Superia Gemini Cross

Posted this 2 weeks ago in the general Current Projects thread:

Cyclocross season nearly over, but I couldn't resist this.
1980 (approx.) Superia Gemini Cross, almost completely original. One of the famous cyclocross brands from the past.
Ishiwata 022 tubing, Dia Compe cantilever brakes, Ofmega chain set, single chain ring with double guides, Sun Tour Vx rear mech, Sun Tour Power Ratchet bar end shifter, tubular tyres, Ariake saddle, etc.
Needs new brake levers, cross pedals, new tubulars, smaller chain ring, proper cassette and another saddle.

More pics click here.

I've collected some parts for this bike.

• Arius Special Gran Carrera saddle. Will get a make-over... (picture below)
  
• Mavic 500 (?) hubs 36H
  
• Wolber Super Champion Arc en Ciel tubular rims 36H
  
• Clincher wheels with Shimano 600 6-spd cassette hubs and Wolber Gentleman rims (for backup with clicher tyres)
  
  

Wolber Cross 28 Extra tubulars

Lyotard 460D pedals

Christophe double cross toe clips, size L

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Still need the following parts:

• Challenge Grifo 32 tyres & tubes
  
• Multiple freewheel 6 or 7 speed 13 - 25 or 26T
  
• Brake levers non-aero
  
• Small stuff like cables, chain, bar tape, straps, spokes for tub wheels, ...
  
  

Will give the rear mech a thought
Have to test in the seat post and stem are long enough. Otherwise I need to replace these as well.

Really loving the look of this, hope it evolves into something even more beautiful

Templates on saddle

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D@mn, failed!
You can't drill leather.
I guess it has to be punched.
Well, bad luck, but nothing serious. Enough saddles around.

you wanted to drill it for lightness?

No, not for lightness. If a full bike is approx 10 kg, it doesn't make any sense to start with drilling a saddle. Light wheels, fork, and some other stuff would make a much bigger contribution. Besides, that, taking my C64 saddle would be easier.
No, the reason was even more ridiculous. Some old CX bikes were pictured with drilled (punched?) saddles. I know the beautiful Assos and (cheaper) Arius saddles. What the idea was behind this? I guess this was a (silly) idea to shed mud and water from the rider's but/clothing/saddle.
I just like the idea and think it "belongs" a bit to this bike.
A year ago I had the chance to buy such an Assos saddle from a guy in Belgium. I let it go, because the saddle was looking bad and the seller wasn't willing to drop the price for another EUR 10 or so.
Yes, I know, I was stupid.

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Don't know what the original colour was, because some Arius saddles were brown, but the brown tan of this saddle was just caused by wear and UV radiation, I think.
Because a brown saddle doens't fit the bike (in my opinion), I've made it black (again). In real, the brown saddle didn't look as good as on this picture.
I understand that several people prefer brown, especially the worn version. I feel sorry for them. The good thing is that, after some years, it will become brown again...

I've measured the old FAG BB axle and the excess clearance at non-drive and drive side.
Current axle is 127.5 mm and is way too long.
Shortest axle possible will be around 115 mm, while Velobase says, that this Ofmega chain set requires a 123 mm axle.
I guess that I will settle for something between 115 mm and 122.5mm, whatever gives the best result and is available.

The crank arms were pretty tight and it was hard to turn in the crank extractor, but I disassembled the crank arms without ruining the threads. Pppffffff....

Now I have to build the wheels and source more parts.

Naked frame and fork
Disassembled everything except head set cup/cones.
Drilled drain hole in BB-shell, because there wasn't one.
Quite rusty inside, but it will hold.
May have to touch up 1 or 2 spots on the outside and the edges of the drilled hole.

It was a busy day. I could even finish the build of a new front wheel: Mavic 500 hub with a 36H Wolber Super Champion Arc en Ciel tubular rim. Now the rear wheel is on...

Nice.

I love old steel CX frames.

Finally I found some time to build the new rear wheel, too.
Now both tubular wheels are ready.
Pulled the tubulars on, but didn't glue them yet.

Also took all old parts apart and cleaned it with white spirit, an allround degreaser and washing-up liquid.
Now it's about time to put all the parts together again:
Sun Tour Vx rear mech, Dia Compe Cantis, Ofmega chain set, Tange head set, Sun Tour Power Ratchet barcon.
And make an extra set of clincher wheels, too.

Today I won a Christophe double toe clip (I had just one) for 99p.
Still looking for:

• non-aero brake levers
  
• longer seat post 26.6mm
  
• stem 135 or 140mm
  
• LH Lyotard 460d pedal
  
• screw-on freewheel
  
• finishing stuff like bar tape and chain
  
  

Puzzles...

Settled for a 119 mm BB axle, Ofmega Axec.
A bit shorter is also possible, but this is what I have and it will do.
Seems that original spec (according Velobase) is 122 or 123 mm, so 119 is good.

Getting closer.
Thanks to Giurgiu I could finish my LH pedal and complete the set.

Have to

• get a pair of brake levers,
  
• assemble the cables,
  
• toe straps
  
• cogs and a
  
• chain
  
• adjust the whole shit,
  
• put on bar tape
  
  

and then the Superia is ready to ride.
Deadline 3 weeks from now.

Good job on putting the puzzles back together DC. Bike is looking good

Shortened the toe straps a few inches and riveted them to the Lyoratd 460d pedals.
Old indians trick to avoid mud build-up in pedals and shoes.
I cannot confirm that it makes things better, but this is how I learned it some decades ago and for sure it's good for the "morale".
What certainly is good, is the double layer Christophe 'cross toe clips.
These are made like this by Christophe, but I've also made my own by drilling rivets from 2 pairs of single toe clips and putting them together with new rivets.

Finished the bike, more than we week before the deadline!
Will try to make some pictures today and post them here.
Still waiting for a pair of Challenge Ope Grifo clinchers to finish the clincher wheels. For touring that's much more practital than the tubular wheels that are in the bike now.

It was pretty tricky to drill the hole for the rear brake through the seat post.
I had to drill it because the frame was designed like that (no braze on at the back of the top tube).
First, I had to make the bike ridable, so I could test it and check with the correct shoes if the saddle hight was okay. Then I could mark where I wanted the cable to go through the seat post.
2 mm too low and the cable would touch the derailleur cable / braze on / seat lug.
2 mm too high and it would look terrible with a brake cable running that high.

I also had the intention to drill the handlebar stem for the front brake, but I'm not sure if I will keep this stem and bars on this bike forever.
The reason why I used these parts for this bike is, because they fit so well. But they're a bit too new to be "period correct". Stem and bars are from the 1990s, while the frame and the rest of the parts are from 1980 or so.
So, I'll wait with drilling the stem until I've found the perfect parts.

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