Copper grease-anti seize

Hi I want to know if copper grease is a good anti seize agent to stop the headset cups seizing or cold welding into the frame.

It's an Aluminium frame and Aluminium headset cups.

Or should I be looking for a more specialised anti seize compound?

I asked in Halfords and Wilkos but they didn't have anything then I went to the local bike shop and he recommended copper grease, is this a good recommendation?

I searched in the forum for 'copper grease' btw, before anyone writes back telling me to do a search.

yes it is

What you're looking for is 'copper slip' - it's damn effective but an absolute arse to get rid off iff you get it on clothes, hands etc

One one tub lasts for ages. I bought my one and only 500ml tub so far in about 1998 and it's still going strong, both on bike and motorbike :-)

I use it on the bolts for the alloys on the car, makes getting them out a cinch. Everything and anything with a thread that'll generally be in place for a long time should have a dab of the stuff put on (mudguard & rack eyelets especially!).
I'm an advocate on BB tapers/crank interface too though some are not keen on that

Copperslip / antiseize for anything that doesn't move. Grease (Red / Phil) for the rest, or lithium if you intend to replace the grease a lot.

This stuff is the equivilent of copperslip, and yes, it's a bugger to get off anything.

Personally I don't grease tapers but will grease the interference fits on modern cranks if advised by the manufacturer

I hate copperslip, even years later it will stain your clothes.

Vehicle wheelnuts should always be torqued up bone dry.
Almost everyone in the trade will tell you this.
Lubrication of any kind alters the torque values and increases the chances of bolts loosening.

I have a jumper that still has copperslip on it from 3 years ago!

I got some copper grease from halfords, it says anti seize compound on the package, should be ok.

I favour copaslip or Parks anti-seize which I think has colloidal ally (as opposed to colloidal copper) for Ti frames or any other threading on bikes...

I got pulled over once by the police near hereford in mid 90's, the WPC found some copper slip in a cigar packet in my car cos id been fixing the brakes, then she tried to taste it thinking it was drugs and got brown muck all over her face... Good times.

Vehicle wheelnuts should always be torqued up bone dry.
Almost everyone in the trade will tell you this.
Lubrication of any kind alters the torque values and increases the chances of bolts loosening.

This is likely to be both right and very wrong.

Right:

Vehicle wheelnuts should always be torqued up bone dry.

If the manufacturer has designed them to be done dry, that's what you should do.

Lubrication of any kind alters the torque values

If you add lubrication, the relationship between tightening torque and bolt tension changes

Wrong:

increases the chances of bolts loosening.

If you use the dry torque value on a lubed bolt, it will have more tension; this makes it less likely to loosen. It might also exceed the tensile limit of the bolt in some situations, which is why you're stuck with the dumb designers decision.

Very wrong:

Designing a threaded connection to be assembled without lubrication, except in very specific circumstances where contamination from the lubricant is a bigger problem than the myriad problems which unlubricated threads create.

I bought my one and only 500ml tub so far in about 1998 and it's still going strong, both on bike and motorbike :-)

I can beat that, mine is from 1988, also on a mix of powered and unpowered single track vehicles.

To be honest it's probably about time I started thinking about buying another tub.

Use it always, even if you are not the one that has to disasemble the pieces later the next owner will appreciate it.

For the average home mechanic you will be able to leave a half used tub to your grandchildren.

And for the rest of you, one isn't supposed to do bicycle maintanance in one's Sunday best.

Agree. A while back, I disassembled a bottom bracket that hadn't been touched for about 10 years. I was glad that whoever built it packed a load of coppaslip in there.