How long does rattle-can paint really take to dry?

Painted some carbon forks about a week ago, good prep, lots of layers, lacquer on top. But how long does it really take to dry hard properly? I just get the feeling (not that I'm about to) that if I stuck a thumb nail into the surface it would dent. Any idea from personal experience? Ta.

It takes a long time - but not as long as it takes to look any good...

You'd be surprised, this looks good but then like most things in life it's all about the preparation.

You put paint on plastic. Good luck with that.

^Errr, no I painted a surface that was already lacquered, all I had to do was prep the lacquer carefully with the right grade wet 'n' dry.

Touch dry in an hour or so usually (dependent on paint used).

Cured / proper dry in 3 or 4 weeks.

J
I'm taking the piss. Steal is reel and all that.

I'm actually interested, and was doing a subtle piss-take bump, as I'm about to try and paint something myself, never tried before.

Yeh, I kind of guessed after posting lol. It's turned out well (well I'm pleased at least) but you do have to be patient. See what you think Skullster. And Mankind is doomed thanks for that I'll hold off for another 3 weeks before bolting everything together :)

Leaving it out in the sun/warm window will help. They look good - it's entirely possible to do a professional-quality finish with rattlecans, so long as you do proper prep and a whole lot of wetsanding afterwards. Get some p2000 on those forks followed by some G3 compound and they'll shine!

Lae: What is wetsanding? Water and fine wet n dry? Do I use water in between each layer: 2 primer, 2 paint, 2 laquer?

Just to add, I tried a few different brands of paint and the stuff that definitely worked the best for me was plasti-kote Fast Dry Enamel. Not the cheapest but def the best finish.

Lae: What is wetsanding? Water and fine wet n dry? Do I use water in between each layer: 2 primer, 2 paint, 2 laquer?

Yes, wetsanding is very fine wetndry paper with water (water with a little drop of washing up liquid is best). You do it on the final topcoat/lacquer to remove the little 'bobbles' of paint that you get from the spray (expensive guns have a better spray pattern so need less sanding... rattlecans give the worst finish so need the most sanding). You need to use a sanding block (a stiff sponge works well because it wraps around the tubes of the bicycle) otherwise you'll get ripples in the paint.

You don't need to wetsand between each layer, but it is a good idea to do so, because it ensures that the paint is flat and has no high spots or low spots (which will show up as little reflections when the topcoat is polished). Wetsanding between coats can be done with something like 800 grit - higher grits are only needed when finishing the topcoat to a high-gloss finish. Be careful not to sand through edges (like lugs) - putting some painter's tape over them when wetsanding the tubes will prevent this.

Some kinds of paint require keying between coats - that is different from wetsanding in that its purpose is to provide a rougher surface onto which the next layer can adhere. Some paints do not require keying between coats so long as the next coat is applied within a set time period (for most cellulose or acrylic rattlecans this period is about half an hour or so).

be very careful with wetsanding it still comes off quick!

bang em in your airing cupboard or in the vacinity of a radiator.

radiator/ stove/ aga/ airing cupboard, during summer those are going to be off surely? In winter it took my frame/ forks around 10-14days to properly harden 2primer, 3paint, 2lacquar of plasticoat rattle can stuff.
Finish was good enough, probably equal to that of lower end OTP bikes, but not as tough as I had imagined. The colour+lacquer were brilliantly adhered to each other, but not so well to the primer.

Bumpigs - in my enthusiasm for an extra thick layer I've applied slightly too much lacquer and my beautiful forks now look jaundiced. Think I'll have to give them another slight rub then a coat of white again then another couple of coats of lacquer. Le sigh...

When I painted my forks (not got round to the fame yet, bike to much fun being ridden) I left them for about 4 days in the sun and house at night, it chipped where the quick realise mechanism goes, but so do a lot of bikes.....

My biggest trouble was the dreaded orange peel, but plenty of tcut and elbow grease got rid of that. 1 point though, when you polish them the first few times use a different coloured cloth then you'll be able to see if any paint is coming off

Are you still supposed to sand it down if you want a matte finish to a silver rattle can paint job?

Sanding between coats improves the quality of the finish.
Basecoat without a lacquer coat will look matt but will not be as durable.
Matt lacquer is the way to achieve this.

Automotive 2K lacquer is available in cans now...but you 'need to know what you're doing' if it's a proper a 2K formulation.

I generally stick any paint jobs next to the radiator for a few days. When its well cooked I give it about 4 coats of clear and do the same again. I know a few paint shops around here who would stick a frame in with wheels or a car in their oven for free.

Worth a try asking, this should give even rattle finish a pretty tough skin.

In the heat of summer you can to totally dry often in under a day.