Replacing chain ring

I bought a bike with a Miche advanced cranks with 52t. I was thinking of changing the chain ring only to a 48t, must I only buy a miche chain ring or can I buy other brands? Also, does it really matter if it's just a normal steel chain ring? Note: It's a track bike

Thanks

Here is you Saturday evening read where you will find the answer (get also a cup of tea) http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd
:)

Miche Advanced cranks have a BCD of 144, so you can fit any chainring, regardless of brand, that also has a BCD of 144.

Here is you Saturday evening read where you will find the answer (get also a cup of tea) http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd
:)

haha thanks, I've checked this site and I understand a few things. I found this http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bcd.html from the link you sent me. Since it's 5 bolt and it' BCD is 165mm, the lowest ring it can take its a 44t? Correct me if i'm wrong please.

Miche Advanced cranks have a BCD of 144, so you can fit any chainring, regardless of brand, that also has a BCD of 144.

You've correct me :P Is the 165mm the diametre?

When I'm looking at chain rings, sometimes they don't give the BCD, is there another way of writing the BCD?

165 is probably the crank length, no?

165mm is for sure the crank length. 144 bolt circle diameter is the old Campag road standard and I believe is current on their and many other track chainsets. It will take a ring down to 42t although 48x18 is the perfect riding around fixed gear.
Track bikes often have a 1/8th inch chain and ring/sprocket (slightly wider) but a "road" 3/32" chainring will work OK. TA make good rings in quality alloy.
If you go from 52t to 48t you may well have to take a couple of links out of your chain.

165mm is for sure the crank length. 144 bolt circle diameter is the old Campag road standard and I believe is current on their and many other track chainsets. It will take a ring down to 42t although 48x18 is the perfect riding around fixed gear.
Track bikes often have a 1/8th inch chain and ring/sprocket (slightly wider) but a "road" 3/32" chainring will work OK. TA make good rings in quality alloy.
If you go from 52t to 48t you may well have to take a couple of links out of your chain.

Thanks, will a 48x18 be able to tackle hills? I know it mostly leg muscle/power but will that ratio be enough?

Also, I was looking at this vhttp://www.evanscycles.com/products/token/track-chainring-1-1-8-ec020838?query=Chain%20ring but it doesn't say the BCD... It does however, as you mention, have 1/8'' but thats nothing to do with BCD right?

Back in the day when derailleurs were crap and nobody had any money anyhow guys would tour the Yorkshire Dales on 48x18. I used 50x20 which is a little lower because I was a useless climber. With your 52 ring a 20t sprocket would give you a similar gear to 48x18. Might be worth considering if you are on fixed and can get a cheap sprocket
Single speed is always a compromise but unless you have a stiff climb every day 48x18 will be OK.
3/32" and 1/8th" are the nominal widths of chains. I couldn't get your link to work.
What is your back cog at present?

Back in the day when derailleurs were crap and nobody had any money anyhow guys would tour the Yorkshire Dales on 48x18. I used 50x20 which is a little lower because I was a useless climber. With your 52 ring a 20t sprocket would give you a similar gear to 48x18. Might be worth considering if you are on fixed and can get a cheap sprocket
Single speed is always a compromise but unless you have a stiff climb every day 48x18 will be OK.
3/32" and 1/8th" are the nominal widths of chains. I couldn't get your link to work.
What is your back cog at present?

Oh sorry here it is again Evans Cycles | Token Track Chainring 1 1/8" | Online Bike Shop

My back cog is 16t, I was thinking of temporarily having it single speed so i'd need a single speed cog.

That is a track racing gear you have. I have assumed, perhaps wrongly, that you use the bike for just riding around, maybe commuting. If that is the case I think even a 48x16 could be too high so if you go for the 48t it may still be too high and you would have to get another sprocket as well. Have you ever had a road bike and if so what gear felt right for cruising?
The chainring from Evans looks fine. I have just checked the price of a TA 1/8th chainring at Spa cycles and I was shocked to see they are £34!!

Hi, don't mean to contradict you greenjersey but 48x16 should be fine for a commuter as it's only 78.8 gear inches. Equivalent to 42x14. Or big front ring, 3rd fastest rear cog on a geared cross or hybrid bike. Should be ok from a standstill and still spinnable. But you're right it is all down to what Jonario feels comfortable riding / has experienced in the past.

Happy to be contradicted. My daughter recently bought a Foffa and that came with 46x16 which I felt was too high. Years ago I was on a steady training ride on flat roads and there were about sixteen riders in the bunch, I went up and down the line to check and everybody was on 42x16. OK in those days we only had ten gears to choose from but I felt there was a lesson there. I am sure Jonario will be happy with 48x16, for sure it will be a big improvement on what he has now.

