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zitraux

Member since Apr 2010 • Last active Dec 2014
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  • 4 comments

Most recent activity

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    =D you gotta see it through

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    whoops, didn't mean to post twice... nor offend anyone.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Cheers for the responses.

    Yeah, thought I'd have heard about it before if it was really the case, since I'm an expert "armchair wheelbuilder".

    Snowflake wheels are usually stiffer, for each complete twist (spoke goes where it was supposed to go originally), add 2 mm in spoke length, no more than three mm! Unlike suggested by some i***t, never guess the spokes length!
    If you have never done it before, it is easier to use a spokes pattern with two crossings as the base (as opposed to the regular 3-crossing spokes pattern, in which the third crossing will be twisted). This results in a less steep angle of the spokes where they are entering the nipple/rim, which again results in less of a hassle during trueing.
    Just twist the spoke that normally goes underneath ist "partner" spoke in the second crossing, go around the other one 180 degrees, and you're set.

    If the spokes are double-butted or not doesn't matter. You can't twist anything in 3L3T, so there was some misunderstaning before.

    Spokes will naturally be more prone to break generally, and if one fails, the partner spoke will be useless as well.
    good luck!

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for zitraux

    Cheers for the responses.

    Yeah, thought I'd have heard about it before if it was really the case, since I'm an expert "armchair wheelbuilder".

    Snowflake wheels are usually stiffer, for each complete twist (spoke goes where it was supposed to go originally), add 2 mm in spoke length, no more than three mm! Unlike suggested by some i***t, never guess the spokes length!
    If you have never done it before, it is easier to use a spokes pattern with two crossings as the base (as opposed to the regular 3-crossing spokes pattern, in which the third crossing will be twisted). This results in a less steep angle of the spokes where they are entering the nipple/rim, which again results in less of a hassle during trueing.
    Just twist the spoke that normally goes underneath ist "partner" spoke in the second crossing, go around the other one 180 degrees, and you're set.

    If the spokes are double-butted or not doesn't matter. You can't twist anything in 3L3T, so there was some misunderstaning before.

    Spokes will naturally be more prone to break generally, and if one fails, the partner spoke will be useless as well.
    good luck!

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