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I didnt even need to respace my track wheels for mine it fit on just fine and i ended up with my cranks about 4mm further out than the rear sprocket
The Chainline should run straight from the chainring to the sprocket. A couple millimeters either way will make a difference. Please read Sheldon's article on Chainline.
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Track wheel will be the standard 120mm spacing so I figure to make up the 6mm.I add 2mm spacer at each side then screw tighten the rest.
Hubjub sell 3mm spacers for this exact purpose - probably worth paying the money to do it right.
I'm unsure how to tackle the chainline as the rear hub is old 105 7speed so assume the spacing 126mm.
Read this http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
You'll learn how to work out which BB to buy to get a perfect chainline.If I get a new BB can I just use my current cups with the new spindle and shell to get the desired chainline? Is there anything I need to do with the rear?
AFAIK you should be able to use the same cups but I'd wait for someone who actually knows for sure.
rogan
rocker9455-
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Conversion chainline issues
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Hello folks,
Decided having two geared bike may as well convert the old steel roadie since it has the drop out for it.
I'm unsure how to tackle the chainline as the rear hub is old 105 7speed so assume the spacing 126mm.
Track wheel will be the standard 120mm spacing so I figure to make up the 6mm.I add 2mm spacer at each side then screw tighten the rest.
Current BB is italian thread square taper. For the conversion I am gonna pick up a shorter set of cranks, 160mm messengers likely.
Given the new cranks and new wheel going to change my chainline at both ends how do ensure I keep it straight?
If I get a new BB can I just use my current cups with the new spindle and shell to get the desired chainline? Is there anything I need to do with the rear?