That is a track racing gear you have. I have assumed, perhaps wrongly, that you use the bike for just riding around, maybe commuting. If that is the case I think even a 48x16 could be too high so if you go for the 48t it may still be too high and you would have to get another sprocket as well. Have you ever had a road bike and if so what gear felt right for cruising?
The chainring from Evans looks fine. I have just checked the price of a TA 1/8th chainring at Spa cycles and I was shocked to see they are £34!!

Yeah, it's pretty much for commuting. I have current fixed gear bike with me, I have to check the ratio 2morrow, although I do vividly remember counting to 48 for the front chain ring. On that bike, I kinda struggle going up hills. So should I consider a 48/18?

Oh and even though it's a track gear with 48t it'll still do the same job as a non track gear with 48t right?

Assuming that your transmission is in good nick I can see little point in changing both your chainring and sprocket so if you stick with the current 16 teeth I reckon you want a chainring between 42 and 46 depending on if you like to push or spin, and your route of course. Check the gear on your other bike ie teeth front and rear then come back and I will tell you what chainring would give you the same gear with a 16 tooth sprocket.

Assuming that your transmission is in good nick I can see little point in changing both your chainring and sprocket so if you stick with the current 16 teeth I reckon you want a chainring between 42 and 46 depending on if you like to push or spin, and your route of course. Check the gear on your other bike ie teeth front and rear then come back and I will tell you what chainring would give you the same gear with a 16 tooth sprocket.

I checked what push and spinning mean't on the that sheldon brown website. I usually push... But apparently that causes knee damage, so i'll probably change to spinning (i.e. starting slowly... right?).

Spinning refers to applying pressure for the full rotation of the cranks, rather than just pushing down (honking) on the down stroke. Usually implies a faster cadence (spin of the cranks).

One steep muthafugga of a learning curve you're on!

Spinning refers to applying pressure for the full rotation of the cranks, rather than just pushing down (honking) on the down stroke. Usually implies a faster cadence (spin of the cranks).

One steep muthafugga of a learning curve you're on!

I know, I know. It's gradually getting better...

Does the brand actually matter? As I said, I have a miche crankset but I want to replace the chain ring, the miche chainring is £35 and the token is £24 which one should I go for?

As AndyP said above; if they are the same bcd and same bolt number they'll fit and do the same job. It's just a question of you wanting one brand or the other / or budget.

A chainring's a component that won't need replacing often if at all so choose the one you want to live with. If you're going to commute on this bike you'll save more that 9 pounds in the first couple of days alone. So maybe look at it that way?...

Happy to be contradicted. My daughter recently bought a Foffa and that came with 46x16 which I felt was too high. Years ago I was on a steady training ride on flat roads and there were about sixteen riders in the bunch, I went up and down the line to check and everybody was on 42x16. OK in those days we only had ten gears to choose from but I felt there was a lesson there. I am sure Jonario will be happy with 48x16, for sure it will be a big improvement on what he has now.

I've just checked my old bike and it has a 46/18 ratio, so an 48/16 is out of the question lol.
You reckon I should down grade to 46/19? or 44/18 I'm using this to determine the difficulty btw...

Are you happy with the 46x18 (69") on your old bike? if so that is the gear to go for. As 790 said chainrings on single speed have a pretty easy life but there is no doubt that different brands can vary in hardness. Also they can vary in the degree of "roundness" Some nasty chainrings can cause the chain to run tight and slack because they are slightly elliptical. Impossible to tell in the shop of course.

Just seen this on the Velosolo website

***Token Track Chainset

A new track chainset from Token with traditional square taper fitting. Forged 7075 aluminium alloy arms with 144mm BCD (compatible with Token chainrings only). Complete with 1/8" 48t CNC 'Shuriken' chainring***
I am at a loss to understand how there can be compatability issues on a track chainset if the BCD is right but maybe it would be best to stick with Miche.

When I'm looking at chain rings, sometimes they don't give the BCD, is there another way of writing the BCD?

BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) is also referred to as PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter).

Are you happy with the 46x18 (69") on your old bike? if so that is the gear to go for. As 790 said chainrings on single speed have a pretty easy life but there is no doubt that different brands can vary in hardness. Also they can vary in the degree of "roundness" Some nasty chainrings can cause the chain to run tight and slack because they are slightly elliptical. Impossible to tell in the shop of course.

Just seen this on the Velosolo website

***Token Track Chainset

A new track chainset from Token with traditional square taper fitting. Forged 7075 aluminium alloy arms with 144mm BCD (compatible with Token chainrings only). Complete with 1/8" 48t CNC 'Shuriken' chainring***
I am at a loss to understand how there can be compatability issues on a track chainset if the BCD is right but maybe it would be best to stick with Miche.

I'm not comfortable with my current ratio of 46/18, It does become abit of a struggle when I try to stop but I suspect that happens with all fixed gears, I do want to downgrade defiantly but I don't know to what. Does that mean that token is only compatible with the token arms?