what's the best way to repair this...?

My Moulton has developed an annoying hairline crack in the seat post at the point that it is intersected by the crossbar - as shown in the pics below. Obviously it needs to be fixed, but I need advice on the best way to do this. Any suggestions would be gratefully received, also - any recommendations on who might be able to do this for me, or should I just take it to a bloke with a welder?

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Where are you based?

My first port of call would be to send these pictures to Winston Vaz, then give him a call.

North London, so this could work, though I'll have to overcome my innate fear of south London first.

Take back the paint a bit. You never know

i'll have a look, but it's powder coat which doesn't tend to crack of its own accord.

I think that is liekly to be a crack. It is also likely to be a monumental pain in the arse to resolve.

Speak to Winston, but I fear he will say it's not a goer. Failing that speak to Moulton and see what they suggest, as they probably know someone game.

Thanks. I spoke to Winston and he's saying its not something he could do. Moulton have long since moved on since making these things and aren't any help, but I'll consult the moulton preservation society and see what they say...

Ask Geoff Roberts, he might be up for the challenge!

Hi all I am new to this site I have twoCharles Roberts bicycles and I’m trying to find information about
Both belong to the same lady who live in Farnham first or last name was Rose
Numbers on the black bike stem is 3881

There are no numbers on the stem
Of the blue bike only on the bottom of the frame
Please see photos

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Email Geoff Roberts. His dad would have made those

Hello All,

I have a Litespeed Ghisallo 02 frame with an inbuilt derailleur hanger. I rounded a bolt on my etap rear mech and can't get the damn thing off. I've tried chill blasting it/penetrating oil etc but with no effect.

Any ideas? Or could someone suggest a good LBS, E London for me to take it to?

Hammer a torx key that is slightly too big into it, the bolt is aluminium so should be soft enough to work. You only get one shot though, so go big or go home.

Hello,

I will try that. Many thanks!

Sorry I've no pictures of the actual frame but we realised last night that on my mate's frame the non drive side seat stay hase come away at the seat cluster.

It's this style (albeit not quite as nice a frame as this!)

I have mapp, I have sifbronze, I have boric acid powder as recommended by @coldharbour.

Likelihood I can make an effective repair?

Anything I need to think about?

The area is painted so will need to get that off (owner is ok with paintwork getting shafted), will remove the seatpost, just try and get some braze right in there then build up a bit of a fillet?

Edit: just looking at that photo, do I need to think about whether the seat stay is vented? That seat stay will have a brazed on cap right? If the frame I'm trying to fix is the same, is there much chance I melt that braze or would it have been done with higher temp stuff?

Edit: just looking at that photo, do I need to think about whether the seat stay is vented? That seat stay will have a brazed on cap right? If the frame I'm trying to fix is the same, is there much chance I melt that braze or would it have been done with higher temp stuff?

If you're just brazing the seat stay onto the side of the seatpost lug then venting isn't an issue. The seat stay may have a brazed on cap, or it may have a top eye fitted - a big cast braze-on fitted to the end of the seatstay like one of these:

If it's a top eye then you should be fine with brass. If it's a thin plate brazed on the end of the seat stay then I'd suggest using silver rather than brass to reattach the seatstay - the lower working temperature will ensure the end plate isn't affected.

Thanks for that.

I'm sure I must have seen these top eyes on the ceeway site before, dunno why I was thinking a plate was the only way to do it.

I figure it'll be the top eye due to the quality of the frame, as it looks a simpler job, the plate way would take more 'fitting' I reckon?

Yes, the plate method is much more labour-intensive. If it's a mass-produced frame then I suspect it'll have top eyes fitted.

Managed to snap both gear shifters on my Campagnolo levers. Had a little look around and seems like I can replace the levers myself but can't find the replacement parts themselves. Any idea?

These jobbies?

https://www.jejamescycles.com/campagnolo-ec-ch429-complete-left-shifting-lever-tke5844.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpbDFwLDa2gIVxfZRCh2L4gbbEAQYASABEgJHl_D_BwE

(EDIT - I have no idea. I don't Campag)

They're 2007/8 and the spare part reference numbers are EC-CH429 (left) and EC-CH428 (right).

The "CH" in those references stands for "Chorus": the same levers were used for all groupsets except Record.

A quick Duckle of those references finds a number of stockists, but if all else fails try http://www.velotech-cycling.ltd.uk/ who are the main UK technical centre, run by GFK_Velo on here.

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Thanks for the help everyone

I've picked up older Campag spares from iride before they have tons of stuff listed, Geoffrey Butler in Croydon worth checking too.

https://www.i-ride.co.uk/catalogue/i-ride/components/campagnolo-spares/#/page/1/sort/PriceHighToLow/min/0/max/179/facets/

http://www.gbcycles.co.uk/c/68/Campagnolo-Spares

Been meaning to post these. Stuck the busy side back on and reinforced the other side.

Broken side is a bit blobby but hey, the bigger the gob the better the job right?

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How about this... Safe to ride?

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I'm semi-serious, not bothered about aesthetics, it's only a leader AX... Could it be fixed with a welded gusset or sleeve? Ropey but (reasonably) safe is ok, I'd just be using it as a pub bike...