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Hi all!
Looking for an older steel tourer frameset that would be a good basis for my future project. I have no actual preferences regarding the model and mark but I'd love a Dawes Galaxy. A Raleigh Royal and such would also fit perfectly.
Regarding the frameset's condition, I'd prefer something with no dents and other notable damage. Not looking for anything that needs a repaint in the near future.
My budget is rather unfixed but I think frames like that should sell around 100-150 but I guess that really depends.
Frame size should be around 60 and TT preferably a few centimeters shorter than the ST. I'm 6'1" and my inseam is around 36.5-37".
Also shipping to Witham needed when the seller is from the UK.
When the seller is in EU then it's even easier since I'm actually located in the EU.Cheers!
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I've decided to buy my first steel rigid MTB-like bike for bikepacking, trails etc for the first time in my life.
Worse part is, that I can’t figure out the geometries and sizing at all. I’m 186 cm (6'1") with a 93...94 cm (~36.6”...37") inseam. My wingspan (ape index) is 1 which means that I have a standard arms length and most probably my torso is a bit shorter than usual since my inseam is much longer than standard.
I have no clue if I should go for a L or an XL and which could be worse. With size L I’m worried about a really-really massive amount of seatpost showing which I would rather avoid. With size XL I will probably have a too long reach although this might be relieved with a backswept bar and short stem but I’ve got no clue how it would affect the steering quality… I’m looking to achieve a rather upright and relaxed position in which I could sit for long days of riding.
I’ve looked at frames similar like Kona Unit X, Surly Ogre, Surly Bridge Club, Brother Big Bro, On One Bootzipper (I’m located in EU and I’m not sure if I have access to US brands). The main dimensions of the frames that I’ve considered are following (note that I don’t have much knowledge about geometries but I think those are the most important for me):
Kona Unit X
- L effective top tube = 637; reach = 475; seattube = 470;
- XL effective top tube = 675; reach = 510; seattube = 530
Surly Ogre
-L effective top tube = 615; reach = 427.6; seattube = 508
-XL effective top tube = 640; reach = 447; seattube = 558Surly Bridge Club
-L effective top tube = 615; reach = 434.5; seattube = 508
-XL effective top tube = 630; reach = 444 ; seattube = 558.8Brother Big Bro
-L effective top tube = 620; reach = 432 ; seattube = 508
-XL effective top tube = 645; reach = 452; seattube = 559On One Bootzipper 650b
-L effective top tube = 621; reach = 458; seattube = 483
-XL effective top tube = 647; reach = 480; seattube = 510Link with all the geometries is here: https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/kona-unit-x-2020-l,kona-unit-x-2020-xl,surly-ogre-2020-lg,surly-ogre-2020-xl,surly-bridge-club-2018-lg,surly-bridge-club-2018-xl,brother-big-bro-2021-large-20,brother-big-bro-2021-xlarge-22,on-one-bootzipper-650b-2019-lrg,on-one-bootzipper-650b-2019-xlg/
I have a 21” vintage MTB that I’m commuting with and with and its seattube is 54 cm and measuring from the top of the seat-tube til the end of the saddle I get about 28-29 cm of saddle+seatpost. I’m actually having doubts about the looks of the seatpost but you can be the judge (pic of the setup here: https://ibb.co/qCdrFqG
Going back to the seattube lengths of the framesets, only Ogre, Bridge Club and Big Bro with XL size have a seat-tube which would not need a longer seapost than I already have on my commuter. And from them, the Bridge Club has the shortest reach & top tube which sounds the best for me, but I’m still cautious about the reach.
Regarding the solution with a really short stem and swept back handlebars – how does it ride like and how bad it actually is? Is there any reason to worry? There are many articles online which are saying a short stem makes the handling bad and unstable etc etc…
Nonetheless, there are plenty of setups that have handlebars with the same line as the top tube or even closer to the saddle, for instance
Bombtrack Beyond Adv: https://www.bombtrack.com/complete-bikes/beyond-plus-adv
Crust Scapegoat: https://bikepacking.com/bikes/goats-crust-scapegoat/
Kona Unit X: https://bikepacking.com/bikes/kona-unit-x-review/
Big Bro: https://www.brothercycles.com/2017/02/big-bro-build-bicycle-ambulance/
Surly Ogre: https://bikepacking.com/news/readers-rig-bas-surly-ogre/
Bridge Club: https://bikepacking.com/bikes/surly-bridge-club-review/
Bootzipper: https://www.cyclinguk.org/cycle-magazine/bike-test-one-bootzipper-29er
So my main questions are:
Should I go for L or XL?
Is there anyone with the similar issue and what’s your setup? Can you please post a picture of your setup?
How much would it actually affect my steering when I go for instance a 5 cm stem and a nice swept back bar to get a relaxed touring position?
Are there any similar frame geometries that have a rather long seat-tube but a shorter reach?
Or is getting this type of bike hopeless with my length and inseam and I should go for a different style of bike? For instance I think Crust Evasion can fit big rubbers and has a much shorter reach but I’m not sure it’s a good bike for my budget + it’s most probably really hard to find one also especially in the EU.
Thanks!
- L effective top tube = 637; reach = 475; seattube = 470;
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What is the safest and strongest solution for fixing my rear wheel in a horizontal dropout?
I have an Omnium CXC frame that I'm slowly building up. To get some more clearance, I decided to install chain tugs (without actually tugging, more like acting as a spacer) but now my Mavic QR (163-164 mm axle length) is not long enough.
Should I get:
A different QR (thinking about Shimano XT M8000 with 173 mm axle)or
bolt-on skewers? (Omnium also has some: https://omniumcargo.dk/shop/product/qr-axles/)
I think the front wheel should be fine with the Mavic QR
Thanks!
Dropout without the QR:
Dropout with the short QR axle:
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Hey!
Looking for Nitto Bullmoose with the 1" integrated stem, silver.
Not looking for a vintage, rare or collector version. An used and functional will do.
Preferably located in the EU (or anyone knows a bike shop in EU that has it in stock?)
Used from the UK would also be fine (I know Planet X has some in stock but since they're new, the Brexit tax of 20% would be added to the total price...).
Seller should be willing to ship. If seller is from the UK then transport only within UK is needed (I have an UK address).
Thanks and all tips where to get the handlebar are warmly welcome.
looking for a potential cx/monstercross/adventure/gravel frame
from Estonia