Velocity A23 for 110kg track cyclist?

would these rims be stiff enough or flex under my weight? 32h front, 36h rear, both 3cross, sapim race (double butted), generic high flange hubs

I could also use 24mm wide DT Swiss treking rims with 24mm tyres, theres a disc brake rim that weighs 470g, anyone gone this route before?

Should be fine, ive seen less subtantial stuff on tandems/heavily loaded work bikes. But why not go for a slightly deeper rim?

Ive found DT swiss RR 1.1 to be extremely stiff, but you could go for rr 1.2 as they are deeper.

Oh, a tip regarding tyres. Go for fatter ones for urban use definetely. 28c

I'm around same size and I've ridden 36/36 CXP33/DA7600, 24/28 Cane Creek Volos tubs (Velocity rims) and never noticed any flex or difference between them on track.

Ride 36/36 Phils/CXP33 commuting and 32/32 DA/open pro on road bike with silly low spoke RS80s for special and still have never got brakes to rub which 70kg powerhouses claim to be able to do regularly in wheel tests.

Good build with high, even spoke tension should be fine

You can get pretty fast on the A23 (pretty flat for most of the way), but I'm not sure I could calculate your velocity. You might get faster if you lost weight.

^ It's an evening for reading threads carefully.

cant go much deeper as its an outdoor track, just want light,strong and stiff, but with the advantages of 23mm width rim and tyre match.

the charge dish wheel set is made by alex rims, its a 30mm rim, 23mm wide and 50g less than rigida dp18, 40 dollars but from USA

I currently ride/commute on CXP12 rims, like the CXP33 but no braking surface and ligthter. I cant find anymore in 36h. hit some nasty potholes with them and they held up well.

I suppose any light rim will be strong when built with a high flange hub in 36h?

dont think Ill be lossing any weight! just started power/olympic lifting at the gym after a long break, I gain muscle farily easy, Ill lean out maybe, also 6ft 3 so it fits on my frame nicely

ye I commute on 28c tyres, they still feel fast. the r1.1 and 1.2 are rated for 100kg max, DT has a treking rim rated for 130kg rider, I know the 1.1 wont fall apart but will prob flex a little during a sprint, I shouldt worry too much but just want to make the best choice

by the way its only for outdoor velodrome use, I live 1.5km from the track

ye I commute on 28c tyres, they still feel fast. the r1.1 and 1.2 are rated for 100kg max, DT has a treking rim rated for 130kg rider, I know the 1.1 wont fall apart but will prob flex a little during a sprint, I shouldt worry too much but just want to make the best choice

by the way its only for outdoor velodrome use, I live 1.5km from the track

Oh right! I thought you were a track cyclist wanting wheels for the road.
I have mavic CXP33 on my road bike, and have built a couple wheels using shallower mavic rims and had some mavic touring rims on my bike. My DT RR 1.1, I built for my street fixed felt much much stiffer than the rest by far. Was dead easy to build up with high tension as the rim was so solid. Never needed truing since ( 3 years ), and I my back wheel got hit by a car during that time too!

I didnt realise bike parts like this have such modest weight limits. It must be exagerations. Just think about all the beefy 70's & 80's sprinters on skinny steel frames and low profile single wall, non-heat treated rims. The biggest stresses would surely come from hitting potholes at speed, thats what the "limitations" would be considering.

Anyone else using these rims?
Considering getting a set built up with CX Rays and Hope Pro 3 road hubs for a set of lightweight climbing wheels.... They will come in at around 1400/1450g, which isnt too shabby.

I've read nothing but good reviews about them. Apparently the wider rim gives an almost tubular like ride, with excellent cornering.

Also considering the IRD 30mm aero rims, which are slightly heavier, but also a fair bit deeper... Which may be slightly better for alpine descents?

Any opinions on the A23's?

Dubtap has some I believe - as does dandan from Grumps - both have said good things about them. Strong and light and you can run them at lower psi's than normal rims

I think my comments are in the "Road Wheels" thread but yes you can (actually you have to) run 15-20 PSI lower and a tyre that measures 24mm on an Open Pro is nearer 26mm on the A23. The profile is rounder with a profile less like a lightbulb because of the wider base.

My rear wheel was built like crap from the factory but since I rebuilt with Prolock nips I haven't had to touch it; nice and round and got lots of tension in it without any wobbles developing.

i have a23 32 holes on campagnolo record road hubs with revolution spokes front and non drive side and comp drive side.......amazing wheelset fairly light, adds a lot of comfort plus the handling is just amazing compared to a "normal" rim......have them on me urban bike with phil/goldtec hubs also revolution spokes......rock solid handle like dream

Thanks guys.... I will prolly be looking to go as low with the spke count as I can, I'm only 65kg, so rider weight won't really be an issue. Would like 20/24, but theHope hubs only go down to 28, so might go for a different hub option.

Actually, just looking at the Hope website, and noticed the Pro 3's aren't 11 speed compatible anyway.... So no Hope for me.

One of my issues with campag - lack of choice for wheels/hubs...

Currently building an A23 for fixed road riding, they're pretty light, defintely worth going for after experimenting with a 25mm rims and 25c tyres.

Thought about getting Mack hubs? you can customised your specification.

One of my issues with campag - lack of choice for wheels/hubs...

What you talking about Willis?

There is plenty of choice.

Hope hubs are only an issue because of their flange spacing and a slight dish on the 11S cassette, but Google says people have used spacers to push the cassette out a bit to give a bit of clearance.

25mm rims and 25c tyres.

.

Reasoning?

Exactly the same as hoops; tubular feel, as comfortable as a 28c, etc.

Downside is the lack of pinch puncture - it hit the rims this time.

Elaborate please, I dont understand why it would feel any better.

Lower pressure and larger contact patch with no weight penalty and less squirm from sidewall flexing

^ this, most especially the sidewall flexing, 'orrible feeling.

with the combination of wide rims and narrow tyres, it created a U shape rather than the traditional bulb shape, as it has been mentioned in this topic.

picture illustrated it perfectly;

unfortunately, if you hit a pothole you didn't notice at speed, this will happen despite tyres still remain inflated;

If I'm struggling in terms of tyre clearance in a fork, would using a wider rim like the A23 help? I don't really want to ride on anything less than 23 on the road and at the mo a 25 on a narrower rim just ain't spinnin' around...

Offset rear A23 rims and tubeless version spotted at Interbike