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• #2
I would leave it as it is, personally. New wheels with hub brakes, cream tyres and leather saddle/bar tape and it'd look great. To protect what's left of the paintwork you could use a couple of thin layers of linseed oil - the thin pale straw-coloured stuff that you get from artists' suppliers, rather than the thick orange stuff you get to protect wood - as it dries to a hard gummy satin finish and gives great protection against rust, and it won't damage the decals, either.
I love the Rudge symbol.
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• #3
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• #4
Cranks are awesome. Where did you find them? You have to leave the original paintwork, it makes the bike.
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• #5
I had bought this chainring to replace my 1935 Rudge restoration as it was a bit loose, but decided to use it for the next project instead. Saw one on US ebay, but he wanted $100 plus postage and customs charges. One popped up on eBay UK and there's another one on at present, but I'll let someone else win that one! The mad thing is that most of these chainrings are hidden behind rusty chainguards!
The frame has been robbed of its bottom bracket and cup, so I'm trying to figure that one out. Might go with a velo orange threadless BB. Just need to measure up for the spindle. Anyone done this for their Raleigh restorations?
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• #6
I had bought this chainring to replace my 1935 Rudge restoration as it was a bit loose, but decided to use it for the next project instead. Saw one on US ebay, but he wanted $100 plus postage and customs charges. One popped up on eBay UK and there's another one on at present, but I'll let someone else win that one! The mad thing is that most of these chainrings are hidden behind rusty chainguards!
The frame has been robbed of its bottom bracket and cup, so I'm trying to figure that one out. Might go with a velo orange threadless BB. Just need to measure up for the spindle. Anyone done this for their Raleigh restorations?
Won't you need a cottered BB for that crankset? I've seen them up on ebay reasonably often.
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• #7
VO threadless won't work - you need a cottered axle in loose-ball cups. I have a spare cottered axle if you want it - just postage cost. PM me.
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• #8
This is the axle I'm looking for lae:
A16 NGC (no gearcase clearance) size 4 7/8" Raleigh part number RBA104
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• #9
Hmm, 4 7/8" is about 124mm or so... I'll measure up the axle I've got tonight.
Could you measure the width of the BB shell? If it's 68mm then it should fit - but some older Raleighs (and I can't remember which, or when) used wider BB shells and had the bearings spaced further apart. Are both cups missing or just the left-hand one?
I also found a pair of cotter pins last night - I'll throw them in, but I don't know if they're Imperial (9.5mm diameter) or continental (9mm).
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• #10
Vintage Rudge single speed....
The build is 95% complete, just a few finishing touches to do when I've spare time at the weekend.
Wheel build courtesy of http://macvillain.com/ on H Plus Son rims.
And a big thanks to Rick and Tom for their help with my bicycle problems and for bullying me into the colour scheme..nice work guys :)
Unfortunately I couldn't use the Rudge chainwheel as the bottom bracket shell was wrecked and had a damaged cup jammed inside. So a Shimano UN55 (I think) was popped in and seems to be holding up. A BLB Pista Vera crankset was a nice traditional alternative.
A few bars were tried out in the shop and, but it wasn't until these nitto bars went on that it all came together.
Bar tape etc...still undecided. You would think that Brooks would match up their olive greens, but their bar tape isn't even close to the saddle, so will maybe add some dark brown grips later on.
This bike is fast and very smooth! I love it. Just a few things to sort like transfers on the new parts and NOS 1940s Miller lamp will be added shortly as a finishing touch.
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• #11
Looks great! Did you end up using anything to protect the original paint? Or just left as is?
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• #12
Badly needs mudguards.
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• #13
^ agreed. I like what I see so far though. Patina is perfect.. and that fork. So good.
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• #14
Unfortunately I couldn't use the Rudge chainwheel as the bottom bracket shell was wrecked and had a damaged cup jammed inside. So a Shimano UN55 (I think) was popped in and seems to be holding up. A BLB Pista Vera crankset was a nice traditional alternative.
lovely build! i've nearly finished rebuilding a 50's rudge but am having trouble with the BB - it's the original cottered bb and I've replaced all the bearings, greased it etc but it still doesn't feel completely right unless I leave the axle with a bit of play. have looked into replacing the BB but the shell is 71mm so I understood that normal (68mm) bbs won't work. judging from your post this may not be correct... did you go with a 68mm or 73mm bb?
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• #15
Love it. Glad you kept the original paint job. Shame about the chainring. It would make a nice wall hanger:-).
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• #16
What kind of tyres are those?
I love the patina!
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• #17
3rd picture, spot the :0
Where do I go with this?
Original plan was to build a pathracer themed single speed, hub brakes, drop north roads, cream tyres and a new Rudge maroon paint job.
But I'm liking this frame in it's original (very faded) lustre orange. Love the decals which cannot be replaced at present.
I've got a nice chainring with the "Red Hand of Ulster" symbol and even a first class condition headstock badge ready for the respray.
Rat look with brand new everything else or respray pashley guvnor ripoff?
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rudge aero decal down tube
rudge aero decals