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There is definitely enough room to pull the wheel back and get sufficient tension on the chain as it is, but because the chaintug wasn't sitting against the back of the dropouts I thought that there was a problem. I'll gladly get rid of the chaintug if I don't need one (one less thing to give me hassle), but I was under the impression that running without one was problematic.
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Hi.
I've just built a new ss On One Slotted Inbred and cannot get the chain tension correct.
I haven't ridden it yet because I cannot get the correct tension on the chain. The chain, as it stands currently, is too long, but if I shorten it to the next available shorter length then it's too short.
As it is at the moment (too long), I can slide the wheel back and get some tension on the chain, but the On One chain tug bolts are then not long enough to sit against the back of the dropouts, which would mean that there is a chance for the wheel to pull forward. I don't want to have to have a tensioner, because that is the reason I bought a slotted dropout.
Has anyone here got a similar set-up? Perhaps I could get longer bolts for the chaintug (if I can locate some), or do I need to get a half link for the chain?
The chain is a 'KMC X9.93 9 Speed Chain' - is this part of the problem?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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- 3 comments
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Hi.
After enjoying a singlespeed conversion on one of my older bikes for the last couple of months, I've finally taken the plunge and bought myself a slotted Inbred frame. I'm now in the market for some parts, and being that this is my first proper singlespeed frame, I'm after a good and effective chaintug to use with QR.
Is the Surly Tuggnut compatible with this frame/QR? Or, are the On One chaintugs just as effective?
Even with QR?