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That's exactly what I mean. Used to be tight and I was appreciating that a lot during long climbs. Hope to restore it by refilling the oil of the damper (at least) in the DLR. Thanks a lot for the offer - I guess that will be an ongoing project so fancy better getting one myself (or eventually trying the plier approach). I also found another shop having a HDTL146 L in stock - will that one be long enough? Hard to tell from your photos - what do you think?
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Ah! Thanks for the replies : ) My fault: hexabolt not 'nut' I just read on the previous page. So I 'try' not to remove it. So first thing to do is opening the upper outer cap with a pin spanner - right? Sending them off - I actually have 3 of them - is not an option - want to learn and don't have the money. Dr. Cannondale has a fancy castle nut tool for 80€ , guess I'll continue searching. Regarding the elastomer: it does not connect to the lockout being a bit loose, does it?
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JWestland, thanks so much for sharing! Have the very same bike and fork for 20 long years, approx. 50K Km and 1!!! service for the fork. Now - still smooth - the lockout is not as tight as it used to be and I feel I should go ahead and fix it myself... I read through the few sources I could find out there and yours definitely is the most helpful one to me!
One question I still have (just to be safe): when opening the fork from the top I do not take off the massive nut, that holds the lockout (image attached), right? But start with the Parktool SPA-1 (?!) to open the fork?
I hope I did not miss that part in your documentation and would appreciate your brief reply :) Oh and one more thing: even though you're mentioning Germany as THE place to stock Headshok tools from I cannot find any shop around here (particularly Berlin area) to purchase a castle nut tool from that fitting to the Super D as well as a Ultra DLR) - anyone out there with an idea?!
Hi again, got the castle tool and all worked out like a charm. Really simple procedure altogether; I encourage everyone to give it a try based on the info to be found on this thread : ) Many thanks to everyone involved! Last but not least: encouraged by my success I felt like fixing my recently purchased Ultra DLR (advertised as "just serviced") as well and was surprised to found a bit of the damper broken of. I attach a photo of it for better understanding: I was gently trying to get it of to measure and re-print it on a 3D printer but wasn't able to move it without potentially breaking it even further. Is there anyone out there who came across that challenge and can advise me how to get it off and/or even knows where to order the part?! Thanks again for your help! Best regards, Hannes