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I know many will discount this….
But , square taper Shimano bb un55 are still available in 73mm. Love to see you try and destroy this.
Then spa cranks in 110 bcd. They do 165mm as well.
Not pushing an agenda here but my anecdata says it’s good.
Then NW cring off AliExpress for 8£. Or if you buy the spa triple crank arms and make , a compact double 24/36 , 30/46 or whatever. They do these built up as while csets too.
Before anyone says heavy , I too ride a surly and have weighed things precisely zero times so this may be important to you! Also aesthetics, hmmm, surly with tbars (like I do) kind of invalidated this? -
Please do this! Love to know how it goes. I have a frame that is annoyingly 73mm , as all the cranks I want to ride width wise are for 68mm. Wide mtb cranks are wide wide wide for me.
Tried to work out whether to use hack saw, angle grinder etc before getting it faced.
Has anyone done this here? -
I gear down by about a sprocket tooth in winter. Less to do with cadence lower speeds etc, but because I go fatter tyres.
Summer = 622 + 25mm
Winter = 622 + 35mm
Circumference diff is about 3 gear inches for me . I used to wonder why I felt extra sluggish in winter! -
Quick post turned into long one-
I have been enjoying my lumintop B01 that arrived this week. Seems well made.
Panic when I thought it was not working but a simple check found a plastic tab on the battery cap to stop it from switching on in transit etc
The light is used as a back up/secondary to a Dynamo . The cut off on the beam is very pronounced compared to any light I have used. Great for commuting, especially on cycle paths where I feel I will not blind others like I am by some very strong but multidirectional lights. I have had to stop and let them pass before I continue , so strong are some, so this is a big big plus point for the light.
The colour of the beam is also unique. Compared to other lights, it is quite warm almost yellow/like candle light colour, very noticeable when running with another at same time. Quite like it.
Switches are intuitive once you get it. Always have to learn when coming from a different light but the one press on/off is great as a back up boost to Dynamo.
Bracket looks big off the bike, but fine on with light affixed. Thought it would not be possible to run upside down with the way it has an open press in clasp action, but has been fine this week. Having a lanyard gave confidence to try.
Mr Previous back up was a cat eye volt 300 about 10 years old that works still but a dodgy worn clip. Would have bought again but instead of aluminium construction new ampp series plastic which is fine but not sure 10 years fine.
So far would recommend for 30 quid inc taxes and a big 21700 Samsung battery.
But… will hopefully report back on 10 years time! -
FWIW…
Ever since a memorable unfortunate ride in the 80s, I now ride with a 4 inch section of tyre. Weighs , what , nothing?
Ultimate boot. To concept prove it, before binning a worn tyre, cut carcass bead to bead , inserted boot and was able to inflate and ride to work. A bit thunk thunk but faster than walking or finding a hedge , only to be found next spring.
Bonus is it is right size to wrap around inner tube so that if you need to use, it has not had a hole chafed it. If only that were just a one of experience. -
Probably very expensive as the brexit dividend / gift thats doesn’t stop giving- means you can only travel with your own bike. Travel with a van load = duties , taxes etc
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I think thorn do this the same as many uk frame builders did before the mudguard breakaway clips etc existed.
With eyes at fork ends , if something gets caught in guard, the mudguard is forced into the wheel and can cause catastrophic results. With eyes higher up , the arc of movement moves the mudguard away from wheel so a bit less likely to be as catastrophic. Not as aesthetic but…. -
Did someone say front mudguard and surly?
One of the lovely things about surly forks is the huge amount of mounting opportunities and clearance!
Extra mudflap made from inner tubes glued together to give it some weight and touches ground at still. Keeps feet incredibly dry and chain clean. Extra long front made from old mudguard screwed on and stabilised by front rack. Getting over the brow of the front wheel is a game changer to avoid Belgian toothpaste. Also keeps Dynamo light clean. -
Fully endorse tin foil under the insole. Use it every winter. I think in general keeping and retaining heat in shoe as close to foot as possible works for me, so as well as overshoes I use sandwich bags over my socks but inside shoe . I also silicone vents and the gaps around the shoe plate/spd fitting as this seems an open thermal bridge to the outside world. Easily picked out in spring . Also, are you using thicker socks? Great as they are warm but I have had some shoes where it was actually colder as they were tighter fitting as a result so not do good for circulation. Good luck!
having just seen that shell/chainstay combo , no way that would be getting cut down to 68mm!