• Hey guise.

    So I did do a bit of searching and googling but I can't find a definitive answer to this.

    I'm replacing my GXP bottom bracket with a GXP team due to horrendous creaking coming from the non-driveside (bust bearings).

    The GXP team comes with two small spacers, which the manual tells you to use if you have a 68mm bb shell. The cups are definitely narrower than the old bb and adding the spacers seems to account for that.

    When I fit the cranks and begin to torque the bolt, it doesn't seem to need as much as I thought before the cranks are tight.

    I'm worried about overtightening and compressing the bearings, but I know that these things do have a degree of settling in to do thanks to the ultra thick grease they seemed to be packed with.

    Once fitted and tightened to my approximation of the necessary torque (judged by watching a SRAM youtube video and seeing how much force he applied), should the cranks be able to complete a full revolution when you push them?

    With the old BB, the bolt could be tightened pretty much as much as you want without changing how easy it was to spin the cranks.

    Edit:

    I just tried removing one of the spacers, and funnily enough, doing that meant that the cranks had play no matter how much I dared to tighten them. I'm beginning to think that the old BB was actually a little bit too narrow, hence inviting a tiny bit of play which then fucked the bearings as soon as it got wet.

    Mainly out of getting bored of fiddling, I've decided to trust SRAM and the tightness of my newly installed bb. It does feel similar to what I remember from fitting my ultegra cranks.

    Please don't prove me wrong! I'll be scared to look at this thread tomorrow, ha.

  • I imagine you're good. You should be able to find the tightening torques online if paranoid. Also you should be able to measure the BB and cups according to your frame. All should be 68mm as expected.

  • I just HTFU'd and built it. Chainline is indeed actually better than previous BB. Also I can't make it click, no matter what i do. This makes me happy.

    Oh I know the Torque I need. I could tell you it in NM, pound feet or pound inches. I just have no way of measuring what it actually is on the bike!

    I have a feeling like it's not enough, but it feels better to feel evidence that the cranks are actually getting pulled together rather than tightening with nowt happening.

  • cranks should turn maybe 1-2 rev max really on fresh external BB bearings. they take a while to move the grease about until they spin really free. But under load doesn't make much difference really.
    Theres almost always a lot of faff when changing between different ext BB systems, guess you have already fiddled until it worked ;)

  • Update:

    I wasn't happy with the way it felt to ride so I stopped in to Tokyofixed after work. They had a look and noticed that the axle wasn't coming through the cups far enough, so the cranks were pressing against the bearings before moving far enough up the spindle.

    They took it in for the night and somehow managed to get them tight enough to remove play without any spacers, which is nice!

    Drivetrain is still clicking like a bitch though, which means after all this it's probably the chainring bolts.

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How easily should my SRAM cranks turn after fitting?

Posted by Avatar for qckpckt @qckpckt

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