Most recent activity
-
-
-
-
If you want to clear coat then you don't need to prime it.
The best rattle can clear coat is the Mipa 2pack cans you can get - not cheap though. The finish is considerably better and more durable than 1k... It is two part lacquer though and therefore highly poisonous... Wear a mask, spray outside, don't let any get on your skin or in your eyes.
You could then matt the finish with wet sanding or a gentle rub down with fine wire wool.
If you don't fancy doing it yourself drop me a PM and I can do it for you
R
-
Give it a go yourself. The only thing you MUST make sure you do not do is go down into the carbon during preparation. So when you are keying the surface up with sandpaper or whatever, be very, very careful to not hit the carbon.
Don't use Nitromorse, don't even think about shot blasting it.
Don't use etch primer.
I'd very gently dry sand it with 1200 grit, clean it off and then prime it.
R
-
No problem 1000archangels. As I've said in the thread I'm no professional but I do it as a hobby and thought why not try and help people out around London who want some basic(ish) paintwork done...
Mands - pea green, very nice! Yeah have a go at knocking out the cotter pins and splitting the bottom bracket yourself, I'm sure there's someone on here who knows how to deal with them, that might have some advice for you :)
-
-
Hi robinmarine. I can indeed remove threaded headsets, so long as they're not corroded or jammed up in some other way. What I cannot do is re-fit the bushings used in threadless headsets as I don't have the specialist tool that enables you to drive the bushings back in at a perfectly straight angle...
Send me a PM with some details of what you want doing and I'll see if I can help you out :)
Is that just red rubber grease?