Most recent activity
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There's some logic to the position .. Parked at the end and well over in the space to avoid the usual parking door dings on either side ..
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And because they don't salt most of the Japanese vehicles aren't undersealed. Just something to think about doing if importing directly from Japan.
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The float as designed to accommodate tolerance differences in manufacture, for example pads moving at different rates as seals have different stiction. If the calpiers are misaligned then to a certain degree the misalignment may be nullified, but that'll create noise the same as a fixed rotor. Pad noise will still occur even with the perfectly setup system.
Solid rotors do have a place through as they're cheaper and also in continuous dust / dirt floating rotors can become none floating as the buttons can jammed with debris.
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The float happens at the buttons - the round pieces joining the spider to the rotor. A floating rotor normally gives the most stopping power. When you grab the brake lever it squeezes the brake pads onto the rotor which has the ability to move and conform to the brake pads giving maximum rotor to pad contact.
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Cyfac in France although I don't think they have a hip hop reputation
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Perhaps most common misconception is that better steel is stiffer than something made out of steel gas pipe. Stiffness is measured by a material's 'Young's Modulus' and all steels are within pretty tight limits, Reynolds measure a figure of 207GPa for ALL their tubing regardless of quality. So what you get buying expensive tubing is a) ‘butting’ to lose weight and gain strength where required b) increased ultimate tensile strength which is the point where the material snaps and fails. A tubes shape and size impact the formulas required to calculate stiffness – hence Colnago and Columbus playing with the Gilco tubing. For a round tube the only dimensions considered in stiffness formulas are the Outer Diameter and Inner Diameter. So, to get a stiffer tube with a similar wall thickness, as the down tube numbers above, the outer diameter needs to increase … Why I come to my internet analysis above .. But, as a bike frame is a structure the way one tube interacts with another will also have an effect when ridden.
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Google skills are lacking and I can't find the UTS for the Tange tubing only typical dimensions .. "Internet anyalsis" based on the down tube spec I did find is that for a like for like frame the Tange frame will be more noodly than the Spirit frame. The dia of the tubing is smaller for a similar wall thickness. Looking at that pink showcase build above everything is WW .. EE brakes, Exogram cranks, I links cables etc so I'm wondering how much the components influence the built weight and what the actual frame weight is in comparison to a frame constructed in Spirit ?
DOWN TUBE -
Tange Ultimate Super lite : Round 28.6 mm - Thickness 0,6 - 0,3 - 0,6 mm - Length 620mm - Weight 205 g
Columbus Spirit : Round 38 mm - Thickness 0,5 - 0,38 - 0,5 mm - Length 635mm - Weight 220 g -
You'd have to google reviews. I had some KCNC CB1 brakes which looked more conventional. Really light, but speed modulation rather then braking and you could see flex in them when braking which was worrying till you forgot about it.
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KCNC hill road brakes from a weight weenie time before EE
Presume you've tried the aluminium foil cleaning technique?