Most recent activity
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http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-ribble-sportive-7005-12-46015
Apparently I've become a Ribble advocate, the only negative is the build-time is very long at the moment around 4 weeks
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Cannondale CAAD 8 Tiagra
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/cannondale/caad8-6-tia-2012-compact-road-bike-ec031475Supposedly the best aluminium frame on the market. My mate has the 105 version and it's far more lovely than the Allez Sport it replaced. See if you can find a way to get the 105 for under £1000 or the CAAD 10, my mate managed it with a cunning Evans 10% off voucher
Alternatively, check out Ribble.
I have a Ribble Winter SRAM Apex picked up for <£700 and I didn't even bother with CTW. Ribble can't be beat from a price value perspective, check out the special offers if you're not too bothered by the brand name
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/pu/road-track-bike/special-edition-bikes/specialedition/1
Rose Bikes (of Germany) is also worth a look, no CTW but prices low enough that it really doesn't matter
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/ -
Ok, it's the first sign of wet-weather in Sunny Brighton, and I need some MTFU tips.
Basically braking....
Brake-induced rear wheel skid - slightly sketch
Hipster skid - Seemingly less sketch
Brake-induced front wheel skid - I'm shitting myself.So without wanting to face-plant the back of a No.25 bus, what's the most effective method of braking once you might as well be ice-skating?
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There's a definite tight/loose spot - coincides with the cranks getting to the Horizontal position.
Parts wise, it's a 44t 3/32 Bontrager GXP with about 800 miles wear, paired with a Surley 17t 3/32 which has had about 100 miles.
It's a lemond fillmore, chainline wise - visually not an obvious problem, although I haven't measured it like this guy:
http://www.londonfgss.com/thread2592.html -
Hey all, quick query.
Constantly faffing with my chain tension, yet I always run into the same problem:
As the chain just gets to the right amount of tension, it seems as if it binds slightly on the tight spot on the chainring. This produces a bit of noise / detectable vibration at slow speed.
Its irritating.....
I use a Surly Chain Tug - so getting the chain tension right is pretty easy - yet it still seems to vibrate!
Could it be because I'm running an "odd" rear sprocket (44x17)
Is this the price I have to pay for less tire replacements, or am I a nonce?
Cheers,
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Whilst I'm sure it's only a matter of practice - clipless have an added "easy-bail" factor going for them.
I still remember first public attempt at trackstand, followed by comical fall whilst trying to escape straps - bought shoes and clipless that night.
Also, double sided cleats like Shimano (at the cheap end) or Crank Bros etc, are pretty much stamp and go, none of the "cunningly flip pedal whilst sliding foot forward" bs of straps
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I run 44x17 - 68.3
Here's a low-res pic of the Ribble Winter SRAM Apex that arrived in the post this morning. I'll take some higher-res photos tomorrow morning (and fit the seatpost clamp.....) - £697 with ITM Aero 2.4s, not bad as a commuter / winter trainer