Old Bottom Bracket & Cranks Removal

Hey guys,

I have a bottom bracket and crankset that looks like this, and I need to get them both removed by Monday afternoon at the latest. Firstly, which tools do I need - one like this I assume but what else?

Does anyone know a bike shop in or near Southwark that can do this without having to book in advance? Or even better, if anyone has the required tools that I could borrow, rent or buy then that would be excellent.

Thanks very much!

yeah you'll need that tool for the bottom bracket and the crankset will just need a normal crankpuller which you can get from halfords. Where abouts in southwark are you? I might be able to lend you mine if you wanted.

You'll need a crank arm puller and (probably) a 14mm socket wrench first. Once the cranks are off, maybe you can loosen the lock ring by hand? You could probably loosen it with a screwdriver (Be gentle!) as for the other side (can't really see it under the grime!). It might be possible to unscrew with a wrench, though it's very hard to get enough grip on such a narrow surface. Why not get the cranks off, then take it down to a halfords and use their tools?

Actually, gonna hijack the thread a bit, I'm just replacing the same kind of old bottom bracket with a shimano cartridge BB (UN-55). I assumed the square tapers would be the same thickness on both kinds, so just ordered the same width BB, though now I've got the cartridge in, the cranks sit too close to the frame and the inner chainring rubs against the chain stay. So I guess the Shimano tapers are narrower? PAIN IN THE ARSE.
Any idea how much wider BB I should order? The old one was 118mm, I'm thinking 127mm as it's making contact with the chains stays before I've even tightened it fully. Anyone else had this problem? advice?

You'll need a crank arm puller and (probably) a 14mm socket wrench first. Once the cranks are off, maybe you can loosen the lock ring by hand? You could probably loosen it with a screwdriver (Be gentle!) as for the other side (can't really see it under the grime!). It might be possible to unscrew with a wrench, though it's very hard to get enough grip on such a narrow surface. Why not get the cranks off, then take it down to a halfords and use their tools?

yeah you'll need that tool for the bottom bracket and the crankset will just need a normal crankpuller which you can get from halfords. Where abouts in southwark are you? I might be able to lend you mine if you wanted.

Thanks for the replies. I have a crankpuller, but I don't have either the 14mm socket wrench (I have a 13mm but it's too small) or the lockring tool. YellowJxC, do you have those? I'm near Canada Water

Actually, gonna hijack the thread a bit, I'm just replacing the same kind of old bottom bracket with a shimano cartridge BB (UN-55). I assumed the square tapers would be the same thickness on both kinds, so just ordered the same width BB, though now I've got the cartridge in, the cranks sit too close to the frame and the inner chainring rubs against the chain stay. So I guess the Shimano tapers are narrower? PAIN IN THE ARSE.
Any idea how much wider BB I should order? The old one was 118mm, I'm thinking 127mm as it's making contact with the chains stays before I've even tightened it fully. Anyone else had this problem? advice?

Yeah you'll probably need a bigger bottom bracket (though 9mm bigger seems a lot) and also some of these: http://www.velosolo.co.uk/bbspacers.html
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=36416&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom

Thanks for the replies. I have a crankpuller, but I don't have either the 14mm socket wrench (I have a 13mm but it's too small) or the lockring tool. YellowJxC, do you have those? I'm near Canada Water

I have a 14mm socket wrench but no lockring tool. My lockring tool got rounded off and hid under my funiture don't know where it is anymore lol.

I have a 14mm socket wrench but no lockring tool. My lockring tool got rounded off and hid under my funiture don't know where it is anymore lol.

Heh okay, thanks anyway though. :)

Actually, gonna hijack the thread a bit, I'm just replacing the same kind of old bottom bracket with a shimano cartridge BB (UN-55). I assumed the square tapers would be the same thickness on both kinds, so just ordered the same width BB, though now I've got the cartridge in, the cranks sit too close to the frame and the inner chainring rubs against the chain stay. So I guess the Shimano tapers are narrower? PAIN IN THE ARSE.
Any idea how much wider BB I should order? The old one was 118mm, I'm thinking 127mm as it's making contact with the chains stays before I've even tightened it fully. Anyone else had this problem? advice?

that's because that original BB is an ISO taper one, and the shimano one is JIS. You need the right one or you will fuck your cranks.

