The "do everything" tank - Surly LHT

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  • On it's way to me with great thanks to Pete BareNecessities:

    Help - I'm opening this up for discussion in the hope that the infinite wisdom of a singlespeed/fixed forum will help me build a slightly rad, but very functional geared bike that can handle anything you throw at it be that rain, war, light touring, invasions, audaxes, beach landings, long night rides, (maybe heavy touring if I get my act together and man up) and commuting.

    Feel free to post your own LHT or similar for inspiration, I've worked on so many 'functional' bikes at the shop, but am a bit lost when it comes to speccing my own.

    No more rain and mudguards for the Somec, which now needs a thorough clean and some TLC.

  • 1x10; decent stopping power mini V's ; what else?

  • Looks shit.

    Subscribed

  • :)

    Pretty sure I'm saying no to DT shifters, just because they're soooo low on big frames. Anyone use bar end shifters? Never used them, so troubling to see the obvious benefits if you're gonna be spending most of the time in the hoods.

    1x10 sounds OK, but I'd like a bigger range I think (?)

  • Shimano Deore, best bang-for-buck in shifting (if you plan on running a MTB block)

  • Avoid mini vs is you want to use that clearance. Get proper Vs. You could get a disc trucker fork? I'd make it a tourer/camping bike. Any 110bcd double chainset and mtb mech will be peachy (I hate the q factor of mtb chainsets).

    A mate rides megamiles on one of these with indexed DT shifters. It's actually changed his riding style, he doesn't change gear much and cadence is sometimes pretty low (much like riding fixed actually). I'm riding with DT shifters this winter and I can feel the same happening!

  • Mini-v's should provide you with enough clearance I think?

    Bar end shifters look awesome I'd love to try them, give them a go i say

  • then why not retroshift

  • Will mini vs clear 2" tyres and guards?

    I don't think so.

  • ^ also true

    standard V's then

  • Where does he say he want 2" tyres?

  • Where does he say he wants to never fit big tyres?

    ;)

    The clearance is there. Why limit your future options?

  • Shimano Deore, best bang-for-buck in shifting (if you plan on running a MTB block)

    Thinking out of the box here, would a mixed Deore and Sora/105 set work? I.e. 10 speed brifters, with a long cage MTB mech and cassette?

    Avoid mini vs is you want to use that clearance. Get proper Vs. You could get a disc trucker fork? I'd make it a tourer/camping bike. Any 110bcd double chainset and mtb mech will be peachy (I hate the q factor of mtb chainsets).

    A mate rides megamiles on one of these with indexed DT shifters. It's actually changed his riding style, he doesn't change gear much and cadence is sometimes pretty low (much like riding fixed actually). I'm riding with DT shifters this winter and I can feel the same happening!
    I agree on the Q factor side... about the cadence though, isn't that a bad thing?

  • Pretty sure I'm saying no to DT shifters, just because they're soooo low on big frames.

    Good move - they do feel particularly low on that frame.

    I was using mtb gearing 26/36/46 with a 11-28 8spd cassette. The 26x28 seemed fine for steep hills, even fully laden. Never really used the 46t, so changed the chainrings to 26/38 or 40.

    Any thoughts on the wheels? I had 36 spoke A719s on XT hubs and they were 'bombproof' but pretty heavy.

    For reference, SKS P45 and Schwalbe marathon 37 left a decent clearance. You could probably get a 40c in there if you wanted to.

  • also, why V brakes and not cantis? Thinking about long vs short pull issues with using brifters

  • For reference, SKS P45 and Schwalbe marathon 37 left a decent clearance. You could probably get a 40c in there if you wanted to.

    Good to know, although they also do the 'Hybrid' model that clears 45c (too wide for me I think)

  • I agree on the Q factor side... about the cadence though, isn't that a bad thing?

    Not really. If you want to up your natural cadence do more miles. Audax/distance riders don't spin all day then sprint (road-race style) so they don't 'train' to do that. Instead there is a bit of looking up the road, keeping things clam and keeping the heart-rate happy (if you follow). Most Audax riders I know have really good muscular endurance, and this is why. It's also (incidentally) what road riders traditionally spend there time on in February.

  • NDS, but quite a nice looking build*.

    *cables excepted

  • also, why V brakes and not cantis? Thinking about long vs short pull issues with using brifters

    This is sticky...

    You will want the power of Vs if you ride it on trails or loaded (or even just down hills!).

  • I'd be tempted to try DT shifters and if you need them higher... move them.

    http://kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html
    http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbies.html

  • Anyone use bar end shifters? Never used them, so troubling to see the obvious benefits if you're gonna be spending most of the time in the hoods.

    1x10 sounds OK, but I'd like a bigger range I think (?)

    Stick with 8 speed, you'll still get the same range, just a bigger jump between each cog, plus with 8 speed, everything's very cheap and obtainable (£5 chain, £15 cassette, etc.), they'll also last for a long time as the chain tend to be stronger (read: fatter).

    Get a 2x10 groupset instead, get a cheap Tiagra compact double with 105 BB, if you plan on touring in future, just get a double now rather than a single and end up changing it in future.

    bar-end shifters is much more direct than STi, you don't need high end component to have that crisp gear change, basic Deore/Claris would be fine, I concur with this;

    Shimano Deore, best bang-for-buck in shifting (if you plan on running a MTB block)

    Wheel's easy, no less than 32h, double walled double eyelet will last you eons, like a Rigida Sputnik or a Mavic A319, latter is recommended.

  • The price diff between tiagra and 105 is £35 but i get ed's point of cheap consumables

  • no Rotor XC3 then....

  • Apollo just grab whatever compact crankset you can afford and get a decent BB.

    i.e. go for 105 external BB instead of the Tiagra (better sealing and bearing).

  • no Rotor XC3 then....

    well agilis on other hand ;)

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The "do everything" tank - Surly LHT

Posted by Avatar for ObiWomKenobi @ObiWomKenobi

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