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• #2
Wheels -
Looking at the Hunt SuperDura dynamo wheel set - gravel rims, disc hubs and a Son dynamo for £500 seems like a pretty good option. -
• #3
Burls have very competitive prices for their custom frames, did you check them out? They are welded in Russia but that's not a bad thing and only heard excellent things about him. I'm drawing up a frame and specs and commissioning one from them in the next few weeks.. T
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• #4
I'm looking at Burls as one option - I have a road fixed frame they built that I bought second-hand that I like. But I'm curious about some of the other builders out there - Enigma, Reilly, etc. I was quite keen on the Kinesis GF Ti disc but heard a couple of bad stories and saw one with what looked like a catastrophic rear triangle failure on LEL, so not so sure about them now.
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• #5
Lynskey?
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• #6
You can build the hunt wheels yourself with some kinlin rims and whatever hubs you fancy, and save a bit of moolah...
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• #7
This titanium list is off the top of my head (as you can see I've been thinking about this too much!)
UK-based titanium brands
- Albannach (unknown but probably overseas, custom)
- Burls (made in Russia, custom)
- Enigma (made in UK and Asia, custom & OTP)
- Kinesis (made in Asia, OTP)
- IRIS (unknown but probably overseas, OTP?)
- J.Laverack (made in Asian, custom & OTP)
- Mason (made in Italy, OTP)
- Planet X (made in Asia, OTP)
- Pretorius (made in Asia, custom & OTP)
- Reilly (titanium frames manufactured overseas, probably in the same place as Enigma, custom & OTP)
- Sabbath (unknown but almost certainly overseas, OTP)
- Sonder/Alpkit (OTP)
- Spa (unknown but almost certainly overseas, OTP)
- Ted James Design (built by the man himself in the UK, custom)
If you're looking at Russia, Triton would be the best candidate and build quality wise, would appear to be pretty damn good.
The "middle-ground" would probably be Burls, the Kinesis GF Ti Disc (might not have clearance for your requirements), Enigma (the Escape), J. Laverack JACK (clearance an issue again) and maybe a Reilly Gradient (but I can't find much anecdotal feedback or reviews).
In the end I counter-productively picked a carbon bike (an Open U.P.) but I'll circle back to Ti.
- Albannach (unknown but probably overseas, custom)
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• #8
Kinesis Tripster ATR seems to get good reviews and has plenty of tyre clearance if you go otp.
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• #9
Also I guess the Genesis Croix De Fer Ti and Sonder/Alpkit Camino, but these I'd consider to be more off-road and less road/endurance geometry.
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• #10
Sounds like a good build Matt!
I'd second DJ's suggestion of a Lynskey. I love my audax. After 3 years of abuse still looks almost new after a hose down. The cross model will take the tyres you want.
Looking forward to seeing how this comes along.
Good luck.
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• #11
I've seen a couple of cool frames online from Wittson. I believe they're in china. Another one to consider
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• #12
Just wondering how repairable a Ti bike would be if on a trip to remote parts. I'd always asssumed steel was king so you could turn up anywhere and get a frame repaired. I'm thinking not many village work shops will have Ti welding rods?
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• #13
Just fix it with some zip ties
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• #14
Wittson are based in Lithuania, they do great work but unfortunately they charge in Euros, so unfortunately what would have cost us £1600 a couple of years ago is now almost £2100 :(
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• #15
Ah fair my bad. Yeah their work looks brilliant
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• #17
If you're going that far you're probably not going to take a Ti Audax / gravel bike but a proper touring bike
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• #18
That's my point, in the opening post h2o says Patagonia is a possible target...
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• #19
Jimbo! didn't recognise you for a second there. How you been?
I've been eyeing up the lynskey sportive as an option, as it goes up to 32mm in the disc version, and it's the one US brand that seems to be swallowing some of the exchange rate nonsense for us poor Brexit-afflicted souls. But how would you feel pointing it down rough unpaved roads? I'm mainly going to use this bike on Britain's usual potholed roads, but want to be able to deal with some outback roads - not proper MTB stuff, just the crappy hardpack earth roads you get in the middle of nowhere in the Americas, or reclaimed trainlines like the Camel Trail in Cornwall.
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• #20
Just wondering how repairable a Ti bike would be if on a trip to remote parts. I'd always asssumed steel was king so you could turn up anywhere and get a frame repaired. I'm thinking not many village work shops will have Ti welding rods?
