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• #2
When it's at the slack point can you lift the chain over the side of the chainring?
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• #3
i haven't tried, i'm pretty sure that'll be a no but i'll check in the morning....thanks.
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• #4
Try rotating the chainring to another position on the crank. Often they are both slightly out of round, but with a bit of trial and error you can find a position that minimises the tight spots.
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• #5
thanks, i've just read that and plan to try it. i'm going to file some off the rings 'legs' so i can get some movement as per sheldon's method. i'm pretty sure it's ok as it is, i just need to make it better and feel safer psychologically whazzing down the bloody big hills.
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• #6
sorted it, i think, i turned the wheel thru a few degrees at at time and found a compromise. it's the new stainless sprocket that's a bit out of perfection round.
i've got a newish 1/8th (<500 miles); stronglight track chainset, ring, bottom bracket, 18t sprocket, wheels.
the difference in tightness is about 1 inch of slack (pull up then pushed down) to being tight on different parts of the ring.
is this ok or too much? i'm worried about the chain coming off at 150 rpm and getting hurt / killed.
i've tried the sheldon thing and it made no difference as the ring is a tight fit on the spider.