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SockToy, your London ride will be a mass of stop/start, so the chances of actually getting to use all those gears is minimal. You need no more than 10 gears, and the compact chainset is perfect. You'll be able to skim along at 25 mph on the 14-tooth sprocket using the compact, and you can exceed 30 on the 12T if your legs are strong enough: do you envisage going faster than that between lights? If so, you may need the 53/39, but you say you are a novice: I suspect those ratios may be too much for you if it's some time since you you rode seriously.
In truth, you will use maybe six of the 20-22 gears available to you on a London commute. Even a 10-speed is over-engineered for what you are proposing. Don't waste your money - buy a decent but relatively inexpensive cassette that will fit your existing wheels.
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mmcarthy, those Shimano M183s seem to have a soccer stud/cleat at the toe! How extreme is your commute?
I find Shimanos very narrow. Bontrager makes the fitment of the SPD cleat really difficult - I've nearly sliced a finger off in the process. If you have a wide foot, I'd say Specialized - never tried the Muddy Foxes though.
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A bit of background. I've got too old for my sport (rugby), and hope cycling will keep me engaged for many years. I do about 1200 miles per summer on a road bike, and want to build a fixed gear bike as a hobby for winter riding - not least because I really want to build a pair of wheels without duplicating what I've already got.
I bought a Puch Cavalier frame with horizontal dropouts. It is complete with forks, but otherwise naked. I'm looking for advice on the componentry. With this frame, nothing at silly prices, but I don't want it to be rubbish either. I'm thinking: Miche flipflop hubs, a tri-style handlebar and (because the BB is fairly low) relatively short cranks. I'm confused about the BB: I'll go for a sealed unit instead of replacing the old cup & axle that would have been original, but should I stick with internal bearings, or try to fit externals (I'm not interested in having the ends milled down)? I think Truvative GXP units may be able to function well without having the BB ends faced?
Similarly, headsets have moved on a lot since this frame was made. I'm assuming that an Aheadset would not fit the head tube/fork combo. If correct, then what is a good modern threaded headset?
All help greatly appreciated.