Pompetamine SSCX Build - Advise needed!

Hi guys, I am building up an SSCX bike for use as a commuter during the year and fun bike for winter!

I have purchased a brand new black pompetamine frame and i am currently sourcing the kit to go on this. I would appreciate any advice from experienced cx bike users/ builders...

I have some experience building from frame-up (6 bikes to date) but these have been mtb's, road bikes and fixies.

I'm thinking the spec will be something like:

Frame: On One Pompetamine Black Large
Forks: On One Pompetamine Black (upgrade to carbon or Tange prestige later)
Headset: Chris King/ Hope 1 1/8" Black
Bottom Bracket: Truvativ GXP Team Dark Silver
Front Hub: Hope Pro2 Evo QR Black
Rear Hub: Hope Pro2 Evo Trials/SS (135mm) m10 Black
Rims: Mavic XM819 Disc 29er (UST Tubeless Ready)
Tyres: Continental Cyclocross Race 700 x 35c
Brakes F+R: TRP Hylex 160mm
Chain: quality corrosion resistant!?
Chainset: SRAM RED Chainset
Seatpost: Thomson Elite Inline 27.2 Black 400mm
Stem: Thomson Elite X2 Road Stem 100mm +/-10 Black
Bars: Maybe Tomson, 3tt or Pro?
Bar Tape: ?? (something durable in the wet..)
Saddle: Specialized Romin Pro
Pedals - Deore XT atb pedals
Rear Sprocket: Gusset DoubleSix Cog 18t ??

I would appreciate any advice/opinion on the parts I have not yet purchased.

Primarily the sprocket/chain, front chainring and possibly bash guard..?

Thanks in advance! :D

I have already ordered the following (pictured):

9 Attachments

Longer stem and compact bars.

The stem is interesting, the hoods on the levers are quite long and wondering if that will affect my reach... 120mm stem better?

Longer stem and compact bars.

Wrong.

He needs a larger frame, much larger, and a smaller stem.

not that I'm an experienced cx rider/builder, but I'd suggest you check online for something like sram red/force/rival crankset on sale. Found rly cheap set of reds (gxp) for my sscx and they feel solid and amazingly smooth after years of square taper.

Hy/Rd over Hylex will give you freedom to chose brake levers and easy switch-ability between bikes with a cost of maybe 5% less direct feel of the brake.

Wrong.

He needs a larger frame, much larger, and a smaller stem.

Apparently you know how tall I am? I know how to size a frame, I have cross checked all the measurements with my road bike and this size will suit me fine - gives me 1" extra standover while being the same length, the angles are also very similar.

Thanks for opinion on brakes, I've done a custom build for a friend using HY/RD - fantastic, but you still get the friction from the cable and I want this bike to be as internal/durable as possible. I have 6 other bikes so won't be swapping these across anytime, I reckon hylex are ideal for sscx, and I have had the opportunity to test - but I appreciate your comment!

I tested Hylex last week; wasnt impressed for a direct system .. my comparison point was V twin with compression-less housing.

Interesting, what did you find was missing? V-twin is cool.

People, I would appreciate if (like I said) you would comment on the parts I have not yet ordered and require advice on - rather than criticising the parts I have already ordered.

Please no more comments on frame size, I will order stem ect accordingly once I have the frame and can test things out.

Thanks

aw shit if you're already ordered them go for it!

Its not bad but its not as much as I expected from a 'direct' system. I use hydraulic brakes on my MTB as well.

Soul on here had (has?) Hylex.

Make sure you get 10mm shorter stem or reach on bars as Hylex levers are pretty long.

Thought so, I'll factor that in! Cheers

Picked up some SRAM RED cranks from robadob http://www.lfgss.com/thread121570.html Cheers for that amey.

Thanks for opinion on brakes, I've done a custom build for a friend using HY/RD - fantastic, but you still get the friction from the cable and I want this bike to be as internal/durable as possible.

If there's friction from the cable, it's not done up properly, it can be 100% frictionless like a hydraulic.

It is marginal, but there is still a cable in an outer casing. I also tried out a brand new whyte cross bike with hy/rd and although it was better than cable disc, the action wasn't quite the same as a direct system.

Apparently you know how tall I am? I know how to size a frame, I have cross checked all the measurements with my road bike and this size will suit me fine - gives me 1" extra standover while being the same length, the angles are also very similar.

I was taking the piss out of Hulsroy

I was taking the piss out of Hulsroy

Damn. Sorry!

