It's a hard knock life: My vintage lightweight Tweed Run steed.

I am building a bike for the Tweed Run next week. It will be my first run and will be marshalling at it. Really looking forward to it.

My last build ended in disaster, i found out my Woodrup track frame was once in a crash, the TT and DT has ripples. That was a very sad morning.

This is plan two. A possible Andy Bone, I have been told that the frame may not be an Andy Bone and just re-painted buy him. The fame and fork number is 52327. Andy Bone's frames started at 101 in the 1930's and ended at 2289 in the mid 60's.
Bone used to paint and enamel at Mercian before he opened his own shop, this could have been a paint job by him. So the frame is by anyone's guess?

What i do know: The frame looks like it is from the 40's-50's, its very well built. Nervex pro lugs. 27.2 seat post, 531 and lighter than some of my modern bikes. It's had quite a hard life, not due to me i might add. It is a beautiful frame and deserves a second chance....... but i only have a week to find all the parts to build it. painting it back to black in the morning. At some point i will send it to Vaz, but for the time being it will be a Lucky Skull garden special.

My first major issue was the rear derailleur.
Due to the shape of the dropout, none of my rear mechs would fit. I put out the word and asked for some advice from another forum. Turns out it is a simplex pressed dropout.....
Slim chance of finding a mech. So decided to go down an alternative route.

I found an interesting page on someones solution that enables the use of a campag mech on a simplex (forged) dropout......

I then found a guide of how to convert the drop-out. Would a rider of the day have done something like this to make his bike usable? Am i killing a puppy or making it function?

"Simplex Dropout showing the area where the hanger needs to be cut away to work with Campagnolo style derailleurs. The 9mm holes also needs to be tapped out to M10x1.0 or M10x26TPI.

M10x1.0 taps are available at many hardware and auto parts stores for a reasonable price. They're a standard size used for spark plug on some motorcycles and small gas engines."

stronglight crankset kindly donated by J.Dennis

considered leaving the paint as is?

well, i like a rat as much as the next guy, but i'm concerned about its continued life. The paint flakes off if you look at it in the wrong way. I don't want it to end up a heap of rust.......... I do love the way it looks though........ It's a tough one.........

Maybe try and keep the headtube paint and "Andy Bone" decal and lightly spray the rest?

Only an opinion, but why not run it fixed/single for the tweed run, allowing you time to source a period correct rear derailleur that won't require modifying the dropout?

Good plan. Fixed/ss rat for the ride, then sort it all out later if you're heart's really in it.
Those cranks are good for fixed/ss aren't they? Just add TA ring?

That is an idea, i used to ride it fixed when it first came into my life. it is an amazing ride. i think i have maybe tracked down a TA ring....maybe. without that i will be going nowhere fast.

I have a Nuovo Record rear derailleur and gear lever i was hoping to use. In the long term i see that being more functional than the simplex derailleur......... not quite sure what to do now.....

few components i have compiled:

Desperate need of new jockey wheels... but may not end up using it anyway......

I feel like that guy with an angle grinder and file in hand, wanting to carve up a rad fixtie.......... i'm used to being the conservative tutting from the other side of the screen at the bike chopping antics..... i don't like how this shoe fits....

Nervex Pro my friend

Nervex

Pro

i must also point out i am not a conservative, just my views on destroying old frames..........though a little nick out of a dropout is hardly destroying it is it?

Nervex pro bro.

definitely destroying.. don't do it!

This is from sheldon brown(http://sheldonbrown.com/upgrade-gears.html). He would not advise me to kill a puppy:

The Simplex style dropout is fairly common on older, higher-quality French bikes, including the Peugeut PX-10, Gitane Tour De France, Mercier 300, etc. Although the Simplex hanger looks similar to the Campagnolo type, it differs in two important ways: it is not threaded, and it lacks the locating notch on the bottom.

It is not difficult to convert a Simplex hanger to work with a modern derailer. All that is required is to thread it with an appropriate tap, and file a notch into the bottom of it for the "B Tension" screw to bear against.

and drillium is not considered damage. So why is shaping a dropout so i can use it with my chosen derailleur puppy killing? I want to do it, but am having a hard time convincing myself.

just found a picture of a converted drop out, seems like it was a standard thing to do. if done well it will look good and i will sill be able to use a simplex derailleur if i so desire.

My opinion is to tap it out as you planned. But then again I've never restored a classic bike/car/WWII battleship. These things were made to be ridden right?

This quandary is a whole world away from hacking off all the braze-ons and welding on track-ends
As far as I can see it's a period-correct upgrade.
I have no doubt in my mind that you'll do it with the sensitivity it deserves.
No puppies will die here and as you say, a Simplex mech can still be fitted (if desired) and no-one will be any the wiser, but at least you can use the superior (IMHO) NR rear mech.

Far from detracting from it's original form and function, it will be practically invisible and allow for the frame's continued use.

Improvisation and adaptation should be in every cyclists repertoire; the list is endless: crisp packet tyre boots, plastic bottle mudguards, chopping drops into bullhorns and, as you have already pointed out, "drillium".

I say do it. Do you think that the 52 in the serial number refers to the year? The way it's in slightly bigger letters makes it look like that to me...

wooop wooop! Time to get busy! Thanks guys. You have nudged me in the right direction. I am going to mark and gently file it to the correct shape. Also going to try and blend the damaged paint using satin black and keep the head tube paint and seat tube decal.

ncjlee: i had considered it 52 being the date, 1950's is the sort of age i assumed it is. so maybe 52-327? could still be an Andy Bone if that is just a date stamp.....

i have been thinking it could be possibly be a JF Wilson. All the frame details and curved brake bridge points in his direction. i am going to contact them and see what they say.

Would there be room for a detachable rear mech hanger (without removing the current brazed on one?)

I should have one I can give you if you want to try...

(at least as a temporary solution?)

Oh and that rear brake bridge is so nice!! beautiful frame!

thanks Vello, i'm glad i have started to restore it. It wasn't until i picked it up again thatbi realized what a beautiful frame it is.

I have tried a detachable rear mech hanger, but the shape of the dropout wont allow it to lay flat..... it is a real pain. i would like to not alter it in anyway. i want to use a Campagnolo mech, so a little shave is my only option. this is a solution for the short term and long term.