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• #2
measure the assembled bottom part and add it to the assembled top half, neglecting the bit which will be inside the steerer.
Is that correct?
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• #3
Yep - that sounds right.
I guess it depends what your budget is? I've used Tange Levin headsets a few times on cheaper builds and have had no problems at all. On the other end of the scale is Chris King I reckon.
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• #5
Is the bike already fitted with a particular brand of parts? Age/value of bike?
I bought a Campagnolo Record from Parker recently for £43 which is a great buy. It was recommended that this headset should always have the headtube faced first FWIW. I'd avoid Shiny Bikes who have similar prices.
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• #6
i think they bike is from the 90s, its nothing special, a 531 touring frame
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• #7
Can I ask why you've decided to go for theaded, I'm trying to make the decision of threaded or threadless and I could do with a bit more info?
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• #8
because my fork is threaded, i didnt know that was an option
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• #9
It's not - the steerer would need to clear the headtube by way more than 38mm as it would need to go through the headset AND the stem clamp area and then probably a little more for spacers etc.
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• #11
Do you mean the old one with the needle rollers is good or the new version with cartridge bearings is good?
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• #12
both / either
Could someone please explain how i would go about selecting a threaded headset for a frame and fork I have? Any good recommendations on where to get a new one.
I have measured the stack height of the old one to be 38mm (i think)