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a_person

Member since Dec 2008 • Last active Apr 2011
  • 23 conversations
  • 290 comments

Most recent activity

    • 154 comments
    • 6,533 views
  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
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    scrap what i said, didn't know about those head-tube extenders

  • in General
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    http://www.bikeregister.com/howitworks.htm

    Those considering purchasing a secondhand bike can also check a frame number with the bikeregister.com database to confirm it hasn’t been reported stolen.

    might have some form of contact details if its stolen

    atb

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    ^ :D or ride it backwards

    if you don't know what your buying, don't buy it
    common sense really isn't it

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
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    there's the tool library here
    someone local should be able to help

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
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    threaded

    threadless (ahead)

    also that pic says nothing, yes it has a threadless stem, but some bikes come with thread to threadless converters like this from sjsc

    Sheldon brown is your friend :)
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
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    You will need to know whether you need a treaded fork or threadless ( this is determined by the headset)
    You will need to know what width steerer you want ( usually 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch)
    You will need to know what length of steerer you want (length of head tube, headset and how many spacers you want, so you can tweak you handle bar height)
    You will need to know what type of fork you want in terms of wheel size for rim brake mounts( 700cc, 650cc, 26inch etc),
    You will need to know what length of fork you want (which is measured in axle to crown length, this is based on the frame geo)
    And then there are other thing to take into considerations like whether or not you want mounts for a rack, mud guards, tyre clearance etc

    Think ive covered most of it

  • in Rides & Races
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    according to sheldon browns gear calculator i run a 67.5 gi on my all rounder ( 26" 1.5 tyres 38-14)
    spinning before a hill is the way to go, the momentum will usually take you up the majority of hills, long climbs are a bitch and very steep long climbs are sometimes impossible (when i have traction i cant turn the crank with all 14 st of me behind it and when i don't i just wheel spin) which usually results in hand on saddle and jogging

    its possible if your willing to compromise a tad

    ATB

  • in General
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    ive just sent my email to local mep :)

    cameras sound like a good idea
    but that only accounts for the accidents and deaths through visibility issues

    what about dangerous driving/cycling etc
    hgv drivers (car and van drivers for that matter also) don't seem to realize there in control of potentially a deadly weapon when it comes to cyclist and pedestrians
    and that cyclist who put themselves in stupid/dangerous positions are just asking for trouble
    educating both parties further is still needed imo

    it's a step in the right direction though

    thanks for posting this ufrasia

  • in Mechanics & Fixin'
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    Very important lesson for you:

    Most cheap home workshop vices from places like lidl or discount hardware shop selling mainly chinese stuff have serrated/cross-hatched surface on the jaws.

    This will mangle your tools.

    its not the end of the world if it they do have serrated jaws
    2 strips of steel bent at 90 degrees, instead of buying strips and bending you could just get some angle iron, will give you a flat jaw
    a bit of double sided tape will stop it sliding about while the vice isnt under load
    then you have the best of both worlds

    heres a portable vice, you can fit to any worktop, bench, table etc
    Irwin Record TV75B Portable Table Vice 3" / 75mm £20.80
    heres a decent bench vice at a great price
    Sealey Vice 100mm Fixed Base Professional Heavy-Duty £37.95

    http://www.tooled-up.com/SubCategory.asp?CID=26&SCID=406

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