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• #2
No. You'll only save a couple of grams, any mistake would be costly or ,at worst, dangerous.
Just don't.
Yes to grease.
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• #3
Cut it
Wrap some tape around the region you cutting. Use a fine tooth hacksaw. Be gentle, dont force it. Use a mitre to get it straight. Simples, I've done it plenty times.
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• #4
It had its chance, just ask the unwanted post nicely to leave and try its luck somewhere else.
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• #5
I vote +1 to cut it, and don't use grease- it can get into the post and cause it to expand, jamming it in there (or so I have been told by a bike shop mechanic).
Use carbon assembly paste.
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• #6
Use Tynan's Security Pasteā¢
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• #7
Available in all good bike stores and some shit ones.
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• #8
Also you dont necessarily need paste. I ran a carbon post in a steel frame dry no probs. Never slipped
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• #9
Yep, probably fine- but the increased friction from the paste means that you can run even less tension on the seat-clamp bolt.
My post is a max of 5Nm, but I typically do it up to just under 4Nm in order to have some margin for error- and it's rock solid at that torque value.
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• #10
just to be clear, 5Nm is the force required to dig a teaspoon full of sugar out of a jar
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• #11
What type of sugar?
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• #12
Alan
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• #13
the thread has taken a good turn
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• #14
What type of sugar?
regular white granulated, stood next to the kettle, so assume 40% humidity
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• #15
Yes to grease.
You trollin?
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• #16
No. You'll only save a couple of grams, any mistake would be costly or ,at worst, dangerous.
you trollin?
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• #17
With this bit...
No. You'll only save a couple of grams,
...probably not.
With this bit...
any mistake would be costly or ,at worst, dangerous.
...probably so.
With this bit...
Yes to grease.
...definitely.
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• #18
From experience, don't cut (little to be gained?) and definitely carbon paste.
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• #19
Cut it
Wrap some tape around the region you cutting. Use a fine tooth hacksaw. Be gentle, dont force it. Use a mitre to get it straight. Simples, I've done it plenty times.
This.
But also use a new blade.
And measure several times before cutting.
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• #20
So it's, yes, no, maybe.
You guys are so helpful
But thanks for the advice on how to go about it.
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• #21
Lfgss has ranked me as "Elite", so you should listen to me ;)
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• #22
I use a tungsten carbide blade on carbon. And I always use carbon assembly stuff. Cut it if you are feeling lucky. Don't if you're not.
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• #23
just to be clear, 5Nm is the force required to dig a teaspoon full of sugar out of a jar
Even if it was true.... just for some sense of perspective LOOK for their classic Ergopost recommend 2Nm tightening force...
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• #24
Just bought a Planet X carbon seat post for my steel frame road bike. Trouble is, it's far too long for my needs. Is it a good idea to cut it, or should I just live with it?
If to cut, what's the best way to do this?
**Also, should I use carbon assembly paste **(Fiber Grip or similar), regular grease or nothing?
Thanks
The way I've done it: wrapped adhesive tape to the desired length to achieve clean even cut; used dremel micro motor and a thin cutting disc at low speed (higher speed will raise the temp, and eventually burn the composite filler); moved in circular way gently applying pressure and deepening the cut uniformly on all sides; finally smoothed the cut with a hard rubber wheel at low speed. You can get the separating disc and the rubber wheel in tool shops; or if you know a dental technician s/he may give you some).
I always use carbon paste for better friction (some manufacturers advise against using regular grease); and think torque wrench is a must.
Hope this helps.
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• #25
^ just get a Ritchey torque key... cheap and lets you safely crank @5Nm all the live long day...
Just bought a Planet X carbon seat post for my steel frame road bike. Trouble is, it's far too long for my needs. Is it a good idea to cut it, or should I just live with it?
If to cut, what's the best way to do this?
Also, should I use carbon assembly paste (Fiber Grip or similar), regular grease or nothing?
Thanks