will only shift to spec with HO LH levers and post 2015 FDs.
- That's not to say non-optimal combinations "don't work" if the intermix is done - but it doesn't work "to spec" and as a result, intermixes void the functional as well as the materials / workmanship warranty.
If you follow the compatibility letter-codings laser-etched or moulded into the various transmission components, you can't go wrong ...
- In 2015 with the change to 4-arm, chainring spacing changed and that gives "OK" shifting with pre 2015 levers / mechs but it is not optimal.
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It can be done but you'll end up with spacing more like a Fulcrum wheel than a G3.
You'll need a 28H, use all the gear side and miss alternate holes on the NGS.
You'll need a deep rim - to control the radial true - even then, it won't be perfect. Campag G3 rims are not perfectly round out of the box, they are very slightly heptagonal so that when the correct tension is pulled onto the spoke groups, they pull into round - using a 3rd party rim you won't have that option so the only thing that you can do is use a deep rim to get as much radial rigidity as you can. Dialling the spoke tensions down is not an option with only 21 spokes - you need to be at 130 - 150 kgs on the gear side, probably. Depends on your weight and the intended purpose, whether you are running tubes, tubular or tubeless ...
Because you are dealing with high spoke tensions, the spoke length needs to be pretty much spot on - so you are almost certainly into recalculating spoke lengths. On the gear side you have to bear in mind that the spoke exit angles from the hub are made for a G3 rim - building straight pull onto a rim with different spoke spacing might end in tears. Depends on rim depth for good entry angles at the rim, too.
If the rim's too deep, the entry angles will cause you grief as the nipple may not be able to turn enough to align well - too shallow and you'll potentially struggle with roundness.
Don't take this the wrong way - but to do this and do it well, is not a job for a rookie wheel-builder - by which I mean, it's not a job for your 1st wheel, or probably even your 21st ... as a job, to get it right, you need a bit of experience to choose the right rim, the right spokes, and I'd advise an accurate tensiometer (not the Park one).
Even using the right parts, most shop wheel-builders send the wheels to us to be done.
We stock virtually all of the Campagonolo rims that are still available and have one or two that aren't ... but you are right - relatively they are expensive. The ones that we don't have we can order from the factory - if they are in stock in Italy, delivery is around a week to three weeks,it depends where you catch us in our order cycle.
I say it myself - but after 10 years as Campag's head mech in the UK, I've probably built more G3 wheels and adaptations of G3 wheels than anyone else in the UK (upwards of 200) and I am still learning new tricks ..!
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Builders varied. I have a memory that Ray Cottingham built at least some of them, Viner built some ... because it was a distributor-owned brand, as in many such cases, the builder was the source that could do the job to the required price and standard, at the time ...
As to who the distributor was, it's lost in the mists of my memory but I think it was either Phil Edwards who went on to form the distibutor Caratti Sport with his brother, Mark, or Alan Lloyd.
I read somewhere that Ceeway Marketing, currently the main importer and distributor for Columbus tubing, Cobra and Hozan tools and all manner of slightly more obscure small parts for frame and bicycle fabrication, is the modern incarnation of the old owners of the Saba brand ...
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If it will shift correctly one way and not the other, and all other factors around alignment are catered for, that suggests a spacing issue, a derailleur set up error (in some circumstances), friction in the cable system or incorrect cables.
Check:
Cassette spacers are correct - Krankers is not strictly correct, they are only "all the same" on the Potenza and Centaur cassette - Chorus (which is used on many occasions with the Centaur group), Record and Super Record all have a 2.3 mm spacer between sprockets 6 and 5 (counting the smallest sprocket as number 1), all the other spacers are 2.2 mm.
Cassette properly tight (40nm tightening torque).
Cassette body properly tight on the axle (the fixing nut is LH threaded, 16nm torque).
"H" screw correctly set on the biggest sprocket / small chainring combo - especially if you are running a wide cassette like 11-29 or 12-29.
Campagnolo cables (not "compatibles") and new outers, also Campagnolo, metal (not plastic) ferrules. You'll read all over the place this makes no difference - it does.
Don't "California Cross" (unless the frame / cable guide system is designed specifically for it).
Internal cables - make sure the cables are not interfering with each other.
Under-bracket tunnel - make sure it's clean, that it's tight to the frame and that it's not worn - cables can wear a groove that eventually traps the inner, adding friction.
You generally have approx 1/2 turn of the cable adjuster lattitude each way from the perfect "sweet spot" (same as Shimano) so dialling in should not be super-hard.
Last - limit screws can affect cable tension but maybe not in quite the way you might expect - so, disconnect the RD cable, set the high limit screw without the cable attached, then attach the cable and tension. If you adjust the high limit screw with the cable attached, it may be the cable that is limiting how far towards top gear the RD can travel, so preloading the cable more than it would be pre-loaded by correct use of the limit screw & barrel adjuster. -
What rear end spacing do you have?
Is it a 120mm (classic track / FG), or an adapted 126 or 130mm?English (68mm) BB shell?
Head tech at Campagnolo Main UK SC
MD, majority shareholder and head instructor at Velotech Cycling Ltd, owners of the Velotech Modular Accreditation for Cycle Mechanics - a widely industry recognised and supported training and assessment system for cycle mechanics / technicians.
We also own and operate Campagnolo's main UK Service and Tech Centre, with oversight of all warranty and technical training for Campagnolo in the UK. We are one of only 2 such companies worldwide - the other countries are all catered for either by branches of Campagnolo or by Campagnolo Italy.
I am a co-director of The Service Corps (http://www.servicecorps.eu) where I am responsible for the technical competence of the mechanics that we supply to sportifs, races and other cycling events.
I have worked in virtually every role in the cycle industry from casual "Saturday lad" through to National Sales Manager for a national wholesaler - but have maintained a deep involvement in cycle mechanics for over 30 years. I have twirled spanners for riders in every discipline, from casual cyclists, through club riders up to and including World Champions both reigning and former ... I'm proud to list past winners of all the major road Classics and Tours in my client list - I have even fettled at the odd MTB race!