I have a steel bike in the form of the Condor if that bothers me, but having seen a botch job where someone welded small steel strips around a broken Ti chainstay (was it on TCR? can't remember) I think I'd rather go for all the other benefits of Ti rather than the tiny risk that I'll end up in that situation. (The Ti bike I saw ruined on LEL appeared not to have a replaceable hanger, and that's where the failure happened - choosing a bike with a replaceable hanger seems an easy way around that).
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• #21
Very preliminarily, here's my thoughts on OTP frames. I might come back and edit this...
Audax-oriented
Kinesis GF TI Disc (30mm without guards 28 with)
Lynskey Sportive (32mm - with or without?)
Enigma Evoke disc (28mm - with guards I think)
September Sabbath (28mm with guards)Gravelly
Enigma Escape -(42mm - with or without?)
Lynskey Cooper (42mm - with or without?)
Lynskey GR 250 (45mm - with or without?)
Reilly Gradient (44mm without guards I think)
Kinesis Tripster ATR (40mm with guards, or 45mm without)
Mason Bokeh (41mm - with or without? plus they won't email me back about the Ti version)I've had a bike fit but am a little unsure how the various lines they've drawn on the PDF translate to the usual metrics, so the next step is to figure that out and see what frames look like the best fit. 28mm with guards doesn't really change much from my Fratello, so leaning towards those with space for larger volume.
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• #22
When I asked earlier this year, the Mason Bokeh titanium frame was priced very close to £3000 (maybe £2800-£2900) for just the frame and fork, which is very much on the pricey side for an OTP frame. From what I hear as well, production can't keep up with demand so a considerable wait might also be involved.
Bokeh clearance is 70x41mm without mudguards.
Mudguards are a personal thing obviously, but depending on how you use the bike and you might not miss them as much as you think. I found that a combination of a rear saddlepack (e.g. Apidura) and an Ass Saver Fendor Bendor tolerable enough when cycling through 3-4 hours of non-stop rain.
Doesn't help if you're cycling with friends though of course.
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• #23
After months of agonising, I think I’ve made some decisions.
Hunt SuperDura Son dynamo wheels (700c), tyres TBD
Cycle2charge V2 USB socket and a pass through battery cache pack. Likely an Exposure Revo light as I already have a rear light that can take charge from it.
SRAM groupset- Long cage rear mech and XD hub. Leaning towards a force 1x setup, still mulling the second chainring though
Reilly Gradient frame and fork - it’ll take fat tyres or even 650s, but the reviews suggest it’s not too sluggish as an endurance road bike. Plus it has a lifetime warranty for the original buyer, which kinda swings it. Need to fix a time to go down to Brighton and inspect one though, just to make sure and to get the frame sizing right. Oh, and check the replaceable hanger thing.
Pedals - Atac Xc8s
Saddle - probably a slim cutout Cambium saddle
bars and seatpost TBD.
Fenders - TBD, some that aren’t too hard to remove and store when I put off-road tyres on it.
So - I figured I'd start logging this project on the forum in the hope that a) it'll help me get on with actually doing it, and b) to get some input from the Lufguss hive mind.
The basic idea is:
Ti because it's light and soaks up the road buzz and doesn't corrode.
Audax/endurance geo (similar to my Condor Fratello), but with space for tyres up to about 35-38mm with mudguards
Dynamo w/USB charging because carrying endless battery packs is a ball ache.
I'll slap aero bars on for long haul riding, but won't have them on most of the time.
I'm still very torn between 1x and a normal compact setup. I'm leaning towards SRAM either way as I like the idea of being able to cross the chain and not worry too much about it. I do like the oldish Campag setup I have on my Fratello though.
I don't really want to go electronic shifting because I want something I can fix myself out on the road. I'm debating whether to go full hydro or cable-actuated hydro for the brakes for the same reason - I'd quite like to do Patagonia in the next year or two, so self-sufficiency would be A Good Thing.
The other big question is whether to go OTP or custom. The post-referendum exchange rate means US builders aren't really an option, so I'm looking at a UK builder or a Russian builder (the ruble has been faring pretty badly in recent years). I know many of the UK builders get their stuff done abroad too, but they're doing it in the east and seem to be keeping their pricing realistic for the UK market. Either way, there are now quite a few OTP frames that look like they're in the right ballpark for what I'm after, so the custom thing is a bit of a last resort.
Will post further updates as I narrow down my component choices and figure out which frame to go for...