Best track nuts

.... after every three or four months for the last few years replacing track nuts that become compressed/squashed/smooth from tightening and tightening ... to stop my rear wheel slowly slipping too much, I thought I would write to see if anyone has a suggestion for a super nut that might only need replacing every 6 months :)

I have horizontal drops, so chain tugs are not an option.

Grateful for any thoughts ...

Dura Ace

next question

Thank you, I have not tried these, you have and they work well?

They are stainless steel so in theory even more maleable than those I have been trying?

dmr chaintugs

these should work with horizontal
dropouts

Cashews.. every time

Thank you, I have not tried these, you have and they work well?

They are stainless steel so in theory even more maleable than those I have been trying?

Stainless steel is substantially less malleable than cromo or whatever. It is, however, more susceptible to seizing when over tightened. Stainless actually forms tiny spot welds from the friction of nut on washer. Just keep em greased and they'll be grand.

Thank you, I have not tried these, you have and they work well?

They are stainless steel so in theory even more maleable than those I have been trying?

Stainless steel is tougher than regular steel, common misconception.

Is it common? I thought everyone knew stainless was rock'ard.

I didn't until I came here, when I was younger I asked why they didn't make bikes out of stainless steel, I was told "stainless steel is softer than regular steel, but they can use it for cutlery because it doesn't have to be strong - look how easily you can bend a spoon!"

Yeap. Wrong, wrong, wrong.

Best track nuts....Royce. Cliff would probably charge an arm and a leg for some, though they are a thing of beauty.

I didn't until I came here, when I was younger I asked why they didn't make bikes out of stainless steel, I was told "stainless steel is softer than regular steel, but they can use it for cutlery because it doesn't have to be strong - look how easily you can bend a spoon!"

Yeap. Wrong, wrong, wrong.

Actually not that wrong, the typical yield strength of stainless steel can be lower than typical non stainless, though, tensile strength obvs doesn't equate to surface hardness.

Thank you, I have not tried these, you have and they work well?

They are stainless steel so in theory even more maleable than those I have been trying?

Hmm- are you sure? If so, seems like a weird material choice (for a part which is never designed to see water), but they are top notch, regardless of what material is used it's a great stainless or more likely a good alloy steel.

DUMB QUESTION

Do you actually need chain tugs on horizontal DO's...

Dear all, very many thanks - really helpful, and those chain tugs look as though they really could work without adding further exciting adventures to the slipping axles :). Much appreciated really, I did not expect so much quality assistance.

Hidden deep within the piss taking this place is all about quality assistance.

The whole stainless vs plain steel thing is all a bit of a misnomer, as the high chromium content (>11%) has less to do with the tensile strength and hardness than the carbon content and quantities of other alloying elements present. Hence 440c stainless is harder and tougher than 1020 mild steel when treated right, but 01 carbon steel is harder and tougher than A2.

Dura ace 4evz

Oh and ditch the adjustable spanner you are clearly using and get a nice box wrench...

Dura Ace for sure. I upgrade my formula/novatec type hubs with them

might be silly question but if it just says track nuts will they deffo fit 15mm?

I asked my LBS the same question a while back. He sold me a couple of stainless m10 flanged nuts and separate washers. I thought it would slip more as the washers are flat where track nuts usually have some sort of teeth, but it seems to work better. Better than the cheap chrome plated track nuts that i've broken anyway. This was on horizontal dropouts also.

dura ace are non serrated/flat too

why is there the extra bit on some track nuts what exactly does that do

paging mdcc tester come in tester

it stops the track ends from being damaged as the nuts get tightened against the built in washer rather than turning directly against the track ends

on a similar tip, is it better to be a couple of mm under or over the OLN for rear wheel? i'm a couple under and worried if i crank up the pressure on the nuts it's going to pop :)