Powercordz

Just in the middle of recabling my bike, has anyone got any hints and tips regarding tying these off that they'd like to share?

This time round I'm setting everything up (housing length, routing, brake position) using cheap steel cables first, then I'm going to thread in the cordz.

I've got the little blue grommet clasps, which I used last time, but to be honest they were fairly useless- however I am totally open to being told that I was/am doing it wrong.

You mean these...?

I screwed the caliper barrrel adjusters all the way in, and clamped my pads to the rim. Basically mean I could tie a nice knot without simuteneously trying to pull the cable tight.

Grommet clasps:

Allegedly you are meant to be able to tie off around these, then gently clamp and test- in reality, I found they just disintegrated.

My biggest challenge is probably peculiar to EE brakes- try getting your fingers in the cutaway on the arm to tie the knot:

Last time I ended up marking the cord with a pen, then taking it out of the clamp, tying it off, then feeding it back in again- which is a bit hit and miss in terms of getting it in the correct place.

My biggest challenge is probably peculiar to EE brakes- try getting your fingers in the cutaway on the arm to tie the knot:

Last time I ended up marking the cord with a pen, then taking it out of the clamp, tying it off, then feeding it back in again- which is a bit hit and miss in terms of getting it in the correct place.

Pretty much what I did with one of mine. Kept messing it up. So I simply tied a knot a touch furtherup the cord. Then using the clamp above to hold the caliper in a 'braked' position. I thread the knot onto the bolt, tightened the knot, and clamped the bolt. Releasing the caliper left the pads a touch too far out. But then I had my barrel adusters all the way in so I could adjust for this. Not ideal admittedly.

That's what I was afraid of- looks like that is the best way of doing it.

Which is annoying, as they are so good otherwise, but the whole tying them off part is a massive pain in the arse.

Have you considered just leaving the steel cables in place? You'll be upgrading either your brakes or your frame before they wear out bed in.

I will for now- just noticed that I've got the old cable adjusters on these brakes which were subject to a recall.

I'll get those swapped and then get knotting.

And sticking with this frame now- I just ordered an SRM for the CX bike, so that's the bike account emptied.

Just install as you will install a steel cable. Only trick there is to make sure there is not sharp edges that could fray the cord, use the nosed ferrules or some liner for protection. Your barrel adjuster should be all the way in and then turn it back a turn or two. As you feed the cord along, pull on it regularly so the ferrules and everything sits in properly. Use C clamp to hold the pads to the rims (as if you were braking).
At the tie off, remove the bolt, keep the clamp in the bolt, insert the grommet in the threads all the way in, reinstall the bolt without clamping down. Thread the cord around the grommet (at least a 360 for the brakes, if you can make a knot, it is better, a 180 for the derailleur is enough usually), and clamp down hard. The grommet is a non-reusable item, it will protect the cord to some extent as you clamp down. If you need to readjust, just use another grommet.
Why do you need to clamp down hard? You have to grab on 10,000 fibers.
Remove your C clamp. Chances are your brakes are a bit tight, adjust with your barrel adjuster. Tada!! You got a problem at install and mess up a cable? Let Powercordz guys know about it, they will send you a replacement cord.

Or just use steel cables.

If the manufacturer needs to monitor teh internetz so that they can step in any time somebody mentions their product, maybe the material which has served us well these 110 years, with continual improvement in material and manufacturing reflective of its use in every kind of transport vehicle and many other areas of industry, is still the best choice.

Meanwhile, since you're here, perhaps you can answer a question which isn't covered by your FAQ:
What are PowerCordz made from?

I think the '10 000' fibres that do the actual work are polyphenylene bensobisoxazole fiber strands the same as Sinergy use for PBO spokes. The casing is only there to provide chemical resistant and UV protection.

I stand to be corrected though ..

Oh .. and I find it kind of nice customer service that PowerCordz pop up, as long as they keep monitoring for any future questions user have, although I don't believe there is many users on this forum .. so welcome from me .. any chance of some as samples ;) lol

In other words, this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zylon

albeit not under that name as it's a Toyobo trademark, and PowerCordz are by DuPont

Thread the cord around the grommet (at least a 360 for the brakes, if you can make a knot, it is better, a 180 for the derailleur is enough usually), and clamp down hard. The grommet is a non-reusable item, it will protect the cord to some extent as you clamp down. If you need to readjust, just use another grommet.
Why do you need to clamp down hard? You have to grab on 10,000 fibers.

This would be much easier- just wrapping the cord around the bolt in a complete circle, rather than having to knot it.

Is this really acceptable?

Thinking about it, once clamped firmly I cannot see the cord moving.

With my brakes (as mentioned up thread) it's quite tough making the knot in a way that is not very fiddly.

If it is actually as simple as wrap it round completely and then clamp then that'd make my life much easier.

Just install as you will install a steel cable. Only trick there is to make sure there is not sharp edges that could fray the cord, use the nosed ferrules or some liner for protection. Your barrel adjuster should be all the way in and then turn it back a turn or two. As you feed the cord along, pull on it regularly so the ferrules and everything sits in properly. Use C clamp to hold the pads to the rims (as if you were braking).
At the tie off, remove the bolt, keep the clamp in the bolt, insert the grommet in the threads all the way in, reinstall the bolt without clamping down. Thread the cord around the grommet (at least a 360 for the brakes, if you can make a knot, it is better, a 180 for the derailleur is enough usually), and clamp down hard. The grommet is a non-reusable item, it will protect the cord to some extent as you clamp down. If you need to readjust, just use another grommet.
Why do you need to clamp down hard? You have to grab on 10,000 fibers.
Remove your C clamp. Chances are your brakes are a bit tight, adjust with your barrel adjuster. Tada!! You got a problem at install and mess up a cable? Let Powercordz guys know about it, they will send you a replacement cord.

Ok, no room to use the grommets with EE Brakes, but this time round I wrapped the cord entirely around the retaining bolt rather than tying it, then clamped down:

Worked fine at the front, but the covering split at the rear:

Is this going to be ok?

The "wrapping-round" technique rather than "tying-off" was so much easier, it made a job I'd been dreading quite easy.

Powerdeathcordz

You got a problem at install and mess up a cable? Let Powercordz guys know about it, they will send you a replacement cord.
time for a free cable

Sorry to hi-jack but has anyone used Powercordz in conjunction with Alligator i-link/i-link mini sleeves and outers?

Me, before when I ran Force- worked very well.

The only thing I had to do was to turn down one of the ferrules so that it went in the cable mount on the frame.

They won't fit in the iLink mini I don't think.

Okay, thank you!

The chap from PowerCordz got back to me- he says the rear brake is fine:

"It will be fine, the pic shows that you have a good grab on the fibers. The jacket is not important for strength. Enjoy riding!"

So it's a cosmetic issue, nothing more.

No problem with the cord fraying after the knot. It looks like you grabbed on the cord nicely so it wont slip.

Now that's customer service!

It is nice when the manufacturor chimes in.