Cheap singlespeed cyclocross conversion

I was looking for a cheap cyclocross bike when I found this project;
The man converted a Trek 700 hybrid bike to a cyclocrosser;

It looked like a pretty fun build and I wanted to do it myself. This is how far I'm now;
From;

To;

Yesterday I rode it offroad and it's very much fun.
What would be a good ratio to ride with? I'm thinking 34-16??
I bought some second hand 32mm Maxxis cx tires and I'm weating for a wheelset I lent to a friend of mine.

I have this type of Shimano STX cranks;

http://bernd.sluka.de/Fahrrad/Shimano/TM/FC-MC33_1995.gif

Does anyone know were I can get a (singlespeed) chainring for it? The size is 58mm...
Thanks!

Does anyone give a shit about my bike? Otherwise I will stop this thread.


I still need a new stem and crankset.

This is really cool, inspiring me a lot. Def keep this going! Are you thinking of painting the frame or keeping it fairly "beater" esc?

It needs gears man, with the same gear setup as that trek, this would be cool.

It needs gears man, with the same gear setup as that trek, this would be cool.

You're gonna log off, log back in, and write the exact opposite of everything you just posted. * snaps fingers *

Ace thread and bike kjlem.

It doesn't need gears man, with the same gear setup as that trek, this wouldn't be cool.

:d

Not too dissimilar for what I was going for before with my Dawes. I like it. Not sure if it's worth the cost but you could switch out the fork to a 1" surly cross check.

I'd go for some 4 bolt second hand shimano cranks.

If you want I have a brand new set of decore's including the external bottom bracket - they just. Red chainrings.

Thanks for the replies! Tomorrow I'm going to get a second hand FSA energy crankset with bb and chainrings for 20 euro.

Does anyone have experience with dual gear? I'm thinking about putting a 16t and a 17t cog next to each other. I have horizontal dropouts so it should be possible to ride 34-16 onroad and 34-17 on mtbtracks.
I'm thinking about using a 5/8 speed sram chain.

Not sure if it's worth the cost but you could switch out the fork to a 1" surly cross check.

I'm flogging some 1" Threadless steel CX forks here. You also get a free (slightly damaged) frame!

What do you guys think I need a new fork? Because of the rake or because it's threaded?

Does anyone have experience with dual gear? I'm thinking about putting a 16t and a 17t cog next to each other. I have horizontal dropouts so it should be possible to ride 34-16 onroad and 34-17 on mtbtracks.
I'm thinking about using a 5/8 speed sram chain.

Just a thought... I've not done it but if you run double rings up front (with no front mech) you don't need to unbolt the rear wheel to change gear, you have a straight chain a all times and bigger difference in ratios.

You could run a 34+36 up front and 18+16 at the back. This would give you;

34x18 = 51 gear inches
36x16 = 61 gear inches

All without moving the wheel or a chain tensioner.

What do you guys think I need a new fork? Because of the rake or because it's threaded?

Because I want someone to bid on my eBay auction!

:]

edit Your current fork seems fine to me edit

I'm sorry but I'm from the Netherlands and the frame is to small for me. Good luck with the auction anyway.

Just a thought... I've not done it but if you run double rings up front (with no front mech) you don't need to unbolt the rear wheel to change gear, you have a straight chain a all times and bigger difference in ratios.

You could run a 34+36 up front and 18+16 at the back. This would give you;

34x18 = 51 gear inches
36x16 = 61 gear inches

All without moving the wheel or a chain tensioner.

I dont think a double up front and a double at the back would be not sensible, why not have gears? Chainline would be a bit messy and I think chain length changes like that I think it would be hard to get the same chain in those dropouts.
But I do think two cogs at the back is a practical idea with 1 or 2 tooth differances

I dont think a double up front and a double at the back would be not sensible, why not have gears?

You do have gears. Two.

Chainline would be a bit messy

The chainline would be perfect, better than with a derailleur.

...and I think chain length changes like that I think it would be hard to get the same chain in those dropouts.

The axle doesn't move because you've carefully chosen 2 gears with the same chain length.

The Double/Double is a unique drive train system the we offer. The system is comprised of a double chainring machined from one piece of aluminum, mated with an ENO crank and a DOS ENO freewheel. The configuration for a 26" wheel bike is offered with a 38/35 big ring mated with a 16/19 freewheel. The 29er configuration mates a 31/34 ring with a 16/19 freewheel. The system works by either running the chain in the outer tooth positions or, alternatively, in the inner tooth positions front to back. The gear ratios are significantly changed when switching from one combination to another, however, the chain length does not need to be altered to accommodate the two differing ratios. Running the ring in the outer position tends to be more suitable for on-road style riding, whereas, riding in the inner ring position lends itself more to off-road riding.
From here.

^ that's awsome.

I've always wanted to do something like that... albeit more of a bodge with a spacer/road double combo (I guess the issue normally is the inside chainring hitting the stays).

Just thinking the 26" ratio's might be ok for more normal riding on 700s:

29er (using 700c 32mm tyre)
31:16 = 52.3
34:19 = 48.3

26" (using 700c 32mm tyre)
38:16 = 64.1
35:19 = 49.7

Sorry Micro, I get it now, excuse my ignorance =P

It's tricky to get your head around because we are so used to rear cogs being ordered the opposite way (getting larger towards the hub).

^^ Yes 50" is pretty good off road, and sixty-something on the road to and from the trials.

I think you'd have to run the chain fairly slack to easily pop it between cogs, but that is fine. You'll still get greasy fingers though.

With the gear changing it is literally a case of shunting it across until it bites using your hand like a fleshy dérailleur?

...fleshy dérailleur?

blush

Or a stick? My dad has a hook thing lying around for changing the front chain rings before and after a race back when nobody had front dérailleurs. But it should be fairly easy to "shift" with your hands, but I think even with a stick it would be hard whilst moving.

Really like the look of this, guess it'd be a good cheap way to get a cx bike, they seem quite expensive :/

One question, is the frame strong enough?