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• #2
This comes up alot. But there's no specific thread that I am aware of. Just separate threads for each component.
The biggest savings are to be had on the wheels.
Do you run rim brakes?
Do you want clincher/tubs?
How much do you weigh?Some uber lightweight rims, laced with the appropriate amount of CX-rays (or even revolutions if youre quite light), to a lightish track rear hub, and a weight weenie front road hub.
New ultimate stem,
extralite seatpost,
Modified lightweight road cranks.
saddle will depend on your botty shape, but no more tha 150g.
Chop some lightweigh drops into bullhorns.
Latex innertubes, and the lightest tyres you dare run.
lightweight MTN pedals.Basically the more money you spend the lighter you can go. Always considering your, weight, and how you intend to use the bike. As track componentry rarely comes in a weight weenie format. Look to used modified road parts as much as possible.
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• #3
Most likely clinchers, although the 'notubes' stuff looks interesting.
And I weigh in at 180 lbs, aboutish.
The wheels are, like you said, the most important part (at least when it comes to perceived weight), so I guess that is where most of the money should be spent.
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• #4
shouldn't the question be, what are you going to use the bike for? and will the expenditure on weight weenie components make the riding of the bike more enjoyable?
ride the bike more, worry about the weight of the bike less!
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• #5
ride the bike more, worry about the weight of the bike less!
I know, I know, but one can dream!
And I do have bikes that handle the more rough stuff.
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• #6
Go on a diet, you can loose more weight than the bike.
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• #7
not a dig, okay maybe a little one, but I find it hard to understand the obsession with how much a bike weighs, when from my limited cycling experience it makes little difference to how it rides on the everyday.
Obviously if the bike is for a specific purpose, then more power to you, but then why spend so much on a bike that is used so seldom? -
• #8
Go on a diet, you can loose more weight than the bike.
But it is also possible to go on a diet, and have a light bike.
I agree with CB. In that riding a bike with expensive, and possibly fragile parts, is not going to be that much fun. But if you can save weight through good choices, and basically dial the bikes stiffness and weight to suit your own weight and strength. Then its possible to build a really light fixed.
My commuter is so heavy I can barely lift it. My other bikes are half the weight (still based on steel frames so not weight weenie material), and make me feel like I'm flying in comparison.
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• #9
1+ on cornelius.
My example would be my Brooklyn Machine Work Gangsta, it's no light bike with it's 1000g fork, but it did not slow me down one iota.
I have Mavic Open Pro with normal hubs (rear condor track and front road), reasonably light with a small 44t chainring, skinny saddle and drop bar, the bike feel heavy to pick it up, but doesn't feel heavy at all when riding.
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• #10
Christ guys, I know I am acting stupid, but am I not allowed to even fantasize?
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• #11
The view seems to be that those that like light bikes ride them less, or somehow dont appreciate money as much as they should. Cant say I understand it.
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• #12
The view seems to be that those that like light bikes ride them less, or somehow dont appreciate money as much as they should. Cant say I understand it.
I am fully aware I could spend my money on something more important, but, you know, I like to, every now and then, allow myself some luxury. So I'm with you, here.
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• #13
My example would be my Brooklyn Machine Work Gangsta, it's no light bike with it's 1000g fork, but it did not slow me down one iota.
pffffffft!
Just one of my tyres on my winter bike weighs more than that, much more with the heavy grade inners I'm running.
Slows me down shite loads though.
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• #14
studded?
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• #15
I come from a family of waste not, want not, and I'm seriously not trying to piss on your parade skunkwork, but if I'm going to shell out big money on components then I want to get as much use out of them as possible, and for them to be as long lasting and durable as possible. Which is why fantasizing about making a bike as light as possible isn't high on my list of things to achieve.
Good luck with the lightweight thoughts, and heed furry's advice he knows of what he speaks.
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• #16
I am fully aware I could spend my money on something more important, but, you know, I like to, every now and then, allow myself some luxury. So I'm with you, here.
If you buy a 600 euro AX lightness stem. Then I'd raise an eyebrow, and question your priorities in life. But buying a 60 euro KCNC stem is just a case of picking a lightweight stem, because you like light bikes.
IMHO of course.
studded?
Studded, knobbly, and running at low PSI.
When I took the fixed out, with its lightweight veloflex+latex inner combo. It was like riding with a constant tail wind over silk carpet.
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• #17
Whatever you think about the rest of the bike, lighter wheels do make you go faster, it's basic physics innit.
I weighed the Fortezza Tri Comps I picked up last night for my Colnago and they were <190g. Then I weighed the inner tubes and they were 71g. That made me happy :)
I'd question how practical latex inners would be on a day to day ride though, they need pumping up a lot more. The risk is you get lazy, don't keep them hard and get pinch punctures, which results in more punctures despite their theoretically better puncture performance.
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• #18
Whatever you think about the rest of the bike, lighter wheels do make you go faster, it's basic physics innit.
I weighed the Fortezza Tri Comps I picked up last night for my Colnago and they were <190g. Then I weighed the inner tubes and they were 71g. That made me happy :)
I'd question how practical latex inners would be on a day to day ride though, they need pumping up a lot more. The risk is you get lazy, don't keep them hard and get pinch punctures, which results in more punctures despite their theoretically better puncture performance.
Gotcha.
Thanks, Fox.
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• #19
I come from a family of waste not, want not, and I'm seriously not trying to piss on your parade skunkwork, but if I'm going to shell out big money on components then I want to get as much use out of them as possible, and for them to be as long lasting and durable as possible. Which is why fantasizing about making a bike as light as possible isn't high on my list of things to achieve.
With you all the way CB.
Living where I do, and not having the buy/sell opertunities you londoners have. I never upgrade, as it means throwing away decent parts. This is why I put together my own bikes. So I can have the components I want first time around. The last time I had to modify the commuter, I sent the salvaged parts to Tommy on here. As I'd rather shell out for post then see them rot (Tommy of course offered to pay). That the only time I've replaced a working part (went from flat bars with thumb shifters to drops).
Still love light bikes though ;)
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• #20
Drill the water bottle and the pump.
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• #21
Be Bulimic.
The more you ride, the lighter you be.
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• #22
Scoble, would have been repped for blatant insensitivity, but yadda yadda more rep to others before I can rep you again
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• #23
Go on a diet, you can loose more weight than the bike.
Be Bulimic.
The more you ride, the lighter you be.
Yeah Ed, tell it like it is.
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• #24
Weight always seems to be the issue. I've just completed my build and have know idea what it weighs but catapulted myself off the lights quicker than i have ever before. Seriously surprising with a grin to match! Any fixie or ss should be light and responsive,
get your gearing to suit and good times! -
• #25
Gearing will probably make more of a difference than the weight of the bike.
When I take my weight, my bag (including 2 locks) a couple of extra pounds on my bike is actually fairly insignificant.
The engine generally strikes me as more important than the bike, and is cheaper for me to eat less food than to buy new parts.
I tend to look to longevity/durability, comfort then weight, aesthetics come way down the list
Probably done to death already, but what are the best components to get when aiming for a feathery fixed gear? The frame weighs 3 pounds (with headset cups and seat clamp) and the uncut carbon fork I have is 1.1 lbs.
Open Pros w/ low-flange hubs are, I believe, quite adequate, but what about cranks, tires, stem and others?
If there is an older thread, I'd be delighted if you'd point me to its direction.
And yes: I know there are more important things to consider, but would still like to know. Nothing better to do, at the moment.