Look Mi.50

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  • A muched loved bike,
    A long time ago i've followed the build of this Bike, in a Portuguese forum, and i really enjoyed the bike itself, and the way the previous owner had it built.

    The bike was bought from here, and then painted in Amourtex,

    Right now, it is with me :)

    Mounted with SRAM APEX, only the rear derailleur is GR,

    The wheels are just crap, have to change them,

    But it rides amazing :)


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  • Superb find! I always loved the Mi 90 mountainbike.

  • This is really cool, I've never seen one of these!

    How old is it?

  • I believe early's 90, but there is no info online,
    I bought it monday, and went for a ride yesterday after work, 20 kms (+/-), there are some things that i have to check.

    Brakes.. they don't brake, only slow down the bike
    Front deraileur has to be checked, not working ok,
    The front whell is a cheap Origin 8 hub with shit rim, so, when i brake, it start to "shake" the fork, i think that its something about the brake surface in the rim.

    Don't know if i will keep it 2x10, or go for 1x11

  • so, when i brake, it start to "shake" the fork, i think that its something about the brake surface in the rim.

    This is a problem inherent to cantilever brakes, not just your front rim. It is caused by flex in the fork when braking. You could install a cable hanger at or as near to the crown of the fork as you can, make sure your headset is tight and angle your brake pads slightly toe in. These will all help, not your rim's brake surface

  • Yes indeed, welcome to cantilever brakes. When V brakes came out circa '96 we all flew over our handlebars the first time we braked

  • So.. no rim problem, only brake problems,

    So if i continue with canti brakes, i will allways have this same problem ?

    i prefer the look of canti over Vbrakes in this kind of bike.

  • This link explains it quite well

    https://www.velonews.com/2010/09/cyclocross/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-return-to-cross_101807

    You can minimise it. Ultimately it is the length of cable between the cable stop and the brake which causes the problem, hence finding a cable stop to use near the fork crown

  • This would help, as well as lowering the straddle cable, but I've experienced brake judder caused by a wobbly front wheel, so check that anyway.

  • Right now is like that:

    Will buy one of those cable hangers ASAP, also have to buy new bar tape and tyres ( 35c are just to big)


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  • For now, on my BUY LIST i have

    Cable Hanger (will buy the one on the post from @Lolo )
    Bartape - Black
    Tyres - right now they are 35c but clearence is... there is no cleareance at all.

    Sugestions please...


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  • You’ll clear 35 easy if you go with something less knobbly. Gravelkings come to mind...

  • is it just me or do the forks really look bent?

  • So, after your comment, I went to the Portuguese forum where I found the assembly of this bike, and the owner add a situation of braking hard (40kms/h) and then e fell out of the bike, he didn’t crashed, but after a few days he realized that the fork was a bit bent
    He send it to a bike guru, who trued the fork

    But now, seeing the pictures, I think it is back again

    Attached are the pictures from the beginning of the assembly and other after that situation


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  • i’d deff repace that..

  • I’ve searched eBay, and the threaded ones that I have found are quite expensive...

    If someone have a spare one, and are able to ship to Portugal, please pm

  • So, this happened...

    Had the chance to buy a Nordest Prototype (in black), for a very nice price.

    it will take a long time to build it, and the LOOK might be sold, if anyone is interested, can sell the f+f or completed (a need fork is allready on it way).

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Look Mi.50

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