Is this bike for racing?

Some thoughts:

Are there any UST CX tyres? A quick google doesn't yield much. From my MTB experience UST is a bit meh. Weighty compared to Stans with no obvious advantage.

I'd lean towards Iron Cross rims for CX, but they are race rims, so if this bike is just for mucking about then Crest would be a better option. Or even A23s. Sorry if that's not what you want to hear.

If you do run the UST rims then you'll need valves. You can cough up for the UST specific ones or just cut out some decent valves from a sacrificial inner tube. You'll need sealant if you go down that route, but I run UST tyres with sealant anyway. I like to make heavy things heavier ;)

You'll need a GXP bb for the Red crank - there's a GXP converter for CK and Hope 24mm BBs but what's the point when the GPX BB seems pretty bomb proof out of the box. Make sure you get the BB shell faced.

Tape: Lizard Skins, obvs

Saddle: whatever you like. I like my Gobi Carbon, but the dent it made in my pocket...

Bars: again it's personal, but compacts with a well contoured top work well for me.

It would be worth hitting up Soul regarding his experience with Hylex.

It is marginal, but there is still a cable in an outer casing. I also tried out a brand new whyte cross bike with hy/rd and although it was better than cable disc, the action wasn't quite the same as a direct system.

A mechanical disc would give you the direct feel like the TRP Spyre after they fixed the issues.

I had excellent performance with the BB7 Road, the only nag is that only one pad move rather than both pads.

On a serious note, when did you order the Hylex? Haven't they got a major fault? The sealing means they piss fluid?

Not critiscising, just concerned innit.

The problem with Hylex is not that they don't work - although I've heard they don't work well - it's that not many people own them. It means it takes longer for problems to come to light and for fixes to be issued. Troubleshooting and repairs will be more difficult than they should be.

BB7s / Spyres for an easy life.

Hylex is also a first gen fully enclosed hydraulic road brakes as well on top of that whether the mechanical disc have been around for a long time enough for people to find and address problem, as well as suggestion for improvement (such as choice of levers, compressionless housing, etc.).

By the time hydraulic have starting to come out, the problem with cable pull disc have been ironed out.

Ha!

Got to be installed yet so lets hold off on the celebrations...

replacing your full hydros? if so, how come?

They're horrible to maintain.

Both the front and rear have manufacturing defects which means they lose mineral oil. The bleed kit doesn't contain all the parts needed to bleed them and even when I got the parts, the defect prevents them from being refilled.

Currently the front runs at about 60% of when it was new (getting worse on every use) and the rear is completely non-operational after trying to bleed it.

Basically, they're great when they work but they're awful quality. The HY/RDs are getting better reviews in terms of build quality and maintenance so i'm switching to them.

What system is that?

If you mean the one's i'm getting rid of, it's TRP Hylex

.

Yup, I've read these comments - supposedly there was a batch that were shipped with overtightened callipers (this caused damage to olives when attempting to undo pipe at calliper end) Supposedly this was resolved, I know someone who got a set early jan '14 and has nothing but good things to say. We'll just have to see, I have the front now, but the rear is on backorder, 4+ weeks! I might call upgrade and see if they know of any changes being made to these at TRP..

HOWARD - cheers for comments! I'm not fussed about ust anymore, they don't exist for cx, tubulars make sense but i will probably just run some quality conti's. I picked up my 2014 XM819 rims today, very cool with the new ISM milling, and will easily take a 35c tire, which is perfect. Yep, already got a GXP BB, so the cranks made sense! Saddle will probs be a Specialized Romin Pro, I've enjoyed my other Romin.

Which Lizard tape would you recommend? Also, is it possible to run a single ring on the back of the RED cranks and a bash on the front?

Thanks for the help folks

Also - thinking these bars - http://www.tredz.co.uk/.3T-ErgoSum-Pro-Bars_34030.htm?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=AdwordsProductAds&utm_campaign=Adwords&gclid=CPe-_66dtrwCFYUIwwodbzwA9g?

I've used the DSP tape, seems pretty popular, doesn't soak up water and grips well when wet / sandy.

I've got the Ergonova bars on my race bike at the mo - there's a discussion here about the differences. Seems Ergosum is a bit longer, so may require a slightly shorter stem. Either way, both work well and have a nice profiled top.

FSA omega or vero might be worth looking at too. The later is very good value. Both have an non profiled top if a flat isn't your thing.