Black Langster / street

It's a new build - from scratch, having had my second bike stolen in 3 years (Whyte 805, Trek Madone 2.1) and I've decided to get a single gear one this time but build it myself.

I fell in love with the Langster Pro frame even though it's a track frame and frame/fork is not drilled for brakes.

What I have so far:

Specialized Langster Pro Track Frameset 2016
Cinelli Mash Bullhorn Road Handlebar
Miche Pistard WR Track Bike Wheelset
Continental Grand Prix 4000S II Folding Road 23c

SRAM Truvativ Omnium GXP Track Crankset 165mm 48T - Thanks @Scilly.Suffolk and @fixedPIl
SRAM GXP Team Bottom Bracket Tungsten English Thread
KMC K710 Single Speed Chain 1/8"
Sturmey Archer 1/2 x 1/8" Single Speed Freewheel

Shimano 105 5800 Brake Caliper Black
SRAM 500 TT Time Trial/Triathlon Brake

Specialized Romin Pro saddle
Specialized Comp Multi Stem 12 degree

Couple of things to consider:

• I am a complete naive beginner yet not a clumsy guy but still

• frame - it says 2014 on its sticker, 2015 on the box, yet sold as 2016! What is it?!

• wheels not suitable for brakes - people use them with a front brake without issue

• fork not drilled for brakes but I will sort that out

• handlebars not drilled but will also sort this out as I will be using an internal routed brake

• not concerned with warranty void - this bike will stick with me

• 8 mins commuting to work, possibly double in the future (one way) so not a hardened cyclist

I am still unclear about a few things:

• will the chain fit or will I need a tool to take off links?

• do I need a spacer on each side of the bottom bracket? I've researched and there are mixed opinions. BB shell is a Cr-Mo axle, 68mm x 103mm.

• how to fix a bumpy tyre, especially where the valve is - have taken air out and watched some YouTube videos but still, couldn't fix it

• cranks issue - the cranks will not spin unless force is applied but if I loose the drive side bolt a bit then the arms would spin easily, don't know what to do here

• size of handlebars hole and where should it be positioned, I guess in the middle and the hole should be somehow angled towards the middle?

• I bought that stem so I can adjust its angle if needed but I don't know, should I do it or not really?

Thanks!

Get a second fork! one that's already drilled :)

I'd say the middle at the back about an inch or two from the stem will be the least stress area to drill if you're set on doing that. And yeah you'd want to drill a small pilot hole and then angle at 45 for a smooth cable run out the bar.
Edit: do some research on this. If you do it wrong, they're gonna crack, and dentists aren't cheap.

The chain will come with more links than you need, you will need a chain tool to remove a couple before fitting

Top tube drilling ferules came off a tarmac and you will need long drop brakes.

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But why? First of all, I will not be selling this and second, where do I find forks like these? eBay? Can't find anything, I've looked for a new one, same colour, but nothing yet.

The front brake should be enough, I guess.

Ebay had a set of red langster pro forks up for sale the other week.

You got it then :)
haters gonna hate, pacef8 has done what you want so it's doable. Doable dosen't always equate to good in the eyes of fourm members.

Brave move buying a new frame to modify, cheapo hack to play with first would have been good to play with and learn on.
Ask questions, do research, default to having a bike shop do work and pay them to do something right first attempt.
So 13 questions.........

1) If in doubt take part to shop to be altered.
2) Frame colours change with model years, it could be that the frame was 2014 but hasn't altered, or the shop has mis-sold a new old stock at full RRP. Check colour ways on framesets over last few years. Could also mean your colour is a constant.
3)Some wheels are track only and not designed for braking. Some do not have a machined brake track (possibly your choice) so anodizing will wear off and braking power may be reduced while this happens. A machined brake track is better.
4)See answer one 1.
5)See answer one. Fairly simple, research before drilling.
6)warranty not required so no worry.
7)See answer one. Or buy a chain tool and learn to use it. very simple and cheap tool.
8)Drive side spacer might be handy depending on chainring size and chainstay clearance. Test fit and check and adjust, remove adjust, refit, try again until correct.
9)Bumpy tyre ? fit tyre to rim, inflate to max PSI, leave for a few days, see if that fixes it.
10)Unfamilar with Omnoms, but assume too much preload, or BB shell needs facing off.
11)See answers 1 & 5
13) No idea haven't looked it up. Stems are easy to swap out and cheap enough. Adjustable stem to dial things in, then measure up and get right angle and length later on.

It was more for convenience than anything else, saves you the hassle of drilling the fork- but if you're alright with drilling it crack on, fair play to you

Fortunately my mate is the same size as myself and works in a spesh shop so it was a no brainier.
He did all the work but the back brake was a faff when i changed the gear ratio.

Seen that too, not the right colour really.

I get you now.

Provided I will find the same colour/state, its price would be way too much compared to what I'll pay the bike shop for drilling the current one, I hope.

Thanks a lot for your advice! Will soon come and post photos or ask more stupid questions.

Jealous, always wanted a Langster Pro but they're like hens teeth now, particularly in very small sizes. Looking forward to seeing this built up.

Are you planning on running this with a freewheel and only a front brake?

This^ if so dont! Also if you're going to be using brakes, deffinitely go for brakes with a machined brake track as mentioned above.

How did you drill your Langster frame?

I didn't and don't intend to drill it! Will only have a front brake.

Yes and switch every now and again with a fixed cog so I can get used to it.

You need to be able to brake in two separate ways, in case one fails.

So that's either two brake calipers or one brake caliper and back pedalling, which won't work with a freewheel.

Two work friends went with the 'one brake and freewheel' route, both have had the brake cable snap inevitably at times when they really needed it!

I will get a few picks of the cable holes and riveting for the inquisitive.

I get that, OK, but I didn't even consider this as I never had a brake fail on me? As I said, my commute to work is quite short, less than 2 miles and I rarely go Super Man.

A well as the safety issues, it's a legal requirement! :)