Buy a crank puller, they're cheap and useful.
If you're at a loss what to do I have quite a few tools except I live in N1.

that's because that original BB is an ISO taper one, and the shimano one is JIS. You need the right one or you will fuck your cranks.

Bugger.
According to Mr. Brown, It should be okay with a longer spindle? Most of the online stores I'm looking at don't mention which their bottom brackets are, do I just have to go off the brand?
Thanks for the help.

basically yeah. Pretty much all of them are ISO unless they're campagnolo of Gippieme or Sugino 75.

Bugger.
According to Mr. Brown, It should be okay with a longer spindle? Most of the online stores I'm looking at don't mention which their bottom brackets are, do I just have to go off the brand?
Thanks for the help.

I have one of these "Tange" ones, and they also do an even cheaper Stronglight one for about £20 shipped http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopchain.html.

basically yeah. Pretty much all of them are ISO unless they're campagnolo of Gippieme or Sugino 75.

no, campag and other euro manufacturers are iso taper, shimano are all jis with a few exceptions i think.

aw bollocks I said it the wrong way round.

Stronglight, Sugino, Tange, Shimano, Token, the vast majority are JIS.
Campag, Gipiemme, Miche, Token as well are ISO.

Shimano UN54 is the go-to cheap but good bottom bracket.

Always remember to remove any washers underneath the crank bolts before using a crank extractor, and make sure the extractor is seated well before forcing the cranks off.

C-spanner takes off the non-drive side lockring, but you can smash it with a large blade screwdriver if necessary.

There should be two flats on the drive side cup to remove it. I use a bloody large adjustable spanner for this.

Check Sheldon Brown's website to see which direction the threads loosen.

I have one of these "Tange" ones, and they also do an even cheaper Stronglight one for about £20 shipped http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopchain.html.

Cheers, though sadly they don't come long enough for my (possibly ancient) cranks.

I'm a bit confused by "If you install an ISO crank on a J.I.S. spindle, it will sit about 4.5 mm farther out than it would on an ISO spindle of the same length." -Sheldon

Surely the problem I'm having is the cranks are sitting too far IN?

Really need my bike back on the road, so just going to order a JIS BB with a longer spindle tonight (finding it impossible to find a ISO one of the right length). This is all getting a little esoteric for me so considering the original is 118, should I go for 122 or even 127? Some pictures below of the crank on the new BB (and the contact between the ring and the chainstay).

Cheers, everyone.

which crank?

^
THUN CORONADO
Like the ones on the left

Though looking to replace as some knobber in a souped up 3 door crashed into the side of me and bent the left one.

^^^ don't raleigh have their own taper too?

I've got two sets of cheap raleigh cranks for beater (like the above) and they both sit really funny on ISO BB's, they only really sit up neatly on the crappy toffee like BB they came with.

Just thought I'd post the "mission accomplished" pic, and my worst bike experience to date.

Removed the non-drive side lockring very easily, and the cup with my bare hands. The other side was much more tricky. Eventually I ended up with this massive adjustable wrench and this really, really awesome clamp device with rubber feet. It was very, very tightly in place, but the clamp device came through and allowed me to put in the force required to get it moving.

That was the easy part.

Next, I found out that one of the bearings for the main bolt inside the rear derailleur was broken. With all my effort, and a couple of very damaged allen keys, I could not unscrew it. I noticed that I could turn the whole thing, and that also unscrews it, but of course when you do that it hits the chainstays. An hour and many hacksaw blades later, I cut off the derailleur hangar and I was able to rotate the entire thing.

Just to rub a bit of salt into the wound, the bottom bracket cable guide was also some kind of extremely shit design. It was built using a sort of fixed pin into a circular metal socket which had no thread could not be undone. I hacksawed the guide off, and then hammered the pin back down inside and finally managed to get it out. Terrible, terrible design - never seen anything like it.

Anyway, here she is:

After:

Before:

Nice one.
That clamp looks pretty handy, how solid/strong is it? I've got a habit of going OTT and breaking my tools.

As for my BB, decided just to go back to the old cup & cone until I get a new crankset.

It's surprisingly strong actually. I actually tested it on a tin can for fun, and it crushed it far more than I could with my bare hands.

Woah, Hold on, I like the sound of that.
brb - B&Q

It was built using a sort of fixed pin into a circular metal socket which had no thread could not be undone

also known as a rivet..